RTV 1100 Turbo

[SpudHauler]

joeshmoe_44883

Did you try running with no air filter and or intake piping?

Just thinking that if the intake system was restrictive, an engine which is often called an air pump because it hauls air in and pushes it back out, this would have a large effect on the output. Meaning less air in, less air out.

Just a test that might explain why the low 1.5psi.

Be extra careful if you do try this test as the intake will digest anything close to it. And that can lead to one sick engine.

 

[Dargo]

I bought the complete kit, turbo and all, a year or so ago for my RTV1100. I'd say the entire installation took me less than 2 hours; and that was taking my time and making sure I did everything exact per the instructions.

I'm completely happy with the results. I didn't expect to pick up any top end speed and I didn't. Well, maybe a couple mph, but I attribute that to the engine simply not being able to hold the speed before. I was one of the first to get an RTV1100 and I bet it didn't get 15 hours on it in the first year. My wife and kids simply hated it due to the sudden jerk stop when you let off the throttle. The coast valve changed that. Then they didn't know what gear to pick. The turbo changed that. Unless there are steep trails involved or towing something, it's just put it in "H" and away you go. It gets used a lot more now.

I managed to put my Grasshopper mower in the lake again this weekend (not exactly in the lake, but stuck where it would have gone in if I didn't stop). I discovered that the reverse gear in the RTV1100 is geared too high. Turbo and all, locked in 4X4 with differential locked, it would not spin the tires nor pull the Grasshopper out (Grasshopper weighs about 1500 pounds with the front deck I have on it).

I could use the winch to pull it out or turn around and use "L" and it would pull it out, however, trying to just pull in reverse just resulted in grunt and some exhaust smoke.

 

[SpudHauler]

I wonder if you still need to adjust on the servo screw that Matt had talked about in previous posts. I've backed mine out about 2 turns, but will be experimenting more to find the sweet spot. At one point I went too far out and lost ground. Each machine he said is different so yours may need more or less adjusting.

 

[Dargo]

I wonder if you still need to adjust on the servo screw that Matt had talked about in previous posts. I've backed mine out about 2 turns, but will be experimenting more to find the sweet spot. At one point I went too far out and lost ground. Each machine he said is different so yours may need more or less adjusting.

I had the guy who rebuilds all of those hydro drives in this area for a living do all the adjustments for me on a weekend. He spent 2 weeks at the Kubota plant in GA learning all about the drive systems and can build them in his sleep. He laughed at me when I asked about backing off the throttle to let the 2nd pump kick in. All the talk on this board about another pump is all a crock. There is no such thing. You're simply trying to back off the hydro pulling enough to get engine RPMs up. He laughed and laughed at me asking about that special 2nd pump!

As I mentioned somewhere else here, my RTV1100 will spin both back tires on concrete for about 5-6' with the rear diff locked taking off. I think it's adjusted about as good as it's going to get. I think they just put too tall of a reverse gear in them. He made up a deal out of different parts where you can control the engine RPM by hand just like in a tractor for some guys who do a lot of heavier trail riding. From what I'm told, if you have a turbo and the engine RPM's up to the rated max and then feather the hydro pedal it will turn the tires in reverse. I don't really need it that bad. At that point the driving and pulling power would be pretty well the same as a 30 hp Kubota tractor. I don't know what such a tractor would weigh, but I know Kubota has a nice advantage in not being too heavy in the SCUT sized tractors. Clearly I'm a person who would not be happy at all with a 20 hp SCUT that weighed 3000 pounds!

 

[SpudHauler]

If you look at this site, it is actually called an "assist motor".

kubota RTV

 

[Dargo]

If you look at this site, it is actually called an "assist motor".

kubota RTV

I think that is where the confusion comes from; there is no plumbing from the engine (only power source) to any additional motor to provide power. Usually in hydraulic circuits, an assist motor is a fancy name for a setup that prevents the hydraulic motor from losing prime and cavitating. I think the misconception is that it is a separate motor with separate plumbing that provides additional power; which it isn't. If you notice, the foot on the throttle never lets off in order to get the "assist motor" to activate. It looks more like what a throttle plate would be on an older Cummins engine. You could get all sorts of different angles on the throttle plates that would have different affects on how the truck would react to throttle positions. The "assist motor" seems to only direct more flow to the high pressure cut off valve rather than act as any sort of 'motor'. I would call it more of a valve, but doing so probably wouldn't help sell more RTVs.

 

[SpudHauler]

Dargo,
Do you have the part number for the oil return line fitting you used to plumb your turbo?

 

[Bigkrank]

May be time to get some real power out of it

 

[SpudHauler]

Is that your 100hp D1105 motor?

 

[Dargo]

Dargo,
Do you have the part number for the oil return line fitting you used to plumb your turbo?

Not off hand. The supply is a braided stainless covered line but I believe the return is just a rubber line; I think. The engine seems already plumbed for a turbo. When I bought the kit, installation was a breeze. Most time was spent adjusting the hydro drive. I can look, but I can't say for sure if I recall seeing any part number on that line.