8N CArb problems

[lilranch2001]

This is another "not so good day". 8N wouldn't start this morning, so I pulled the carb back off, (I'm getting really fast at this!) and took the screws out of the butterfly on the choke. There's a little flap door, that looks like it stays open when the choke is on, so I turned it over and put the carb back on. It fired a couple times, the gas started running out of the mouth of the carb. I pulled a spark plug, and it was dry. I put the plug back in, put my hand over the mouth of the carb and hit the button. It fired right up. I'm really puzzled! I'm checking websites to see how much the governor has to do with things, since while I was mowing in really tall grass, and it didn't seem to be working.

Thats why I got rid of my 8N, loved the tractor, just got tired of working on it everytime I needed to use it

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. wasn't the tractor make/models fault.. but rather the current and previous wrench turners... IE.. once you get it.. find the problems and fix it.. at that point it's as reliable as any other engine.

soundguy

 

[lilranch2001]

IMHO.. wasn't the tractor make/models fault.. but rather the current and previous wrench turners... IE.. once you get it.. find the problems and fix it.. at that point it's as reliable as any other engine.

soundguy

thats true, I had received it from my father in law, there was many years of neglect and I had gone through it all, but some of the things were to far gone, tank rust, engine needed overhauled and I just got tired of the money and time I was spending on it

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. reliability is directly related to 2 things. 1, the condition you get it in, and 2, what you do with it at that point.

If you geat a beater that needs 2000$ of work to make it showroom new, or 1000$ of work to make it a dependable runner, or 150$ per year to make it somehting you have to tinker with alot.. well... there it is. no free lunches as they say.

Once I get one I take the time to fix it mechanically to the point that it is going to start relaibly when needed, and perform the duties I bought it for. If I get one and don't correct some of it's problems, and it then lets me down.. it's not the tractors fault.. it's mine. ( buying one in better condition is always a plus!! )

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

you are getting ahead of yourself and perhaps causing more problems.

the lil flap onn the choke is SUPOSED to open facing in to let SOME air in when you are on full choke.

do a comp test.

also.. did you replace the throttle butterfly packing? that can cause a vacume leak.. so can that multi-re-used carb gasket.

manually pull on the throttle rod tot he butterfly and see if the governor fights you and snatches it back.



soundguy[/QUOTE

I'm going to turn the flap back around on the choke, but how do I do a "comp" test? And where does the butterfly packing go on the throttle? I have a small piece of white felt in the kit, but the instructions didn't say anything about the felt or packing.
I checked the governor linkage, and it's set correct, according to the kit instructions. I have more problems now. While I was mowing, the 8N died in the middle of the field. It wouldn't fire at all, and when I pulled a spark plug, it had no spark. I think I may have a cheap set of points that are stuck together. Tonight was Saturday night, so I took my wife to town for some country dancing. (I know, I'm whipped) I'll tear it down in the morning, and see what"s going on.

 

[Soundguy]

the shaft that the throttle butterfly sets on should have seals on the ends of the shaft so that there is no vacume leaks.

if no spark, then points may have closed up.. test lampwill show you if it is an open or closed circuit... take primary wire off coil and put to test lamp clip.. then probe the dizzy post... bar engine over.. lamp should have distinct on / off cycles.

if it stays off, points are open or burned.. if it stays on, something is shorting points.. ie.. bad insulator.. shorted condensor, or closed up points.

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

I've been gone for a while, and now, I've got more problems, which may be part of the starting troubles from a week ago. My 8N died, while I was mowing, and has no spark. I'm trying to trace current, starting at the solenoid, but I'm geting nothing. Lot's of juice in the new battery, but nothing past the starter. Can I even test for current at the solenoid?

 

[Soundguy]

are you saying the starter won't turn over?

if so, you should have power to one side of the solenoid, and then also see power at the lil terminal. grounding that lil termoinal will make the solenoid engage.. that's what the thumb button does.. so make sure you have her out of gear and the clutch blocked while checking this.

post back.

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

are you saying the starter won't turn over?

if so, you should have power to one side of the solenoid, and then also see power at the lil terminal. grounding that lil termoinal will make the solenoid engage.. that's what the thumb button does.. so make sure you have her out of gear and the clutch blocked while checking this.

post back.

soundguy

Starter cranks fine, just no spark to the plugs. The way it died, I thought the points were stuck together, but they were fine. I unhooked the wire to the coil, and hit the button, but no juice. I used my amp meter, and put the red wire on the wire going to the coil, and the black grounded to the motor. The needle moved about 1/16 of an inch, so I may not be testing right.

 

[Soundguy]

not real correct for an ammeter.

inline is what you want with an ammeter.. ie.. remove wire to coil, insert mete rin series.

in any case.. run a hot wire bypass from the battery directly to the coil, if this is a front mount.. then try it. if a side mount then check the wire from the coil to the distrib to make sure the feedthru insulator is not broken.

you can insert a test lamp in that hot wire and see if the lamp blinks.

if it blinks.. circuit is correct. if it never comes on, ckt is open.. if it never goes off, ckt is shorted.

post back.

soundguy