At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,321  
Water Heater Question

We are going to put in a gas water heater. The plumber asked us if we want him to use flexible water connections to hook up the heater to the copper house plumbing or if we want him to connect the copper water pipes directly to the water heater.

Does anybody have any thoughts on pros/cons for either approach? I don't have a clue which would be better.

Thanks,
Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,322  
Obed,

Place is looking very nice.:thumbsup:

Did the tile work get grouted yet? I was wondering if you could take a picture of that tile design you have (carpet tile) with the grout finished? Please.. No rush

Does anyone know of other names for this type of tile work. I keep trying to find more on google but haven't had any luck.
Gord,
Here's a picture with the grout installed.

attachment.php


Obed
 

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   / At Home In The Woods #2,323  
Water Heater Question

We are going to put in a gas water heater. The plumber asked us if we want him to use flexible water connections to hook up the heater to the copper house plumbing or if we want him to connect the copper water pipes directly to the water heater.

Does anybody have any thoughts on pros/cons for either approach? I don't have a clue which would be better.

Thanks,
Obed

The flexible lines would be easier to disconnect when you have to replace the water heater in the future. If you're good at sweating copper pipes then it doesn't matter.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,324  
Water Heater Question

We are going to put in a gas water heater. The plumber asked us if we want him to use flexible water connections to hook up the heater to the copper house plumbing or if we want him to connect the copper water pipes directly to the water heater.

Does anybody have any thoughts on pros/cons for either approach? I don't have a clue which would be better.

Thanks,
Obed

The flexible lines would be easier to disconnect when you have to replace the water heater in the future. If you're good at sweating copper pipes then it doesn't matter.

I agree with Dishpointer...
If you have the option, use the flexible.. not only would it be easier, but FASTER!!!! if you have to add any 90 deg or 45 deg or more pipe etc, it would be cheaper....

The only thing that I wonder about, is does the flex have any more leak risk?
I doubt it as you are not going to be flexing it on any kind of schedule....

Have you got a whole house water filter?

the sand in from the well, may "eat" a hole...


thoughts?


Jack
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,325  
Today the H&A guy came and did some work. He raised the pipe that runs through the wall and will connect to the gas meter for about $150. That was much better than the 6 hours he muttered earlier. He connected the duct work to the kitchen range so we were able to have the drywall guy close in the duct work that is in the garage.

Painting work continued today. All the doors have been taken off the hinges and will be painted while they are not hung in the door frames. All the edges of the doors must be painted in order not void the manufacturer's warrantee. I assume that leaving any of the edges unpainted could all moisture inside the door that could lead to warping.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,326  
Here's the hall bath vanity. Notice which side the door closest to the toilet has the hinges. Can you figure out why we hinged the door that direction?
 

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   / At Home In The Woods #2,327  
To put the toilet paper roll holder on the inside of door.

I went to a friends place and didn't see the roll and it was in the cabinet he said it ended up there because the cats would unroll it.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,328  
Here's the hall bath vanity. Notice which side the door closest to the toilet has the hinges. Can you figure out why we hinged the door that direction?

It's either for quick access to another roll of TP when the one on the roller has 2 sheets left after your wife didn't change it out or so it wouldn't hit the bathroom door! Looking good Obed.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,329  
Water Heater Question

We are going to put in a gas water heater. The plumber asked us if we want him to use flexible water connections to hook up the heater to the copper house plumbing or if we want him to connect the copper water pipes directly to the water heater.

Does anybody have any thoughts on pros/cons for either approach? I don't have a clue which would be better.

Thanks,
Obed

Flexible for sure - much easier for the next water heater. Also I would have him install shut off valves on both legs so you don't have to drain down the system totally to replace the heater. This will be very important if you need to sweat new copper onto the pipes to reach the new water heater connections (nothing's ever the same on these). With valves on both legs, you shut them off, drain the last bit of pipe and go to work. Done in no time without fighting water in the lines. On mine I even put a crossover with a valve above the shutoffs, so all I need to do is shut off the 2 legs, and turn on the crossover valve, and I still have full water supply to the house, although no actual hot water. Makes life a little less annoying while it is down.

Tank water heaters only last 10-12 years, typically, so you will have to do this on an all-too-often basis. But a lot also depends on the water chemistry in your area. I assume you will have a whole house filter and softener since you will be on a well. The filters are critical to extending the life of the tank (removing sediment). They should be the first thing in the house, like right after the pressure tank.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,330  
The master bath vanity is taller than the hall bath vanity. These days it is becoming more common for the vanities to be taller than they used to, I guess because people are taller now. We left the hall bath vanity the old standard height to make it easier for children to use. The master bath vanity has drawers at the bottom below the sink areas to maximize space usage.

The doors on the medicine cabinet on the wall above the master bath vanity each hinge different directions so that a person at each sink has easy access to one of the doors. The medicine cabinet sits a little too high on the wall for perfect ease of use. However, lowering the cabinet to just above the outlets makes the cabinet look a bit strange because of the crown moulding. We are trying to decide what to do with that cabinet. We took off the crown moulding and that made the medicine cabinet look too plain according to my wife. She has e-mailed the cabinet maker to see if there is a different type of trim that can be put at the top that is not as elaborate as the crown moulding.

One of the wires for the light above the far sink will need to be moved because it is not centered above the sink.
 

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