Fireplace advice, Part 2

   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #32  
We have a Hearthstone Heritage. This is our primary heat source for our cottage. (1400 Sq Ft) Does an excellent job. The structure has not been insulated properly, and we have stayed comfortable for days in below zero temps. We load it up, and can leave it for 8 - 10 hours. Wood is our fuel of choice. Only takes some muscle to process it. The Stove has two main doors, front and side. The side door is very convienient to the load wood without opening the front of the stove. I would suggest a non-catalytic stove, due to maintenance and cost to replace. You can still get close to the catalytic efficiency. Craigslist is great. Hope you find what you are looking for.

Stove Details | Hearthstone Stoves
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2
  • Thread Starter
#33  
The hard part is over. I made a decision and bought the used Napolean 1400. It's a pedistal style with an ash pan in it. The guy bought it two years ago to heat his moble home in Wisconsin. When he moved here six months ago, he brought it with him. He loved it so much that he said he couldn't leave it behind. The house he bought has a soapstove stove in it already and his wife likes it better. He doesn't, but she made the decission.

It's in excellent condition, and to my eye, it's beautiful. I really like it and I'm looking forward to installing it in my house and burning some wood this winter.

I'm going to take out part of my wood floor and install tile. I'm going to leave the walls alone and mount it 12 inches away from the walls, which is what they recomend. I might even go more, but won't know until I do some measuring and thinking. I don't want to do anything on the walls. In the pictures that I've seen, I like this look the best.

I'm going to go with a straight pipe up into the ceiling and out the roof like you guys recomended. It came with an extendable, doule wall, black pipe that I wil use on the inside. I need to get the rest. Does anybody have a good online source?

My brother has a ranch with all sorts of massive oak trees that have droped branches that are a foot to two feet thick. He also has a 27 ton, Troy Bilt, log splitter that I'm going to use. I'll go split a couple cords at his place and be all set for winter. Since I don't have a clue how much wood I will need, I'm going to probably end up with too much, if there is such a thing.

16 inches sounds perfect. Thank you.

And thank you to everyone for your advice. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, and for sure, will post updates on the install. I have an idea that might turn out pretty nice, or be a disaster. The only way to know for sure is to give it a try.

Eddie
 

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   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #34  
looking forward to some pics
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #35  
just curious...does a stove like that have a way of using outside (combustion) air?
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #36  
A stone mason once warned me against drawing outside air for steel lined fireplace boxes.
He claimed that the outside air, which is generally humid will rot out the fire box.
He had to rebuild many firplaces due to that.
Makes sense to me.
He suggested better to crack open the closest window.
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #37  
Will look forward to pics as you get it installed. Oak will burn well and you can never have enough split wood. Ideally you should dry the wood for at least 6 months if not more. This helps it burn better and also less chance of creosote in the chimney. Just keep it under cover and it lasts for many years just waiting for your wood stove. :):)
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #38  
A stone mason once warned me against drawing outside air for steel lined fireplace boxes.
He claimed that the outside air, which is generally humid will rot out the fire box.
He had to rebuild many firplaces due to that.
Makes sense to me.
He suggested better to crack open the closest window.

Interesting...Although I would think that when outside air is drafting through the box when it's not in use would tend to be more damaging (has time to condense) than when the box is at working temperatures...seems like a cut off damper on the cumbustion air vent would prevent the drafting and condensation when the box is not in use??

We have a "pre-fab" fireplace with a masonry lined steel box that uses outside air for combustion and it is still in good shape after 30 years...there is a cut off for the air but I have never bothered to close it...
 
   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #39  
...Just keep it under cover and it lasts for many years just waiting for your wood stove...

I have found that is also best to keep it stacked off the ground if it is going to be stored for more than one season...to prevent worms and termites from eating it up...pallets work OK...
 
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   / Fireplace advice, Part 2 #40  
...Just keep it under cover and it lasts for many years just waiting for your wood stove...
I have found that is also best to keep it stacked off the ground if it is going to be stored for more than one season...to prevent worms and termites from eating it up...pallets work OK...

Mine has either plastic or old plastic tarps under it just for that reason. Pallets work well as you mentioned, I would still put plastic or tarp under the pallets as they will start to rot as well if the ground gets wet. I have about a 5 year supply and sure don't want it to start rotting.
 

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