Adding rear remote to Kubota L3400

[Chilly807]

Those of you who own a 3400 may already know that Kubota doesn't sell a "kit" for adding a rear hydraulic remote for this tractor. I needed rear hydraulics for my back blade, and with any luck a hydraulic winch in time.

I sourced the parts locally, used a Prince single spool mono-bloc valve with power beyond adapter, and a Hy-Spec 2018 cylinder (2 inch piston and 18 inch stroke).

The biggest challenge was finding a spot to mount the valve. Thanks to TEG, I mounted it on the right side loader bracket after adding a pad to level the surface.

I bent the valve lever to reduce the snag hazard on boots and pant legs, and plumbed everything as neatly as possible. Not much room to work with.

Mounting the quick connects was a challenge too, I needed them to be easily accessible yet solidly mounted from vibration. Finally I decided that the ROPS could stand a few tack welds to hold the brackets in place. If that damages it to the point that it fails, it was never any good to begin with IMO.

I angled them down to reduce the chance of dirt and water getting in, and the implement hoses usually lead down at an angle anyway.

The blade works great with the cylinder, good control and speed of travel. The 2 inch cylinder is a good match for the flow rate of the 3400 hydro pump. I do have to shorten the cylinder hoses a tad and add a couple of shield plates to protect the hoses from hooking on branches, etc.

Sean

 

[stormpetrel]

Sweet!! Very inspiring, thanks!!

 

[georgia jeff]

what was your total cost?

 

[johnrex62]

I haven't added any remotes to my L3700SU, but a local dealer gave me a quote for it. It is supposed to be the same as for the L3400. The Kubota "build your own" website function also lists the remotes as a build option.

Is your L3400 an older version? Why is there no kit available?

 

[kennyd]

Nice job Chilly:thumbsup:

 

[westbrooklawn]

Great job!... This is going to be one of my next projects for my L3400, so I can have TNT. I already have a diverter valve mounted for a front grapple, so it will take some figuring on how to plumb the hydraulics. I know there are several threads on here about using power beyond, etc. when you only have a loader, but since I have already done that with my diverter valve, I'm going to have to look at it and draw a diagram of how it should flow to rear remote valves and back. If anyone has some simple instructions (my old mind doesn't work quite as quickly as it used to), I would appreciate it.

 

[k0ua]

Looks great Chilly, I bet you get a lot of use out of that little "mod"
James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

what was your total cost?

It ended up being just under $800 Cdn including the cylinder and all the hoses and hardware.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

I haven't added any remotes to my L3700SU, but a local dealer gave me a quote for it. It is supposed to be the same as for the L3400. The Kubota "build your own" website function also lists the remotes as a build option.

Is your L3400 an older version? Why is there no kit available?

Mine is a 2009, my dealer checked and could find no kits available off-the-shelf.

He did say they could do what I did and gather up the parts and install it for me. I thought it was do-able myself, and I have saved at least the labour charges plus any markup.

Possibly if you order the tractor with rear remotes, the factory will install them when the tractor is being built, if it's listed as a build option. Mine was off-the-lot end of year clearance.

Sean

 

[kennyd]

Great job!... This is going to be one of my next projects for my L3400, so I can have TNT. I already have a diverter valve mounted for a front grapple, so it will take some figuring on how to plumb the hydraulics. I know there are several threads on here about using power beyond, etc. when you only have a loader, but since I have already done that with my diverter valve, I'm going to have to look at it and draw a diagram of how it should flow to rear remote valves and back. If anyone has some simple instructions (my old mind doesn't work quite as quickly as it used to), I would appreciate it.

A "diverter" does not use the PB line, It "diverts" fluid from the dump/curl circuit to the new on for the grapple.

If you used the PB line, then you have what's referred to here as a true 3rd function or solenoid valve.

Not trying to be picky, just want to keep the terminology correct so as not to confuse others.

Since all valves are plumbed in series, then all you have to do is still run a line from the OUT of the solenoid valve to the IN of the new valve, then the PB of the new valve to you 3PH where it terminates now. Also you will add a line from the OUT port to the tank.

 

[Chilly807]

Once you plumb the first one in, it's pretty easy understanding the path the fluid needs to take. I took the outlet from the power beyond port on the loader valve (Kubota marks it as "BY") and ran that to the inlet of the new valve.
The new valve must have either power beyond capability built in, or a power beyond adapter (which is what mine has) added to it to transfer fluid to the next valve in line (the 3ph in my case). The power beyond port on the new valve feeds down to the adapter plate under the right floorboard, into the same fitting that the power beyond hose from the loader valve used to feed into. This places the new valve in series with the loader valve and 3 ph valve.

Tee-ing in (parallel connection) on the high pressure side of the circuit won't work since the fluid will take the path of least resistance.

The two work ports on the valve go back to the quick connects on the ROPS, and finally the "return" or "drain" connection is tee-ed into the sump connection from the loader valve, again on the adapter plate under the right floorboard. There's no problem using a T connection on the drain side since there is little or no pressure here, the work has already been done by any fluid at this point in the circuit, it's just going back to the sump.

I used 3/8 hoses, since that was what the tractor had in the first place, the Prince valve is rated for 15 gpm, I think the tractor puts out something like 9.5 gpm.

Sean

 

[westbrooklawn]

Kennyd,

Thanks for correcting me... you are absolutely right, I do have a third function solenoid type valve... WR Long unit. You were not being picky at all... they are two totally different animals, and I simply used the wrong terminology.

I will have to look at how the solenoid valve is hooked up... i should be able to figure how to install another valve in series. It seems like the OUT from the solenoid valve went to a spot on the hydraulic block where the OUT from the loader valve was originally connected... I know it wasn't T'd. I just don't remember how the original loader valve OUT was connected, or where it went after the solenoid valve was installed.

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd,

Thanks for correcting me... you are absolutely right, I do have a third function solenoid type valve... WR Long unit. You were not being picky at all... they are two totally different animals, and I simply used the wrong terminology.

I will have to look at how the solenoid valve is hooked up... i should be able to figure how to install another valve in series. It seems like the OUT from the solenoid valve went to a spot on the hydraulic block where the OUT from the loader valve was originally connected... I know it wasn't T'd. I just don't remember how the original loader valve OUT was connected, or where it went after the solenoid valve was installed.

The port on that "block" is what ultimately feeds the 3PH...and it should have been the BY line from the loader valve-not the OUT line (that should not have been touched since you add a solenoid valve without a PB port)

But, we are kind of hijacking Chilly's thread

 

[Chilly807]

No worries about hi-jacking.. I'm always ready to learn and have what I do know reinforced. The ports on the valve I installed aren't that clearly marked, I asked the sales gent which ports were which when I bought it, the literature that came with it supported what he told me. On mine, the BY port is directly next to the "out" or "drain" port.

Sean

 

[teg]

Chilly807, very nice job! :thumbsup: Do you have more details about the mounting on the ROPs? The brackets that holds them... Also, Do most people mount both females to the tractor? I decided to use one male and one female... based on a couple tractors I saw... But can easily change them if need be.



Self promotion... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html

 

[Chilly807]

I used tube clamps from Parker that I welded in place on the ROPS. The clamp grips the female QC body. I used the single models, I see now from the web page that they offer twin clamps which would have been good as well.

http://www.parker.com/literature/Tube%20Fittings%20Division/ParKlamp%20Inch%20Tube%20Clamps.pdf

I used the female ends on the tractor because for now at least, most of my implements are out in the weather, the male ends are less likely to be damaged by the elements. Also, the male ends are less expensive, so if you have 5 implements that have hydraulic hookups, it's cheaper to put the two females on the tractor and use the males on the implement ends.

Sean

 

[kennyd]

I used tube clamps from Parker that I welded in place on the ROPS. The clamp grips the female QC body. I used the single models, I see now from the web page that they offer twin clamps which would have been good as well.

http://www.parker.com/literature/Tube Fittings Division/ParKlamp Inch Tube Clamps.pdf

I used the female ends on the tractor because for now at least, most of my implements are out in the weather, the male ends are less likely to be damaged by the elements. Also, the male ends are less expensive, so if you have 5 implements that have hydraulic hookups, it's cheaper to put the two females on the tractor and use the males on the implement ends.

Sean

Here is another way to do it (not that your way is not good though): Discount Hydraulic Hose.com and clamp, bolt or weld a piece of angle iron to the FEL tube.

 

[Leejohn]

I 2nd the Bulkhead Couplings , they work great.

 

[Chilly807]

I actually had two bulkhead fittings ready to go on, because I was skeptical of the Parker clamps.

Once I tried them on the QCs and then laid them against the edge of the ROPS, I decided to use the clamps, it made for a neater job with less cutting and shaping. Can you tell it was getting to be late in the day??

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

Today I got the floorboard extension done to cover the hoses and add a little protection, it turned out better than I thought it might.

The long end bolts to the loader bracket, there are also two holes in the back side that attach to the existing floorboard. I don't use the tractor much around the woods, so if I haven't damaged the hydraulic filter by now (really bad design as far as placement goes) I doubt I'll hook a hydraulic hose.

Sean