ignition left on, now won't start with key.

[ampa]

Check all your connections from the ign. switch/solenoid/battery...I had a simlar problem with a little lawn tractor <>Ampa

 

[Transit]

The wife just got home a bit ago, first thing I did was get her out to the shed to turn the key to start for me. Nope no voltage.

Transit, do you know how I would check the clutch interlock switch? If I take the wire off and jumper them, if its bad should it work? I think I know were this is, on the tranny, left side front? (I did jump the solenoid as you described)

pat32rf, I don't think I have a master kill switch. Even if I did I don't think that would be it as it will start by jumping the solenoid.

Brokenknee, the Clutch Interlock Switch should be located under the tractor next to the transmission where the clutch peddle shaft enters the tranny.
When you press down on the clutch peddle the arm contacts the switch and closes the contacts. There may be connectors in the circuit or maybe a broken wire anywhere in the circuit or as others say, a stuck relay.
System prints would be most helpful in locating all the interlocks.
Were you able to activate the solenoid directly to start the engine?

 

[brokenknee]

Forgot to mention, it has a hydrostatic transmission. The safety neutral switch I am pretty sure I located on the tranny by the range swift lever. I unplugged that and it has 9.2 volts to it when I turn the key to the start position. The voltage at the battery was 12.5 volts.

I unplugged the two wires going to the neutral switch and put in a jumper wire, still no go. I also located two relays that are by the starter. One was a 60 amp, the other was a 50 amp. I unplugged both relays and checked for continuity, both had it.

Don't think I have a switch on the seat, started many times just standing by the tractor.

I was able to activate the solenoid directly to start the engine. At least I am not without my tractor but is a bit inconvenient.

 

[Soundguy]

9.2v? sounds like upstream resistance..

soundguy

 

[brokenknee]

9.2v? sounds like upstream resistance..

soundguy

I thought that was low. That should be around 12 volts also, correct? No voltage showing at the solenoid wire with the key in start position.

 

[Soundguy]

since it is an open circuit.. it should be bat volts.. IE.. no current flow.. no voltage drop. that low 9.2v reading tells me bad switch / very bad connection..

soundguy

 

[brokenknee]

since it is an open circuit.. it should be bat volts.. IE.. no current flow.. no voltage drop. that low 9.2v reading tells me bad switch / very bad connection..

soundguy

Is there a way to check the switch short of replacing it?

 

[Soundguy]

ohm meter.. or test volts going in and volts coming out

 

[Transit]

Is there a way to check the switch short of replacing it?

First, good to know that you are able to start the engine by activating the solenoid; it takes it off the problem list.
I take it that the 9.2 volt reading is at the interlock switch and jumpering it makes no difference.
Ok, what is upstream to the interlock switch, the ignition switch? If so, than that switch has a lead going back in the direction of the battery, find that terminal. You should read 12V or battery voltage at that terminal with and without turning the key. If not, keep going upstream toward the battery, look at any connections, plugs, fuses and fuses blocks.

 

[J_J]

Have you tried to place an amp meter in each circuit to trace where the current is going? Is you manual good enough for you to trace out all the voltage paths. If something is drawing current, it should be getting warm. Do you have one of these electronic temp guns with laser pointer that you aim at whatever component you want the temp reading?