8N CArb problems

[webbeewood]

not really.. go back and read thru the thread.

he's had a BUNCH of issues on this tractor.. not just the cap. as late as post 16, he didn't even have power thru the switch...

compound problems are always the hardest to solve.. you have to work thru one at a time without doing a shotgun parts change so that you can continue diagnosing it. this one was a realt tweaker.. but.. it's running.. and that's what counts..

soundguy

I may have not made myself clear on some of the parts I replaced. The distributor was only a year old. (Chinese made), and I checked it several times, for cracks or distortions. The plugs are carbon core, and about 2 years old. I had at least two problems, and at the same time, and that's why I asked for help from people more knowledgable than myself. I hope that's what these kind of threads are for, and I hope I'm not the only one that learned something from these posts. I've never considered a question "dumb", if I didn't know the answer. Anyway, thanks again. I mowed 3 acres yesterday, and went out and started it this morning. It fires immediately, and runs well. I'm happy! :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

for sure.. these threads are exactly about solving problems. i was merely commenting that there was likely more than one contribuitor to the issue here. IE.. a compound problem. By their very that are always hardest to track down. the carbon core wires are and were a part of the problem too. they are resistor wires. these old low voltage high voltage system usually perform poorly with resistor core / supressor wires. most people run metal core wires. however once you get a properly tuned system.. the carbon core will work, even if not ideal.

it was a good thread.. the problem got solved. I appologize if it sounded like I meant anything other than that.

soudnguy

 

[webbeewood]

for sure.. these threads are exactly about solving problems. i was merely commenting that there was likely more than one contribuitor to the issue here. IE.. a compound problem. By their very that are always hardest to track down. the carbon core wires are and were a part of the problem too. they are resistor wires. these old low voltage high voltage system usually perform poorly with resistor core / supressor wires. most people run metal core wires. however once you get a properly tuned system.. the carbon core will work, even if not ideal.

it was a good thread.. the problem got solved. I appologize if it sounded like I meant anything other than that.

soudnguy

As a "follow up", I wanted you to know that my 8N is still running like a watch. I've mowed anout 7 acres total now, and all my trails back in my 90 acres of woods. I have one last question for you Soundguy, and that is about the oil for an oil change. I have always used non-detergent 30 weight oil, replaced the filter, and pulled the big plug from the oil pan, and cleaned all the gunk out of it, and added a lead substitute to the gas. I was reading another vintage tractor site, and this guy says it's OK to use SAE or detergent oil, and he doesn't add additives to the gas. I've always been told the valves will burn if I don't use the additive. Have I been doing things wrong all these years?

 

[lilranch2001]

As a "follow up", I wanted you to know that my 8N is still running like a watch. I've mowed anout 7 acres total now, and all my trails back in my 90 acres of woods. I have one last question for you Soundguy, and that is about the oil for an oil change. I have always used non-detergent 30 weight oil, replaced the filter, and pulled the big plug from the oil pan, and cleaned all the gunk out of it, and added a lead substitute to the gas. I was reading another vintage tractor site, and this guy says it's OK to use SAE or detergent oil, and he doesn't add additives to the gas. I've always been told the valves will burn if I don't use the additive. Have I been doing things wrong all these years?

I bought whatever oil Ford Dealer sold me for my 8N, and I never used a lead substitute in my old 8N, and I probably put 800 hours on her in 6 -7 years

 

[Soundguy]

ALL N's left the factory with hard exhaust valve seats.. and all N's except the 2n war models left with hard intake seats.. lead addative for your gas is just money lining some snake oil salesmans pocket.

besides.. tetra ethyl lead was a octane enhancer.. ie.. reduced spark knock or ping... wasn't specifically added as a valve lube.

oil.. I'd use a detergent oil based on my climate and temp range.

if your N has good pressure a 15w40 oil would be great.. if slightly lower op.. then a 20w50. if in desert areas.. perhaps a straight 40.. etc.. etc.

if it's been on ND 30 for years, then I'd buy a can of MMO and add some tot he oil prior to my oil change, run an hour, then drain oil and refill with HD.. change filter.

buy a couple of the 3.99 fram C3 filters. then change the filter again in about 5 hours... then you should be good to go.

soundguy

 

[webbeewood]

ALL N's left the factory with hard exhaust valve seats.. and all N's except the 2n war models left with hard intake seats.. lead addative for your gas is just money lining some snake oil salesmans pocket.

besides.. tetra ethyl lead was a octane enhancer.. ie.. reduced spark knock or ping... wasn't specifically added as a valve lube.

oil.. I'd use a detergent oil based on my climate and temp range.

if your N has good pressure a 15w40 oil would be great.. if slightly lower op.. then a 20w50. if in desert areas.. perhaps a straight 40.. etc.. etc.

if it's been on ND 30 for years, then I'd buy a can of MMO and add some tot he oil prior to my oil change, run an hour, then drain oil and refill with HD.. change filter.

buy a couple of the 3.99 fram C3 filters. then change the filter again in about 5 hours... then you should be good to go.

soundguy

Thanks for the info, I have some MMO, and almost out of lead additive. The Fram filters are less expensive than the NAPA filters I've been buying, @ $12.95. Good information!

 

[Soundguy]

fram c3 is 3.99 at tsc

the slightly better c3p is 4.99

the napa 1010g is only 6$ at my local napa

any of these will cross:

Ford Part Number: CPN 6371B 9N-18649, 9N-6714, 9N-2731
Fram C3, C3-P
NAPA Gold 1010
Motorcraft FL 144
Balidwin P40
Big A 92010
Bosch 72127
Carquest 85010
Fleetguard LF574
Wix 51010
Purolater L20110 or L20701
Fleetrite LFR-8574
Texaco HSO-100
Unocal OF 1010
White 10575
Hastings Mighty M3LF-130
Luber-Finer P3