8N CArb problems

[webbeewood]

not real correct for an ammeter.

inline is what you want with an ammeter.. ie.. remove wire to coil, insert mete rin series.

in any case.. run a hot wire bypass from the battery directly to the coil, if this is a front mount.. then try it. if a side mount then check the wire from the coil to the distrib to make sure the feedthru insulator is not broken.

you can insert a test lamp in that hot wire and see if the lamp blinks.

if it blinks.. circuit is correct. if it never comes on, ckt is open.. if it never goes off, ckt is shorted.

post back.



soundguy

It's a front mount distributor. The battery is a positive ground, so do I run the wire from the + side or - side?

 

[Soundguy]

since the points go to ground.. which would you think?

negative is the 'hot' on a positive ground.


you don't get spark touching like polarities.. since positive is ground.. running positive to one side of the coil, then using the points to connect the other side of the coil to ground wouldn't do much

there's your kettering style breaker ignition 101 class.

soundguy

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

one day i went to use my fathers 8 N to go 100 yards it took from 9 am to 2pm nice I took every thing apart got it back to the shop finally later we found out what it was ----take the wire from the coil PULL IT out ---THE WIRE CONTRACTS FROM THE CURRENT GOING THREW it try it it cant hurt we put new ones on and would not work used a neighbors his worked and that was what it was the hole time :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

if you got the tractor to fire by pulling the coil wire partially out, you had weak spark or foule dplugs.. by pulling the wire partially out you added to spark gap and raised the KV potential of the spark needed to jump that gap. fouled plugs can frequently be made to fire that way.

way back when you could get a device called a spark intensifier.. it went inline with the plug wire.. it was merely an adjustable air gap.. raised the kv

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

since the points go to ground.. which would you think?

negative is the 'hot' on a positive ground.


you don't get spark touching like polarities.. since positive is ground.. running positive to one side of the coil, then using the points to connect the other side of the coil to ground wouldn't do much

there's your kettering style breaker ignition 101 class.

soundguy

Wow, you were up late last night, errr, this morning! I got the volt meter out, and I have juice to the coil, so I'm headed to town, to get the coil checked. I'm also going to get one of those little light sticks, to check for current. It's another boiling hot day here in southern Indiana, so I may wait until dark to start back on this old thing.

 

[Soundguy]

no need to head anywhere to check the coil.

you can check continuity of the primary.. shoud be about an ohm to an ohm and a half for 6v.. though consumer grade vom's are junk when it comes to measuring low range ohms. secondary should be 4k to 8k ohms.

if those check, then you need to see if the points are opening and closing.

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

no need to head anywhere to check the coil.

you can check continuity of the primary.. shoud be about an ohm to an ohm and a half for 6v.. though consumer grade vom's are junk when it comes to measuring low range ohms. secondary should be 4k to 8k ohms.

if those check, then you need to see if the points are opening and closing.

soundguy

OK, I replaced the coil, and still no spark. The rotor is turning, and the points are moving. I checked the current at the ignition switch, and I have no current when the key is on, or when I am cranking the engine. Bad switch? It's only a couple years old.

 

[Soundguy]

shouldn't have replaced the coil without doing the rest of the tests in the thread.. it's a waste of money.

back in post 16 I mentioned using a test lamp to see if you have power thru the switch to the coil and points, and to see what the lamp did.

in post 20 I told you to bypass the switch.. ie.. go straight from the battery to the coil primary.

those are free tests that cost nothing and take little time, but tell you ALOT!

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

shouldn't have replaced the coil without doing the rest of the tests in the thread.. it's a waste of money.

back in post 16 I mentioned using a test lamp to see if you have power thru the switch to the coil and points, and to see what the lamp did.

in post 20 I told you to bypass the switch.. ie.. go straight from the battery to the coil primary.

those are free tests that cost nothing and take little time, but tell you ALOT!

soundguy

Sorry I've been gone for a while, but it's hot down here in southern Indiana. I've been following our grandson's football games, and decided today is a good day to tackle the Ford again. Traced current down, as you suggested, and started cleaning connections as I went. I turned the key on, and gave it another try, and noticed a little smoke comming from the resister block. I happened to have a new one hanging on the wall, so I changed it. When I hit the key, the motor fired up right away, then died again. Doesn't this sound like a bad regulator? I unhooked the battery, before I burned the resister block up. Do you have any suggestions for the regulator? Change it? It's the last thing that's not new.

 

[Soundguy]

sure.. waste money..... change the voltage regulator.

IT HAS -ABSOLUTELY- ZERO ( 0 ) to do with the ignition..

you can cut the belt to the genny, and wire cut all the wires on the genny and regulator, then start that tractor up and drive away and not have an issue till the radiator gets hot due to no fan turning long before you have power issues with the ignition running on a hot battery.

resistors get hot.. they emit smoke especially when new, as oil flashes off of them.

You unhooked the battery to 'protect' the resistor? Why? have spare time to kill? Turning the KEY SWITCH off cuts power to the coil and resistor assuming you have it wired correctly.

the fact it started up tells you the electrics are working.. Ideally you would have checked spark at moment of stall.

usually when they start and stall it is a lack of fuel issue.

Now.. when you are ready to get this tractor running.. post a thread...

you can strip all the wires off of her, then wire up a couple feet of wire point to point for test purposes and get this straightened out as to whether it is spark or fuel. IE.. diagnose the issue instead of throw parts at it.. or 'guessing' about parts that don't have any bearing ont he situation.

when you are ready to troubleshoot it, let me know. I'll help any way I can.

A roll of black tape and a spool of 14awg wire a few feet long, and a terminal end set, AND a clean carb will make that tractor run assuming you have not changed the timing, have the fire order correct, it has minimum compression needed and a good battery. and the motor and distribuitor internals are within operating tolerances.

soundguy