First weld-on grab hook

   / First weld-on grab hook #71  
Jcliburn, Don't get hung up on how many amps it takes to burn a rod. A lot of welders just have a reostat with in ranges. I would turn the amps up some more and run your beads again. I think you will get a more fluid looking bead. With expirence you will know where to set your knob just by looking at it or you will make a mark on the dial for the different rods. You are on the right track so keep burning.

Dan
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #72  
Mig welders make 8 around here.

The 10+ an hour assumes some experience, if they can pass 1/2" 7018 open root. There will probably be about 200 people apply for these positions.
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #73  
Thats why we are letting all the mexicans get across the border:laughing:

Plus,theres welding tests and than theres welding tests,,For 10 bucks an hour,I bet if they can put the rod in the stinger and kinda get it started they will eventually be a certified welder on railcars for that company...:D
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #74  
Actually,
No. They are very selective about who they take. Its one of the highest paying welding jobs around. I think you can max out around 14.00 The problem is that there are so many welders around that they don't have to pay well. Plus unemployment is 25% locally with 16-17 officially on the books, receiving unemployment.

They are running up to 600 amp flux core as well. The welds are inspected. These rail cars are completely rebuilt and repaired. Its a large facility. There are guys there that can pass about any welding test.
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #75  
I havent kept up with welder rates in the last few years. They go up when demand is high and down when it is low. I guess it has been 3 years now since last check. My next door neighbor was welder and he was making $30 an hour plus $100 per day per diem then. That was because there was not enough welders to fill the need and every company was trying to entice welders to come work for them. This was certified pipe welders I am speaking of though. $10 an hour seems awful cheap even with 12% unemployment though. I guess I can be thankful that I have a job now days and it doesnt include burning rods, although I thoroughly enjoyed my days of welding up till 1974 when I started moving up the ladder in supervision. I just do my puttering around now, but can still lay down a pretty good looking bead even overhead if I can see it. What with my tri-focal glasses even with a cheater lense it is sometimes hard to get into position to see what I am doing now days with only 3 out of 7 neck vertabrae still working. It seem most folks try to run too cold. For 7018, Crank it up till it starts spitting buckshot off and then turn it down about 10 amps and it should be about right. The bead should be smoothly fused into the parent metal and slightly rounded. Also 7018 should never be stepped like you would a 60xx rod. Keep the arc close as you can without it sticking and a slight weave not to exceed 3 times the wire diameter is acceptable in most instances. Pretty welds depends on right amperage and then right travel speed and when you get the right amps, speed keep it consistent like you have it locked on cruise control, just a slight hesitation will make a hump and speed up to much and you're going to get a concavity. If you decide you need to weave the rod to get a larger fillet size, then it is better to make your oscillations fast rather than slow. If the puddle freezed prior to you coming back across, then you are weaving too slow or not enough amps. Crank it up and or increase your oscillation speed. I may be too old and nervous to make it as pretty as I once could but I still know how it has to be done.
 
   / First weld-on grab hook
  • Thread Starter
#76  
Thanks Dan, Gary, gauthier, gwdixon, Mark, Shield Arc, and others who've given me advice in this thread. I've seen pictures of your work and am convinced you could lay a strong, pretty bead using a lamp stand for a stinger and a coat hanger for a rod. I really appreciate your taking the time and effort to provide guidance to a welding newbie.

I continually marvel at the high signal-to-noise ratio of this forum and TBN at large.

Jay
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #77  
I worked in a railcar overhaul shop once for a few months as an inspector actually,just short term for me cause I didn't want to move,,they did tank cars and others as well,not a big place but probably hundred employees or more,,no body there was doing more than fillit welds,and pay was accordingly.

You will not find any pipe welders[pipeliners/boilermakers/pipeliners,,making much less than 25/30 an hour,most make more.

As far as the open root 7018 test,,wondering if it indeed was an open root or with backing,,,probably just horazontal and vertical,probably no open root welds on job,but ain't sure of course:D
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #78  
I havent kept up with welder rates in the last few years. They go up when demand is high and down when it is low. I guess it has been 3 years now since last check. My next door neighbor was welder and he was making $30 an hour plus $100 per day per diem then. That was because there was not enough welders to fill the need and every company was trying to entice welders to come work for them. This was certified pipe welders I am speaking of though. $10 an hour seems awful cheap even with 12% unemployment though. I guess I can be thankful that I have a job now days and it doesnt include burning rods, although I thoroughly enjoyed my days of welding up till 1974 when I started moving up the ladder in supervision. I just do my puttering around now, but can still lay down a pretty good looking bead even overhead if I can see it. What with my tri-focal glasses even with a cheater lense it is sometimes hard to get into position to see what I am doing now days with only 3 out of 7 neck vertabrae still working. It seem most folks try to run too cold. For 7018, Crank it up till it starts spitting buckshot off and then turn it down about 10 amps and it should be about right. The bead should be smoothly fused into the parent metal and slightly rounded. Also 7018 should never be stepped like you would a 60xx rod. Keep the arc close as you can without it sticking and a slight weave not to exceed 3 times the wire diameter is acceptable in most instances. Pretty welds depends on right amperage and then right travel speed and when you get the right amps, speed keep it consistent like you have it locked on cruise control, just a slight hesitation will make a hump and speed up to much and you're going to get a concavity. If you decide you need to weave the rod to get a larger fillet size, then it is better to make your oscillations fast rather than slow. If the puddle freezed prior to you coming back across, then you are weaving too slow or not enough amps. Crank it up and or increase your oscillation speed. I may be too old and nervous to make it as pretty as I once could but I still know how it has to be done.

Holy smoke, Gary.. you just gave the best advice I've ever heard on welding with a stick. Seriously. I hope you're teaching in some capacity. I hadn't thought about the weaving through a puddle before, but it makes sense to me now that if it's frozen before you get back to the other side it's going to be a lumpy weld. Inconsistent speed is probably my worst vice, I have a hard time keeping it steady with a stick.

I agree with you on wages for welders, the guys here in the ship repair business are making at least $30 an hour, the high pressure guys are making mid-to-high 30s at least. Even the minimum-wage guys get over $9 an hour for unskilled labour. You can't legally hire anyone for any less than that unless the wage structure is wonky (tips, commissions, etc.)

Sean
 
   / First weld-on grab hook #79  
Minimum wage is 7.25. Fed minimum wage is 7.25 and here they don't mess with it. Some states do.
 

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