Power Steering Help

   / Power Steering Help #11  
How do you test the relief valve ? What pressure do you set it at ?
Who said anything about testing? I merely mentioned adjusting it. But if there's a way to set a specific relief pressure, I've never found it. Never claimed to either.
Here's what I did on my KM454:
1. once overheated fluid cause the steering to bind
2. remove the hex cover adjacent to the output port
3. adjust whichever direction makes the steering wheel turn easier.
In the spirit of full disclosure, that was on a FeiDong engine (FD395). Since I've never had cause to do this on my TS354C (Y485 engine), perhaps I am incorrect in assuming they adjust similarly.

//greg//
 
   / Power Steering Help
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If it helps any. My engine is the TY395.
 
   / Power Steering Help #13  
If it helps any. My engine is the TY395.
Sorry, can't help. I have no idea of how FD395 mechanicals compare to the TY395. They come from different manufacturers. All you can do it try. If removing the hex cap adjacent to the output line (the smaller one) reveals an adjustment port, you're in business. If not, all I can say is that I tried.

//greg//
 
   / Power Steering Help
  • Thread Starter
#14  
The weird thing is I can turn left usually without problem. I can then turn back to the right from all the way left and make it to where the wheels are back straight before it gets hard. When I was on it last I noticed too that if I hit something with one of the wheels that the steering wheel would turn too.
 
   / Power Steering Help #15  
Every bit of extra info helps, thanks. Cylinder bypass is typically bi-directional. So your appended description helps keep cylinder bypass low on my list of possible causes. Being a 2003 model, I'm assuming your steering cylinder is up front (older ones were on the side). Inspect how it's fastened at both ends, with particular attention to the anchor end. It's not uncommon for folks to report cylinders coming loose on the 200 Series. A few have actually had the anchor bracket itself break loose. At any rate, a loose cylinder mount and/or bracket can cause binding at certain points of travel too.

//greg//
 
   / Power Steering Help
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Everything is tight. I'm not sure what to check next. What would be the best way to test the power steering pump to make sure that it's working correctly? I'm really new to tractors. This is my first one. I obviously am learning as I go.
 
   / Power Steering Help
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I'd also like to mention that my tractor is the equivalent of a jinma 304.
 
   / Power Steering Help #18  
Call Tommy at Affordable. He'll be able to help. The first indication you have bad seals in the cylinder is that you are able to turn the wheel to the one side continuously. That was what my 2003 Farm Pro 2420 did when the seals were bad. A repair kit fixed it right up.

Good luck,
Steve
 
   / Power Steering Help
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Just ordered a steering cylinder kit, steering cylinder dust boot and a set of manuals since I only had the tractor parts manual. I ordered my parts from Affordable Tractor Sales. Homier charges a whole lot more for the manuals. Just the tractor operations manual itself they are charging like $40. The set of three from Affordable Tractor Sales was only $35. I hope the kit for the steering cylinder works. I figure if that doesn't solve it then It was only $25 spent versus replacing the other more expensive parts. I'll let everbody know how things go. I've never rebuilt a hydraulic steering cylinder before. Does anyone have some references on how to rebuilt the steering cylinder?

Thanks,

Jimmy
 
   / Power Steering Help #20  
Jimmy,

I think you'll find that rebuilding the cylinder will do the job for you. When you go to do that, I suggest that you have your digital camera next to you so you can take pictures of the piston and seal assemblies ans you open up the cylinder. That will give you a reference for putting the new stuff in in the correct order. (Guess how I learned this...)

The only real difficulty I've ever had rebuilding a cylinder is sometimes getting the piston back in without damaging the seals. What has worked for me is to use a small piston ring compressor to compress the seals just enough to slip in the cylinder. That and plenty of hydraulic fluid to lube it first.

It's not really too complex and, if you run into problems, you can always call Tommy at his Houston office and he'll walk you through it.

I need to do the steering cylinder on my 304, too. It still works well enough to use it so I haven't made it a priority - too many other fires to stamp out first...

Rich
 
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