Gary Fowler
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- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
With regard to carbon steel quenching (one of several annealing processes) this quote from Wiki
"Generally speaking, cooling swiftly will give a finer pearlite (until the martensite critical temperature is reached) and cooling slowly will give a coarser pearlite. Cooling a hypoeutectoid (less than 0.77 wt% C) steel results in a pearlitic structure with α-ferrite at the grain boundaries. " Since most of the steel anyone on this site would be welding falls within this carbon steel content, this is what you would be doing. Pearlite has a much more elastic structure than normalized steel. Generally speaking, mild carbon steel cant to much in the way of heat treating and nothing is required for it unless it is welded in very thick (more than .75") sections. Then you need a PWHT treatment to relax the weld a bit. This is not something that you can do at home generally speaking as it requires the temp to be held at 1200-1250 F for 1 hour per inch of thickness and also a heating and cooling rate to note exceed 400F per hour above 800F. I dont think anyone can do that with a torch at home. We shouldnt be trying to weld spring steel back together as you are wasting your time. It will just break again. For most hobby welding using mild steel (A 36 plate and similar ) dont worry too much about damaging the steel, you are not going to hurt it.
For all you welders out there that occassionally have to take a bend test. When you cut your straps from the test coupon with an OA torch, let them drop directly into a bucket of water. This will transform the grain structure from coarse to small making them super ductile and bend like putty. This is more valuable to do as the tensile strength of the test coupon rises as in grade X 60 pipe and above. A 106 (mild Steel pipe similar to A 36 plate) wont be affected very much either way. Either way, there is no substitution for making a good weld
Oh, dont do this with chrome / moly steels. They dont react well to sudden temperature changes.
"Generally speaking, cooling swiftly will give a finer pearlite (until the martensite critical temperature is reached) and cooling slowly will give a coarser pearlite. Cooling a hypoeutectoid (less than 0.77 wt% C) steel results in a pearlitic structure with α-ferrite at the grain boundaries. " Since most of the steel anyone on this site would be welding falls within this carbon steel content, this is what you would be doing. Pearlite has a much more elastic structure than normalized steel. Generally speaking, mild carbon steel cant to much in the way of heat treating and nothing is required for it unless it is welded in very thick (more than .75") sections. Then you need a PWHT treatment to relax the weld a bit. This is not something that you can do at home generally speaking as it requires the temp to be held at 1200-1250 F for 1 hour per inch of thickness and also a heating and cooling rate to note exceed 400F per hour above 800F. I dont think anyone can do that with a torch at home. We shouldnt be trying to weld spring steel back together as you are wasting your time. It will just break again. For most hobby welding using mild steel (A 36 plate and similar ) dont worry too much about damaging the steel, you are not going to hurt it.
For all you welders out there that occassionally have to take a bend test. When you cut your straps from the test coupon with an OA torch, let them drop directly into a bucket of water. This will transform the grain structure from coarse to small making them super ductile and bend like putty. This is more valuable to do as the tensile strength of the test coupon rises as in grade X 60 pipe and above. A 106 (mild Steel pipe similar to A 36 plate) wont be affected very much either way. Either way, there is no substitution for making a good weld