Picked-up Free Murray!

[shortlid]

Yep, put the negitive jumper cables off a truck on the block. Other one I attached straight ot ther threaded terminal on the starter. Did not turn it Guess I need a starter for 12 hp I/C briggs

 

[Molerj]

Valves!!!! And whoever said it doesn't have a solenoid is incorrect & whoever said "but being an L head B&S engine there is no adjustment" is also incorrect.

 

[Tig]

whoever said "but being an L head B&S engine there is no adjustment" is also incorrect.

Whoever said that I was incorrect has not taken my mower engine apart. :laughing:
Are you perhaps thinking about changing parts to fix things up? I consider that a repair not an adjustment.

 

[Molerj]

Adjusting valves in a L-head engine can be accomplished by grinding the valve stem or cutting the valve seat.

 

[zman007007]

MOLERJ is correct, either you have manual valves you can adjust with a screw and locknut. or you have valves, you can adjust by grinding the ends off. Otherwise if the valves got out of adjustment you would have to replace them, and even then the gap would not be correct, because the pushrods would have wear on them too. zman

 

[Tig]

Since the problem is that there seem to be too much clearance between valve stem and cam, grinding the valve stem will make it worse. My grinder does not run in reverse. There is no adjustment screw and no pushrods. It's cam and valve (with a little cap on the stem) and seat.
I already mentioned dealing with the valve seat (lapping). Cutting is not feasible. IMO

 

[Molerj]

Are you saying cutting isn't feasible because you don't have a seat cutter? Lapping is what you would do after you cut the seat to get a good seal between seat & valve. New valves would in most cases be longer & you should be able to 'adjust the new valve by grinding a bit off the stem. Good luck.