Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Clearing snow with FEL

[Ford tractor]

FEL's are about worthless for snow, except for moving frozen piles when the snow gets too deep. VERY easy to gouge the ground and not even notice how bad it is until spring. VERY easy to scrape up things like the edge of the driveway and that's expensive to fix. If it's all you have -- buy a shovel.

Use the back blade.

First of all the OP has a Kubota M7040 - that's a 71 hp tractor. I suspect he is not going to have too much problem with the 9" - 12" he is expecting - now. If the snow gets too deep for his 71 hp and FEL, a back blade is not going to be the solution. The main problem with a blade, front or rear, is that sooner or later the snow piles up and has to be moved back.

Location and snow fall differ for all of us. What may work for me, may not work for others. I clear a total of approx 12,000 sq ft - gravel covered. I have the option of using a front blade, a rear blade or a bucket. For me a snow blower front or rear would be unnecessary.

Overall, for my application an FEL bucket works best.

Read what I wrote carefully. I didn't say his machine was not capable of moving heavy things. Just the opposite. The machine can VERY easily move things like the top layer of sod, the asphalt from the driveway, the curbs, flower gardens, etc etc. I've seen drives with 1" deep gouges from the FEL bucket (just ask my wife).

With a smaller machine than his and back blade I can move snow that has drifted up over 4' high and get done in a small fraction of the time it would take (and do less damage to my yard / driveway) that using and FEL. But as you stated, what works for me may not work for others. Still, my opinion stands -- FEL's are about the last tool I would recommend for snow shoveling. Back blades on the other hand are designed to move material off to the side. I angle mine sharply and drive forward much of the time, the spin it around and go backwards when needed.

 

[brin]

Use the rear blade to make piles and the FEL to clean them up. it's a little slow and frustrating, but it gives you more tractor time.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[NC tractor driver]

That's pretty much what I do. Push it with the FEL and once in a while dump it off the road. This year, our first snow fall was 6 inches, I had the box blade on instead of the backhoe so tried using the box blade to scrape while pushing with the FEL. Once the box blade got full I would lift it and the snow would fall out, sometimes with a bit of help. Got the road a little smoother. :thumbsup:

I've got a FEL and a box blade on my tractor. What seemed to work well was to push with the FEL and lower the box blade which was tilted level. The FEL did the majority of the work and the box blade did a good job leveling and grooming. Worked pretty well for me.

 

[mdelmarcelle]

Thanks for all the advice! This forum is great! Tomorrow we should have 10-12 inches on the ground, so I'll be able to experiment a bit. Based on what I read, I'll go slow and tilt the bucket up slightly, letting it float. And use the back blade whenever I can. Glad to not read (at least not yet) of anyone damaging their FEL clearing snow. The loader is pretty rugged (LA1153), but anything can break.

 

[whistlepig]

Take your time and let the FEL teach you. Don't try to teach the FEL. Watch your bucket leveler for the position you like. Once I got the hang of it I do less damage to my gravel driveway with the FEL than I do with my ATV and a blade.

 

[pat32rf]

Initially I drive on it until the crushed stone forms a good solid frozen base. Then I reverse the back blade and wing the snow off to the side. Parking areas and turnarounds get cleared the same way. Once the resulting piles get to be too high and well compacted I use the snow bucket on the FEL to carry them to my dumpsites(over the edge of a vartious hills). About 1000' of hilly driveway and a large parking area, plus a barnyard/woodshed area.
If I have to open access to get to something in the middle of winter, I'll use the FEL/snowbucket to dig thru the 2' of old packed snow but other than that the FEL is for carrying, the backblade for pushing off to the sides.
I also have a rear blower but it doesn't get a lot of use most winters.....as my backblade has a trailer ball on it, the blower doesn't. At least not yet....

 

[Chilly807]

Last year I used only the FEL with bucket with good results. What used to take me 1.5 hours with a walk-behind blower took me 30 minutes with the tractor. The bucket isn't the perfect tool, but it kicks a shovel's azz all the way out the driveway.

I built a couple of skids for the bucket bottom, the angle on the front lets you change the angle of the bucket to scrape as close as you want to. Also doesn't wear out the bucket cutting edge or gouge anything too badly. I did have to add some weld to the front angle of the skids about mid-winter but that's not a big deal for me. I drilled the bucket and used carriage bolts to mount them.
I used the loader mostly in float mode.

A snow screen on the bucket top helps to move more snow without spilling.

And adjustable skid shoes on the rear blade are this year's addition.

I doubt you'll have much trouble, just go slow and be aware of what's under the snow. Lawns call for some care, as the bucket will do a number on sod, but so will a plow. Once the ground's frozen it gets easier.
I left a few channels with the skids in unfrozen ground, but no major damage.

Sean

 

[Haywire]

I just used my bucket for the first time clearing snow off my drive. It was a learning curve. There is a fine line between enough bucket angle to get snow and enough to lift gravel. Watch for the dirty snow, that's the sign to back up and reduce the angle a bit. Won't take long to get the hang of it.

Ian

 

[Don87]

I just used my bucket for the first time clearing snow off my drive. It was a learning curve. There is a fine line between enough bucket angle to get snow and enough to lift gravel. Watch for the dirty snow, that's the sign to back up and reduce the angle a bit. Won't take long to get the hang of it.

Ian

I agree, it's definitely a learning curve(i'm still practicing).

But one tip(and I've been preaching this to my son), know where everything is. Make mental notes, driveway is 6 feet from this corner, 8 feet from this corner, flowers 10 inches from drive at this point, mailbox here...........etc.
It can and will save a lot of heartache later on.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

1. The machine can VERY easily move things like the top layer of sod, the asphalt from the driveway, the curbs, flower gardens, etc etc. I've seen drives with 1" deep gouges from the FEL bucket (just ask my wife).

2. FEL's are about the last tool I would recommend for snow shoveling. Back blades on the other hand are designed to move material off to the side.

1. No doubt your statement is true, however, nothing the OP has stated indicates whether any of those circumstances are an issue in his situation.

2. Recommendation based on your location, your snow conditions, your experience. As can be seen by reading the responses several others do not consider a FEL "useless" for clearing snow.

Each of us can only listen to the experience of others and then apply that information to best suit the needs of our own situation based on location, snow conditions, experience, personal preference and last but not least $$$ and equipment available to deal with the task at hand.

 

[RalphVa]

We had 56 inches last year here. Most of it came in 2 dumps.

Don't wait until you get more than about 6 inches. You can handle up to this amount with just the back blade. You can push lots of snow up onto a side bank with the back blade by going in reverse and going sideways a bit when you get the snow piled up. Then raise the blade as you run the tractor backwards and sideways to shove the snow up and over the bank.

If you wait until 6+ inches fall, you're stuck with fill-the-FEL, raise, turn to side and dump. SLOW.

I've had no trouble with just putting my FEL on float and making sure it is level. Can't see raising the front a bit like others suggest. It'll just rise up higher and higher and also pack the snow down. You can slit a heat hose and attach it to the front lip if you're worried about it catching on some bits of asphalt. Goop it in place. Go slow, in case you catch something off to the side.

Oh, and my little 4010 with turf tires did just fine.

Ralph

 

[RoyJackson]

Thought I'd add a little more, since the OP (mdelmarcelle) is in Wisconsin...

I was in Appleton WI last year on a supplier visit. One stop I had to make was in Antigo (about 100 miles NW of Appleton (for other readers, it's about 100 miles NNW of Milwaukee)).
Anyway, during my drive to Antigo, I observed smaller farm tractors (seemed like most old Fords) and some CUTs on virtually every parking lot. Most had rear blades rigged to them and were obviously for snow removal. Can't say I saw one snow blower rigged (since this was Apr or May 2009, those implements may have been stored).
So, looks like most smaller lots (convenience stores and such) use a rear blades for pushing snow.

 

[jimmyj]

Initially I drive on it until the crushed stone forms a good solid frozen base. Then I reverse the back blade and wing the snow off to the side. Parking areas and turnarounds get cleared the same way. Once the resulting piles get to be too high and well compacted I use the snow bucket on the FEL to carry them to my dumpsites(over the edge of a vartious hills).

Very good advice. Pack the snow until the gravel freezes and then you won't scrape it all over the place. The rear blade in reverse does this well as does back blading the FEL in float position. Nice and smooth and hard for easy plowing later. Nothing is worse than tearing up the lawn, drive, yard, etc when it's not quite frozen.

 

[beenthere]

Thought I'd add a little more, since the OP (mdelmarcelle) is in Wisconsin...

I was in Appleton WI last year on a supplier visit. One stop I had to make was in Antigo (about 100 miles NW of Appleton (for other readers, it's about 100 miles NNW of Milwaukee)).
Anyway, during my drive to Antigo, I observed smaller farm tractors (seemed like most old Fords) and some CUTs on virtually every parking lot. Most had rear blades rigged to them and were obviously for snow removal. Can't say I saw one snow blower rigged (since this was Apr or May 2009, those implements may have been stored).
So, looks like most smaller lots (convenience stores and such) use a rear blades for pushing snow.

Roy.
I don't think that is a very clear snapshot of what happens these days in WI.
I drive a lot and lived 50 yrs in WI and don't observe anything close to what you saw.
But am not doubting what you saw, just the conclusion from a late Spring visit.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy.
I don't think that is a very clear snapshot of what happens these days in WI.
I drive a lot and lived 50 yrs in WI and don't observe anything close to what you saw.
But am not doubting what you saw, just the conclusion from a late Spring visit.

Somebody living in in WI would know a lot more then a 3-4 day visitor. However, I did see a number of smaller tractors (with blades on the 3PH) on the lots I described previously. As those lots were paved (for the most part), snow removal was the the most likely reason for them being there. They surely weren't there for grading.
Anyway, just my observation on a trip...

 

[Haywire]

Well I learned something this morning. We got 6-8 last night and if I do this much, I will be investing in a set of chains for the front tires. I had plenty of traction for the pushing, but steering was another thing altogether. I'm sporting the industrial R4 tires. Had the box scraper on the back.

Ian

 

[fredhargis]

Well I learned something this morning. We got 6-8 last night and if I do this much, I will be investing in a set of chains for the front tires. I had plenty of traction for the pushing, but steering was another thing altogether. I'm sporting the industrial R4 tires. Had the box scraper on the back.

Ian

That kinda mirrors my inaugural experience this morning. The only time I had steering problems was when i was using my FEL, I thought maybe the weight of the snowthrower on the back was causing it. I keep the blower up about 2" off the gravel, and then tried to clean it up a little with the FEL. I guess I'll look for a set of chains for the front.

 

[logan97]

Put the rear blade in reverse and drag the snow on angle to each side (change blade to left / right angle each pass). This way the blade will not be as aggressive to digging in and will most likely "Jump" over obstacles.

jw5875

and if you have a (pin) in the center of the rear blade remove it, the R Blade will also float side to side and not gouge. One more thing that really helped us get some T-bars or large enough stakes pounded in the ground near where you are plowing as guides for your road location. MHO & 2 cents.

 

[pitt_md]

I have used the FEL to move snow before but it is about the slowest method i have tried when the storms hit. Then again it beats shoveling! Run what ya brung.

 

[PA hayseed]

I agree, it's definitely a learning curve(i'm still practicing).

But one tip(and I've been preaching this to my son), know where everything is. Make mental notes, driveway is 6 feet from this corner, 8 feet from this corner, flowers 10 inches from drive at this point, mailbox here...........etc.
It can and will save a lot of heartache later on.

good advice. After last year I painted a few sticks and put themn in the ground at key locations of things I did not want to hit. What appeats to be blatantly obvious location for an item may not look the same after 12" of snow and some drifting occurs. I know my driveway verywell, I built it and maintain it. I still hit the edge of my rock wall. Plowing/moving snow in the dark, with snow drifts and snow blwoing in your face, makes it difficult. The markers seems to be useful so far. Now if we get 3' with drifts, I'm done, they are only about 2.5 ft high.

Don't worry about frozen ground, your fel will likely push whatever you want into the ground. I just added another 50' of snow fence and had the old lady operate the bucket while I held the posts.