Bottom Plow

   / Bottom Plow #11  
A Subsoiler would also breakup the hard pan. Ken Sweet

I *rented* one from tractor supply, the subsoiler barely went into the ground. It went back to TSC the next day. I have read on TBN about people using subsoilers, but they must have smaller sized tractors. Either that, or I would need to find a different subsoiler.
 
   / Bottom Plow #12  
There are subsoilers, and then there are "wanna be" subsoilers. :D

And correct adjustment is most important, as well as point of pull and point of push to make a subsoiler work. Might be the simplest tool for the 3ph that requires the most adjustment of any to get it to work.
 
   / Bottom Plow #13  
Hello Everyone:

I have a CK35 and land in northern Minnesota. I have tried all the attachments you been discussing. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow from a friend and found that not to be practical because of all the tree roots, stumps etc. I ended up buying a sub-soiler (heavy duty) and mounted a 12" potato blade on it replacing the chisel. (Which I still use from-time-to-time) The sub-soiler works great for ripping up the roots, sod, old stumps etc. After cleaning up the roots etc. I go over it with a 60" JD tiller I purchase off of Craigslist. Over all the tiller works best for all rework applications, but when opening new ground start with a sub-soiler. I beleive the tiller will go down 6", but for my planting needs that's more than enough. I plant Clover, Rye,Winter wheat, and a few other goodies. I love my CK35.
 
   / Bottom Plow #14  
Hello Everyone:

I have a CK35 and land in northern Minnesota. I have tried all the attachments you been discussing. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow from a friend and found that not to be practical because of all the tree roots, stumps etc. I ended up buying a sub-soiler (heavy duty) and mounted a 12" potato blade on it replacing the chisel. (Which I still use from-time-to-time) The sub-soiler works great for ripping up the roots, sod, old stumps etc. After cleaning up the roots etc. I go over it with a 60" JD tiller I purchase off of Craigslist. Over all the tiller works best for all rework applications, but when opening new ground start with a sub-soiler. I beleive the tiller will go down 6", but for my planting needs that's more than enough. I plant Clover, Rye,Winter wheat, and a few other goodies. I love my CK35.

A tool like this was designed for "New Ground" and lots of top growth. Plowing without clogging and also cuts the roots into short sections. $695. Ken Sweet
 

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   / Bottom Plow #17  
It helps to slow down the packing of the hard pan. In addition, by working the soil this deep, you will eventually have top soil that deep. That is a real good thing. Ken Sweet

I guess it makes sense. But here in Iowa, the dirt is black as toby's (you know what). I only go that deep on first turn on virgin land to get the grasses turned under to decay. Got a 6' tiller now, so plow doesn't get used alot unless someone requests it.
 
   / Bottom Plow #18  
I guess it makes sense. But here in Iowa, the dirt is black as toby's (you know what). I only go that deep on first turn on virgin land to get the grasses turned under to decay. Got a 6' tiller now, so plow doesn't get used alot unless someone requests it.

So, you are fine with topsoil, just watch compaction. That usually occurs deep in the soil (1ft-2 ft) Ken Sweet
 
   / Bottom Plow #19  
I purchased a new 5 shank chisel plow 4ft for $459 from a local dealer. I can not recall the brand. After the purchase I went out and worked about 2 acres (which has not been plowed for about 3 years). Worked out great.

I then worked about a 20x60 spot at my house for bluebonnets. The chisel plow worked alot better than I expected. It ran about 4-6" deep when pulling in low range.

I'll go back this weekend and run over it with a disc. I'll also try to snap a few pictures of it and find the brand.

Only bad thing is that is is Red; but a little JD Green spray paint should fix it right up.
 
   / Bottom Plow #20  
Check out everythingattachments.com
 

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