66 MF 135 clutch

[Mike476]

Splitting it shouldn't be too bad. Doing it outside means I'll wait until I have all the parts before starting. I've taken a good look at where I need to place shoring, I'll ask my neighbour to bring over his 1528 to help separate it when I'm ready. Looks like most of the weight is at the front end so I'll shore that and move the rear when the time comes.

 

[flusher]

Splitting it shouldn't be too bad. Doing it outside means I'll wait until I have all the parts before starting. I've taken a good look at where I need to place shoring, I'll ask my neighbour to bring over his 1528 to help separate it when I'm ready. Looks like most of the weight is at the front end so I'll shore that and move the rear when the time comes.

Regarding the front end--you need to use wood blocking and wedges between the front axles and the frame that the axles are attached to to keep the tractor from rocking.

 

[Mike476]

Absolutely, was hoping to be able to fabricate a frame to suspend it (steel)rather than shore it but it just isn't practical.

 

[banjodunn]

Gday as stated do not forget to wedge the front axle, roll the eng away from the back end as it is MUCH easier when you are putting it back together (believe me i have been doing it for the last 24+ years) when you roll the back end the g/box input shaft tends to turn and make it hard to line up. Make an aligning tool out of a large piece of dowel rod. Good luck with it :thumbsup:


Jon

 

[Mike476]

Excellent point Jon, wasn't thinking that would be a problem but good to hear from someone with experience. I do know about the front axle and had planned to wedge it, after giving up on suspending it from two points on either side of the tractor.

For alignment I am having brass bullets made up for the bolts by a machinist friend to help with final fit / alignment, don't want to damage any cast.

Thanks for the post, great info.

 

[banjodunn]

Gday the brass bullets you are talking about are to screw into the trans housing to make alignment easier i assume?? I have always made some guide studs up out of some bolts that are 3 - 4" longer than the orig bolts and just cut the head off them then i cut a slot in them to take a flat blade screwdriver in case they are a bit tight to undo, have been doing this for years so now have a large box full of them they come in very handy at times and can be made in minutes in the w/shop


Jon

 

[Mike476]

Exactly Jon, your method works as well of course. I have a set that I had made up for the intake maniflod on an Intrepid we used to own but are nowhere near the size I need. I had the top end off the 3.3 three times because it wasn't getting oil to the top of the motor, come to find out from chrysler that there is a problem with how they drilled the block for oil journals, any small piece of debris would clog it and stop the passage of oil to the top end. He told me that after selling me two sets of lifters / rocker arms / rails and an oil pump rebuild kit of course. Fix was to have the bowl of the rocker arms that the lift rods sit in drilled to allow more oil to the top end, had to take a new set to a local machinist, surprising how hard they are. It worked though, put another 60K on the car before trading it in.

Anyway, the ends are machined to allow the use of a socket or ratcet wrench when removing. The brass is pretty soft though and they do get damaged. Over time they will get to the point where I can't use either to remove them, that's when the switch to vice grips will occur or like you I'll cut slots in the end to use when removing.

For through bolts (nut and bolt) the other form of bullets I've used thread onto the bolt and are tapered like a bullet to help with alignment when installing, used more for hinge points or any bearing surface that has bushings, both save possible damage and really help speed up a job like this.

Mike