Warranty void by adding hooks on FEL?

[Chilly807]

Two things come to mind:
You should only be using the loader functions of the joystick, not the bucket, until it's mounted.
You may have your loader hoses connected wrong (bucket might be moving instead of the loader frame members).

I can't see why the loader would be moving with the tractor stationary.

You may have to use the dump function to lock the loader on later though (Deere QA loaders that I'm familar with require the front end of the tractor off the ground to lock the latches...this is done by using the dump function of the bucket). But the loader frame should be mounted on the tractor before this is required.

If you have the tractor's or loader's operator manual, have it with you as you do this...go step by step following the procedure.

I don't know the exact procedure for mounting/dismounting New Holland loaders, but Kubota calls for use of both lift and dump cylinders. If I remember correctly, the lift function takes the load off the pins, the curl "floats" the arms out of the brackets.

Sean

 

[yooper1]

From the Manual:

REMOVING THE LOADER FROM THE TRACTOR:

1 - Locate the tractor and loader on firm level ground.

2 - Lower the bucket to the ground, stop the tractor engine, and set the brakes.

3 - Disconnect the rubber tie down strap that retains the hydraulic hoses to the loader side frame.

4 - Remove the pin and release the latch from each loader frame upright.

5 - Start the tractor engine and release the brakes. Activate the lift control lever to raise the side frame uprights from the mid mounting assembly

6 - Gradually activate the lift control lever. At the same time, back the tractor up slowly, allowing the loader to roll off of the front mounting bracket.

7 - Continue to back the tractor up slowly until the lift cylinders are fully extended and the loader's parking stand is resting on the ground.

8 - Engage the tractor brakes and stop the engine. Activate the control lever to relieve the pressure in both the bucket and lift circuits.

9 - Disconnect the quick couplers and install clean dust covers on all ends. Position the ends of the hoses with the couplers on the loader so they do not contact the ground.


This went almost perfectly.

 

[yooper1]

MOUNTING THE LOADER ON THE TRACTOR:

Reverse the removal procedure to mount the loader on the tractor.

1 - Slowly drive the tractor into the loader until the hoses reach from loader to the tractor. Engage the tractor brakes and turn off the engine.

2 - Check the couplers to make sure they are clean and then connect them by matching the color coded identification rings on the quick couplers.

3 - Restart the tractor engine, release the brakes, and slowly drive the tractor forward until the front mounting bracket tubes, contact the side frame channels.

4 - Gradually activate the lift control lever to retract the lift cylinders and roll the loader onto the front mounting bracket tubes.
(Here is where the whole loader started to slide forward on the ground for me. And as it slid, it appeared to be sliding off of the front mounting tubes and I assumed it might fall to the ground because the support leg was no longer extended straight up and down.)

5 - Continue rolling the loader onto the mounting bracket tubes while easing the tractor ahead.
(Here is where I had to move forward but the loader would slide a bit more and more.)

6 - When the side frame mounting hooks are fully engaged on the front mounting bracket tubes, and the side frame uprights are fully resting on the mid mounting assembly, (This is where I had to get off and physically shove the assy to the left to get both uprights to line up with tubes. I probably was not square to the loader due to chasing it across the lawn.) engage the tractor brakes and shut off the engine.

7 - Latch the rear frame upright clamps by rotating the hinge plate up against the mid mount tube, placing the T-bracket into the slot of the hinge plate while rotating the over-center latch handle towards the rear of the tractor until it is vertical. Insert the pin.

8 - Retain the hoses to the loader side frame with a rubber tie down strap.

9 - Start the engine and activate the control lever. If the loader does not operate as shown on the control decal , switch hoses at the couplers until it matches.


So, I was following the instructions step by step. it shows to inch forward and not stay in place. The sliding started as soon as step 4 and I did not want the loader to fall to the ground on the one end.

 

[RoyJackson]

From the Manual:

REMOVING THE LOADER FROM THE TRACTOR:

1 - Locate the tractor and loader on firm level ground.

2 - Lower the bucket to the ground, stop the tractor engine, and set the brakes.

3 - Disconnect the rubber tie down strap that retains the hydraulic hoses to the loader side frame.

4 - Remove the pin and release the latch from each loader frame upright.

5 - Start the tractor engine and release the brakes. Activate the lift control lever to raise the side frame uprights from the mid mounting assembly

6 - Gradually activate the lift control lever. At the same time, back the tractor up slowly, allowing the loader to roll off of the front mounting bracket.

7 - Continue to back the tractor up slowly until the lift cylinders are fully extended and the loader's parking stand is resting on the ground.

8 - Engage the tractor brakes and stop the engine. Activate the control lever to relieve the pressure in both the bucket and lift circuits.

9 - Disconnect the quick couplers and install clean dust covers on all ends. Position the ends of the hoses with the couplers on the loader so they do not contact the ground.


This went almost perfectly.

And follow those same steps in reverse order.

 

[RickB]

MOUNTING THE LOADER ON THE TRACTOR:

Reverse the removal procedure to mount the loader on the tractor.

1 - Slowly drive the tractor into the loader until the hoses reach from loader to the tractor. Engage the tractor brakes and turn off the engine.

2 - Check the couplers to make sure they are clean and then connect them by matching the color coded identification rings on the quick couplers.

3 - Restart the tractor engine, release the brakes, and slowly drive the tractor forward until the front mounting bracket tubes, contact the side frame channels.

4 - Gradually activate the lift control lever to retract the lift cylinders and roll the loader onto the front mounting bracket tubes.
(Here is where the whole loader started to slide forward on the ground for me. And as it slid, it appeared to be sliding off of the front mounting tubes and I assumed it might fall to the ground because the support leg was no longer extended straight up and down.)

5 - Continue rolling the loader onto the mounting bracket tubes while easing the tractor ahead.
(Here is where I had to move forward but the loader would slide a bit more and more.)

6 - When the side frame mounting hooks are fully engaged on the front mounting bracket tubes, and the side frame uprights are fully resting on the mid mounting assembly, (This is where I had to get off and physically shove the assy to the left to get both uprights to line up with tubes. I probably was not square to the loader due to chasing it across the lawn.) engage the tractor brakes and shut off the engine.

7 - Latch the rear frame upright clamps by rotating the hinge plate up against the mid mount tube, placing the T-bracket into the slot of the hinge plate while rotating the over-center latch handle towards the rear of the tractor until it is vertical. Insert the pin.

8 - Retain the hoses to the loader side frame with a rubber tie down strap.

9 - Start the engine and activate the control lever. If the loader does not operate as shown on the control decal , switch hoses at the couplers until it matches.


So, I was following the instructions step by step. it shows to inch forward and not stay in place. The sliding started as soon as step 4 and I did not want the loader to fall to the ground on the one end.

Dump the bucket so the cutting edge digs in a little, that will keep it from scooting away from the tractor. Not written, and nothing but experience will teach it. If you are on a concrete surface, you are basically screwed until the bucket contacts something that will hold it stationary. BTDT, dozens of times with multiple customers. And I won't apologize for the moron who wrote the Op manual, or the engineer that signed off on it.

 

[Chilly807]

A few differences from mounting the Kubota loader. You essentially drive "into" or "under" the disconnected loader. If you're off a little, the edges of the loader brackets are flanged to guide the loader arms into place. Once the loader arms contact the brackets, the hydraulics lower the arms into place and raise the front of the tractor to allow you to put the pins in place.

A couple of times I've had one arm touch before the other, driving an inch or two further ahead shoves the loader to one side a little bit and lines everything up.

Sean

 

[yooper1]

Thanks for the tip RickB

 

[yooper1]

Also

Thank you to all who offered their ideas and opinions

that is what makes TBN a nice place to visit and learn

 

[RoyJackson]

...If you are on a concrete surface, you are basically screwed until the bucket contacts something that will hold it stationary...

I park my loader on smooth concrete (garage floor) all the time, never had it slide during removal or installation.

BTW, I see Yooper has a New Holland T1510. Is this a replacement for the TC-30?

 

[Chilly807]

I'm the same, Roy. Neither one of us has a New Holland though. I think the difference in the way the loader attaches is why he had that happen.

Sean