Snow Attachments SNOW REMOVAL HELP

[Diamondpilot]

Here is a link to my plow setup and build. I have less than $1000 in both the front mounted plow and the rear grader blade. It moves lots of snow for the money. I plow my drive, 280', and about 10 others ranging from 600' to 150' and a 1 mile road both ways in about 2 hours.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/155271-meyer-plow-my-tractor.html

Chris

 

[Dead Horse]

I picked this plow and A frame up for $100. Yes, it was an old truck plow. The key element is its closeness to the front wheels. This reduces the moment arm that tends to resist steering forces from the front tires.

Perfect!

I went with the FEL mount because I need my FEL for other things in the winter. I use a Central Boiler to heat my home and my wood shed is 3/4 mile from the stove. The big tractor FEL can move a half a cord of wood per trip if properly loaded, and I burn a cord a week. So every couple of weeks the big guy has a date with the wood pile.

That plus some times you just need the brute strength of a HD loader to deal with hard, frozen snow banks and such, especially when the town plow trucks have been at it all night and you would like to avoid breaking blower shear pins.......

So I want my loader mounted on the tractors all winter.

Lastly a FEL mounted plow blade is VERY easy to get off the tractor. 2 quickconnects and two frame pins. No fuss no muss.

My drive is a long one so my plow runs are long and pretty straight. I use the small tractor in tight spaces.

 

[lungdoc]

Steep = chains, no doubt about it. I use front and rear and our 4320 is a tank with them. You will get snow covered if blower and no cab - helmet and one piece suit recommended. I don't think there's a mid-PTO driven easy front blower option for the 43x0 Deere's - if hydraulic blower into serious money. Blower getting rid of the piles is a huge benefit especially in the spring - not relevant if you don't get accumulated snow eg melts between storms. All solutions are easier where snow and ice stick around so plowing frozen ground and leave a thin layer of frozzen stuff to keep gravel down - good to drive on first snows to pack it down if able. A blower will be easier than a plow on unfrozen ground in my opinion though if it does dig in you throw the gravel (beware buildings etc. If I had to plow I'd get a truck plow before a plow for an uncabbed tractor. I use blower to clean up between truck plows and keeps the banks to a manageable size - where we are pickup plow without wings can't keep road wide enough most years due to banks.

This weekend one foot snow already!

 

[chrispratt11]

Do I have to have weight in the back if I have a front plow with chains?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Do I have to have weight in the back if I have a front plow with chains?

Weight is a must. I run my rears fluid filled, wheel weights on each rear, and the 7' grader blade. I also have 4 suit case weights on the front to aid in the steering. My total plow weight with me on my 28HP tractor is 5,600#

Chris

 

[beenthere]

........ I don't think there's a mid-PTO driven easy front blower option for the 43x0 Deere's - ........]

I believe there is a front mid PTO driven Deere blower. Don't recall the number right off, but they are around.
(albeit, the FEL has to come off)

Nice pics, and agree that the snowmobile helmet makes life more cozy.

 

[Dead Horse]

Do I have to have weight in the back if I have a front plow with chains?

It certainly is a plus......... I have loaded tires on both tractors and recommend that approach. NB: that when the plow blade is on the ground it does not unbalance the tractor so with chains you will not be unhappy unless you are trying to push a lot of snow UP hill.

In my opinion the purpose of the chains is to limit wheel spin and have effective braking. You start a slide and the first thing you should do is drop the blade. With chains, you can use the brakes to slow the tractor without eliminating steering. A tractor is not a plow truck......... it is made to do the work effectively with a TON of torque and at a slow speed.

Even with loaded tires, my driveway grade is so steep sometimes the tractor will not advance up the hill even with everything (plow, rear scraper blade) off the ground.

 

[Jay4200]

Hello,

I have a JD 4310 and plan on plowing my own driveway for the first time this year. My driveway is a steep 300 - 400 yards, I live in New England so we get a fare amount of snow. I'm not sure if I should be thinking snowblower or front blade and or if I need chains. I was offered a used AF12 for $1,500. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Blades are OK, but you'll run into trouble if you get a couple of feet of wet heavy snow. I have a fairly steep driveway myself, and 1100 feet of it to boot. To tackle anything that drops, you need one of these:

I found this 6' blower w/ hydraulic chute controls on Craigs list - listed for $1500 - after a bit of negotiating, I ended up getting it for $1350 w/ a Woods 6' scraping blade thrown in for free .

I bought chains for all 4 tires this year, but haven't mounted them yet. I'm thinking of mounting just the front wheel chains first (2-link ladder V-bars), then put them on the back (2-link ladders) only if I find I need more traction.

JayC

 

[lungdoc]

I believe there is a front mid PTO driven Deere blower. Don't recall the number right off, but they are around.
(albeit, the FEL has to come off)

Nice pics, and agree that the snowmobile helmet makes life more cozy.

I don't think so for that series of Deere (or at least not for 4x20, not sure re 4310) - there is for 3x20 for sure.

 

[beenthere]

The 59" front snowblower is listed on the Deere site for the JD 4320. Maybe that is in error. And maybe it is not wide enough. ??