Angle of attack for bucket

not2old · Nov 25, 2010

repete said:
When I have a stubborn pile i go to the top of the pile with my bucket as far in the "dump" position as possible. I then put the bucket down (with force) at the top edge of the pile and drag backward. This creates a pile of loose dirt that is easily scooped up.

A couple of hits with this procedure and you will soon start to use it all the time on anything stubborn. I find I can completely fill the bucket easier using this method.

My 2 cents.

I'm still a beginner, but this is the method I've been using for the best results. I've also used the curl lever back and forth, while putting down pressure on the bucket. I then back up in order to take a full scoop,filling the bucket to the point where I have to spill some so that it won't get scattered along the ground where I'm travelling across the yard.

AHNC · Nov 25, 2010

I had exactly the same situation with my 2660. I worked the rt edge of the pile. Once I opened that end to the base level I wanted I just continued to shear the pile in bites that the tractor could handle easily. I don't work my equipment to hard. It'll tell you how much it can handle. By setting my base level at first and working across I was able to get gravity to work for me. Really fine piece of equipment. good luck!:thumbsup:

Chilly807 · Nov 25, 2010

I usually dig into the top of the pile with the bucket curled down about 45 degrees from horizontal, then drag back what I can, then go ahead to scoop and curl up.

You can bend the curl cylinders if you have too much down angle and backdrag, it's happened before. I'm surprised someone hasn't mentioned this yet. The leverage the bucket has when fully dumped is substantial. If you're at a 45* angle, the bucket can ride up over really stubborn material without damaging anything.

Pick and shovel be damne*... I think I know where the shovel is, I haven't seen the pick in over a year. Once Kubota starts making the monthly payments, I'll start using the shovel again..

Seriously, loading takes practice. Once your right hand develops it's connection with your brain a little better, it gets easier. Even with loose material, drive in slowly with the bucket level, then gradually lift the loader and curl up the bucket as you start to lose traction.

With a compacted pile, you can use the solid material as a "wall" to work against. Loosen and back drag until you have enough material to fill the bucket, then drive, lift, and curl.

k0ua · Nov 25, 2010

Pick and shovel be damne*... I think I know where the shovel is, I haven't seen the pick in over a year. Once Kubota starts making the monthly payments, I'll start using the shovel again..

I was thinking the same thing,,If I could not load the dirt with the bucket, or scrape it loose to scoop it up, I would get the dynamite!:laughing:

Seriously tho, just go back and try some of the suggestions until you find what works for you, There were a lot of good ones given here.
James K0UA

Haywire · Nov 25, 2010

I've got an idea for making a 3ph counterweight. How heavy should it be?

Ian

RoyJackson · Nov 25, 2010

Haywire said:
I've got an idea for making a 3ph counterweight. How heavy should it be?

Ian

Read your tractor and loader manuals for required ballast, but I'd suggest no less then 700-800 lbs.

Haywire · Nov 25, 2010

RoyJackson said:
Read your tractor and loader manuals for required ballast, but I'd suggest no less then 700-800 lbs.

The tractor manual says "The amount of weight should be matched to the job".

I have a 25 gallon pickle barrel I thought I'd fill with quickcrete with an interior frame that would come out the side to attach to the tractor. I wouldn't think it would weigh quite that much.

Ian

Edit... the spec for the 3ph says it will lift "at least 670 lbs for the toughest jobs"

RoyJackson · Nov 25, 2010

Haywire said:
The tractor manual says "The amount of weight should be matched to the job".

Boy, that's not very helpful, is it? The Deere manuals are much more specific.

I reckon I'd go 700 lbs and see how that works.
When I had my 790 (419 loader with about 825 lbs capacity at full height), I had about 600 lbs of sand in a Deere ballast box. I don't know what the box weighed empty, but I'd estimate 80 lbs or so.
Anyway, the 790 weighed about 2200 lbs and the loader went about (estimated) 700 lbs which I think puts it's pretty close in size to your Kubota (I don't follow Kubota models anymore, so I could be way way off). The ballast box I had did pretty good (never lifted the rear and did a fine job keeping traction when moving snow).
So, try about 700 lbs. I suggest sand initially, so you can easily add or remove weight. Plus, not only is sand cheap, you can toss a shovel full or so under your tires if you need more traction in slick conditions.

whistlepig · Nov 25, 2010

Haywire said:
I've got an idea for making a 3ph counterweight. How heavy should it be?

Ian

I have a B8160 Kubota ballast box on my B7800. There is a sticker on this factory ballast box that says "Add 300 pounds for BX tractors and 500 pounds for B tractors". This ballast box weighs 106 pounds empty.