1/4" Valve Haters---Read This

[funwithahoe]

There is also a good chance that the stops on the lever guide were not set properly from the factory. You will notice on the stops there are two 'steps', the one closer to the operator is for 1/4", the outer one moves the 3pt hitch at full speed. If you are pulling it against the inner stops and it doesn't move very slowly you need to loosen the little nut on the stops and move them closer until it does. When it is set properly you should be able to give the lever a quick 'bump' against the inner stops and it will only move a 1/4" at the lower link end. Also you can hold it against the inner stops and it will move slowly, or hold it against the outer portion of the stops and it will move quickly.

Vertical - Thanks for the advice - I looked at my B3200 and interesting enough the 3PH is attached the spring and nut device you described (to the right and behind the seat). Unfortunately, no matter what position the lever is in it never compresses the spring leaving me wondering if it is set up correctly. In fact, after looking at it I realized even if I tightend the double nuts the whole way it still would not compress the spring.

Any ideas??? Should there be a "sleave" on the rod??

 

[Verticaltrx]

Vertical - Thanks for the advice - I looked at my B3200 and interesting enough the 3PH is attached the spring and nut device you described (to the right and behind the seat). Unfortunately, no matter what position the lever is in it never compresses the spring leaving me wondering if it is set up correctly. In fact, after looking at it I realized even if I tightend the double nuts the whole way it still would not compress the spring.

Any ideas??? Should there be a "sleave" on the rod??

Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.

 

[funwithahoe]

Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.

Thank you.

 

[funwithahoe]

Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.

Just to confirm - We have to manually make it drop 1/4 inch? In other words we shouldn't expect to push it to that spot and have it drop 1/4 inch but a "bump" to that spot should do it.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Just to confirm - We have to manually make it drop 1/4 inch? In other words we shouldn't expect to push it to that spot and have it drop 1/4 inch but a "bump" to that spot should do it.

Assuming everything is adjusted right, if you just hold it in the 1/4" position it will continue to move just very slowly(either up or down). If you bump it against the stop it will move a 1/4" at the lift arm. If it's not set right bumping it against the stop will move the lift arms 1-2" or more.

 

[DiezNutz]

So... nobody really wanted to break it to the OP that he really does have a QIV?

 

[MW66]

I have the B3200 and I wish there was a speed in between the two. I've been running the rear tiller and once I have it lifted I can't use the full speed because I don't want to crash it right into the soil with the tines turning and the 1/4" is just so slow. However, I end up using the 1/4" and just wait for it to engage. I only use the full speed to lift implements and rarely ever to drop implements.

 

[milkman]

I have the B3200 and I wish there was a speed in between the two. I've been running the rear tiller and once I have it lifted I can't use the full speed because I don't want to crash it right into the soil with the tines turning and the 1/4" is just so slow. However, I end up using the 1/4" and just wait for it to engage. I only use the full speed to lift implements and rarely ever to drop implements.

I have a BX2200 and my tiller is the heaviest implement that I own, I can shove the down lever all the way and the tiller drops as slow as I want it to by adjusting the control knob below the seat, of course if I have the back blade on, I have to readjust the control knob.

 

[Giles]

So... nobody really wanted to break it to the OP that he really does have a QIV?

REALLY
I am 64 years old and I have owned, no less, then twenty tractors! I think I know how a tractor lift system works.
First--My post is intended to possibly help someone that dislikes the QI system. Read my post again:thumbsup:
Second--It makes no difference if I pull the leaver to me or away because there are NO stops, other then the adjustable ones that have only ONE STEP.
Idling, or wide open, the lift works the same. I can raise the implement slow or rapid, 1/16" or 2" depending on how fast I move the leaver.
If you think I have QI ---Good for You---I have no problem with that:laughing:

 

[Evil the Weasel]

Based on your description, you have the QI model. You can still be wrong even at age 64.