Ford 1700 Hydraulic Pump

[old1500]

I threw that CNN thing in there just to trip you up. I don't think any of us will find much info on a tractor (or anything else for that matter) on CNN.

I work one evening a week and this is my "lucky" evening. I will pop that cap tomorrow. If you zero in on the 05B05 diagram.....at's what I got.

 

[JFS2295]

Today I made it down to the farm, started up the tractor and could not get the FEL or 3pt with brushhog to move. Dropped the hog and could get the lift arms to move up and down (slowly and without force), but nada on the FEL.


Changed the fluid/filter and hydraulics are working normal again. I was reminded that the tractor sat out in the rain for a week early summer and the fluid was white and cloudy with water contamination again. So I'll pickup a few more pails of fluid and another filter, go through another 134 washout and see how things go.

I wish I could figure out where this water inclusion is coming from. I guess I'll pull the covers another time and reseal.

 

[old1500]

This is from experience with an early Ford gas burner years ago. Check the boots over your shift-levers. A lot of water will drain right down in there when mother nature calls.

 

[JC-jetro]

Today I made it down to the farm, started up the tractor and could not get the FEL or 3pt with brushhog to move. Dropped the hog and could get the lift arms to move up and down (slowly and without force), but nada on the FEL.


Changed the fluid/filter and hydraulics are working normal again. I was reminded that the tractor sat out in the rain for a week early summer adn the fluid was white and cloudy with water contamination again. So I'll pickup a few more pails of fluid and another filter, go through another washout and see how things go.

I wish I could figure out where this water inclusion is coming from. I guess I'll pull the covers another time and reseal.

Jack,

got to figure out reason why you get the water in. The hyd pump is not designed to pump oil/water slurry. It will cause irreversible damage to the pump and that's a pricey problem. The hyd system including transmission and rear diffy reservoir are atmospheric by a capped vent hole. On 1700 it is right behind the seat on the lift cover. I'm wondering if somehow you have a bit of vacuum in the transmission and diffy area causing water entry. I wondered if loader cylinder going up and down is washing water in to the oil... I know you'd know quickly if you have a cylinder leak. keeping the tractor under the rain for sure is not helping either. A closed vent can also cause evaporation and re-condensation of same water in the hyd system. Since you got clean oil in there why don't ya start trial and error to narrow the cause by at least making sure you have a tarp cover on and vent hole is open at all time.

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

This is from experience with an early Ford gas burner years ago. Check the boots over your shift-levers. A lot of water will drain right down in there when mother nature calls.

Check the advice given here by old1500 first, as I have had the same "boot" problem with my 1700 when it sat outside all the time. The boots get old and stiff. Then the hole gets oval shape around the shaft and the bottom grip pressure seal comes loose and the water will poor in by running down the gear shifters. Replacing both boots is about a 5 min or less job and the boots are cheaper than transmission fluid by far. It fixed mine.:thumbsup:
Until you get new boots put a 5 gal bucket upside down over the 2 shifters and place a rock on top of the bucket.

 

[JFS2295]

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

I’ve had this tractor for 25 years now and 99% of the time when I’m not running it is under a shed. Once, maybe twice a year I hose it off. And every year I change the hydraulic fluid because it gets water in it. Not to this extent, but it’s white and milky.

I’m fully aware of the disastrous effects of water in oils, but good to bring it up for others who may read this. One thing I’ve found on this and other tractor forums is that the 17** seems to get a number of threads about milky 134. Don’t know why.

I’ve checked that vent behind the seat a couple of times. I’ve even thought of coming up with a different way of dealing with that, like a metal tube not unlike the venting of the motor itself. Draft tubes can be a good thing, especially with a little filter.

I’ve pulled to top gearcase covers and replaced gaskets. Years ago when I was trying to sort this out and had the tops off I tried spraying water onto the splitter shift lever, but no leakage from that. The main shift is on the column. Guess I really need to revisit everything again.

My ’52 A-C HD-9B dozer sits outside all the time and it never has any water intrusion issues. It’s got to be the blue paint.

 

[barbqranch]

I am offering this suggestion for finding the source of water from inexperience, so if anyone thinks it is a stupid idea, I won't be insulted, and you should definitely post.

I would rig some sort of fitting on the hydraulic filler such that I could use my air compressor to put about 1 or 2 psi of air in the system. Then I would either use the old broomstick stethoscope or look for bubbles when splashing water with a little soap on all the places I think water might get in.

 

[JFS2295]

That's really not a bad idea. It could be done by replacing the vent cap with a nipple and hose or an air quick connect.

 

[JC-jetro]

I am offering this suggestion for finding the source of water from inexperience, so if anyone thinks it is a stupid idea, I won't be insulted, and you should definitely post.

I would rig some sort of fitting on the hydraulic filler such that I could use my air compressor to put about 1 or 2 psi of air in the system. Then I would either use the old broomstick stethoscope or look for bubbles when splashing water with a little soap on all the places I think water might get in.

when one is working on finding a solution all options should be examined. Yout idea in general is sound as we always check for leakage specially air in our facility pneumatic control system. We also check for gas (natural) in our boiler system using a soap bubble. The issue here is that you will not be able to maintain any pressure. The transmission and rear diffy is at atmospheric pressure. Even putting compressed air thru vent ain't gonna do it. At the very least you would loose air right thru transmission input shaft in to clutch housing. The 4 wheel drive engagement handle, the shifter rod boot will leak like a sieve. although, not related does the OP gets water in the engine oil? I just wonder if water is entering thru rear thru PTO shaft or rear wheels axle. I wonder if he occasionally travels thru deep water.

JC,

 

[hgd1956]

Well, i put a new (used) pump on my 1700 and at least it will pick my heavy butt. I put a pressure gauge on where you said and can get about 1200 psi. I feel that I have leakage through my relief valve at this point. I have taken it apart and it seems to be pretty worn. Suggestions on getting my pressure up (and don't say saw palmetto). Thanks