Clean up that carb

[cqaigy2]

Sorry to hear about your death so close to the house. And more than once!

So sad i had tears in my eyes too.

 

[BobRip]

On the loop in the hose to prevent flooding: I am now having good results. I originally looped the hose over the top of the tank. The engine required more choking at start up and seem to run a little lean. Not real bad, but I felt I could do better. I then dropped the loop to about 4 inches below the top of the tank. It now starts first time when cold and runs good under all conditions. I sometimes have to crank it a couple of times when hot, but that's OK. No flooding now. My thanks to Continental Engines for their advice on this.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I should have kept quiet. I am having the same problem of flooding if I start the engine cold with the choke on. I need to crank first without choke and then choke and start.
I talked to Continental Engines and the guy said that when the tank is above the carburetor this tends to happen. I find this a little hard to believe since for nine years the engine was OK. Anyway, he recommend that I put a loop in the fuel line so that the high portion of the loop is at the top of the gas tank. He has seen this help on other engines. I figured it was easy to do and did it. So far its running fine, but I have very limited experience. Has anybody seen this trick/technique before?

Have you tried regular use of Sea Foam. If something works for 9 years corrrectly then stops there is usually physical damage or something is sticking due to varnish, etc. Sea Foam will not fix physcial damage where it will fix your problem or not it will clean up your fuel system/engine if used as stated on the can. I buy by the gallon now. :thumbsup:

 

[BobRip]

On the loop in the hose to prevent flooding: I am now having good results. I originally looped the hose over the top of the tank. The engine required more choking at start up and seem to run a little lean. Not real bad, but I felt I could do better. I then dropped the loop to about 4 inches below the top of the tank. It now starts first time when cold and runs good under all conditions. I sometimes have to crank it a couple of times when hot, but that's OK. No flooding now. My thanks to Continental Engines for their advice on this.

Again I am having problems. When the tank level drops, I have to drop the loop level, or the engine will run lean and die at idle. I have not replaced the needle valve yet. The new one came in, I just think that is not a cure all since Robin recommends a solenoid valve.
I have looked high and low for a solenoid fuel valve with 1/4 inch fittings. I have not seen it or anything close. Does anyone have a suggestion?

 

[J_J]

Page 10 item 20

http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0C2901.pdf

 

[BobRip]

Page 10 item 20

http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0C2901.pdf

Thanks again. This item was not shown in the drawing. Do you know what kind of fittings it has?

 

[SwampmanLA]

Try this

Vortex Series 12v solenoid valve - JCWhitney

or

Solenoid Solutions:: miniature low watt, 2-way, 3-way and latching solenoid valves-multi valve manifolds-complex finish assemblies

or

Solenoid Valves

hope this helps.

 

[BobRip]

Try this

Vortex Series 12v solenoid valve - JCWhitney

or

Solenoid Solutions:: miniature low watt, 2-way, 3-way and latching solenoid valves-multi valve manifolds-complex finish assemblies

or

Solenoid Valves

hope this helps.

Thanks.

 

[BobRip]

Just thought I would do an update on putting a high loop in the fuel line. This has caused hard starting problems and running issues, so I dropped the loop down. The PT seems to be running fine without it. I think the look was starving the fuel pump. You could see a lot of air in the fuel filter.

 

[BobRip]

Just an update on my carb problems. The engine has been running ok, but hot and cold starting have been a problem. I took the carb top off yesterday and replaced the float valve. Of course I cleaned the carb. I noticed that the choke closing spring seemed kinda of tight. Thinking back to my carb adjustment days, the best operation is when the choke is just loosely closed with engine at room temperature. That way when the engine starts it can pull the choke open some. I remember that I had tightened the spring last year to ensure closing. This turns out to be a mistake. I loosened it (basically unwrapped it one turn). I have started it three times while cold since then. It starts on first try and even if you leave it choked it continues to run at least for a while. Previously if you did not open the choke at just the right speed the engine would flood or lean out and stall. A very critical situation. So far so good. I have also had trouble with hot starts after sitting for several minutes. I am hoping the new float valve will help here.