Might Need To Hot-wire My Kubota
- Thread starter BlackSmokeLust
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BlackSmokeLust
New member
Some interesting advice from many but still doesn't answer my original question of hot-wiring it.
I'd' rather move this into my garage before I start troubleshooting broken connections and faulty grounds so since I have an extra ignition switch I was hoping to just create a new circuit just to get it to move....that is until I read the starter test instructions. Now I am wondering if I need a resister to engage my solenoid.
.....the connector in images 'S' is the safety switch circuit. Does anyone else interpret this as a 6V circuit as I do? The gauge of that wire is very small and I wouldn't be surprised at all to see it reduced down to 6V from 12V. The only place I can think it could be happening is at the IC Regulator.
I cannot find any instructions in the workshop manual to test correct voltage on any of the starter wires.
I'd' rather move this into my garage before I start troubleshooting broken connections and faulty grounds so since I have an extra ignition switch I was hoping to just create a new circuit just to get it to move....that is until I read the starter test instructions. Now I am wondering if I need a resister to engage my solenoid.
.....the connector in images 'S' is the safety switch circuit. Does anyone else interpret this as a 6V circuit as I do? The gauge of that wire is very small and I wouldn't be surprised at all to see it reduced down to 6V from 12V. The only place I can think it could be happening is at the IC Regulator.
I cannot find any instructions in the workshop manual to test correct voltage on any of the starter wires.
chiefchicken
Member
Blacksmokelust, no insult intended here, but are you turning the key all the way to the start position? Most tractor ignition switches have four positions (Stop, On, Preheat, Start). Your first post didn't mention you turning it past the preheat stage. I only ask because you say the tractor is new to you.
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BlackSmokeLust
New member
Yes..all the way over to start. :thumbsup:
chiefchicken
Member
I figured you had passed "key operation 101" but thought I'd just check anyway. 
Good luck with the troubleshooting, you've gotten a lot of good advice so far to go on.
Good luck with the troubleshooting, you've gotten a lot of good advice so far to go on.
I believe you would be safe in jumping battery voltage to S. So to "hot wire" turn key to on position, MAKE SURE YOU'RE IN NEUTRAL, then jump battery voltage to S. I would be careful not to crank for longer than the 5 seconds indicated on the starter test page. We still have a missing link. There is no provision for reducing voltage before the coil. I would like to know where the "no voltage" wire goes. This must be how the 6v is achieved for the hold in coil. Is that a resistor wire?
P.S. Have you checked the voltage on wire 14 , while cranking, but with starter out of circuit?
P.S. Have you checked the voltage on wire 14 , while cranking, but with starter out of circuit?
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BlackSmokeLust
New member
Wire 14W has no voltage while cranking or not. Wire 14 BW shows .98 volts at crank. I want to point to solenoid D905 for losing power to 14W but that still wouldn't explain the drop in power on wire 14BW.
If I let it sit for a day then go out and start working on it the dash lights, minus glow plug lights, are bright. After just two or three less then 2 second turns of the key the dash lights barely come one then dim to nothing. Even at the point battery would still read a high 12.
My model does not have the timer relay.
With the starter in for a rebuild, I reconnected my grounds and am thinking of connecting the two reds together where the starter goes to power the circuit again and do some more testing.
This is how I read it. Battery voltage goes directly to starter post B. From here it goes thru 30a fuse out to feed your lighting, regulator and keyswitch via wire 12r. When you crank your engine you make contacts 30 and 50 on your keyswitch sending voltage out on wire 14bw. This passes thru the safety switches and directly to S on starter. Not 100% sure about D905. It get's voltage from 20RB which is taken from AC on your keyswitch thru 20a fuse. Then it appears to provide the 6v required by your starter on C. So, to "hot wire" you would jumper 30 to AC then touch 50 to start. Kind of a weird start circuit. Lots of places to lose voltage. Thanks for the rest of the drawing. The starter test procedure helped, too.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Re the 6 volts to test solenoid;
could it be that they are actually using a 6 volt solinoid due to voltage drop when the starter in engaged?
starters will often drop line voltage to 8 volts or so, and a 12 volt solenoid would risk opening under low voltage condition.
Personaly I would risk a simple tap of 12 volts to confirm solinoid operation. A brief tap should result in an audible solid 'clack' if solinoid is functional.
could it be that they are actually using a 6 volt solinoid due to voltage drop when the starter in engaged?
starters will often drop line voltage to 8 volts or so, and a 12 volt solenoid would risk opening under low voltage condition.
Personaly I would risk a simple tap of 12 volts to confirm solinoid operation. A brief tap should result in an audible solid 'clack' if solinoid is functional.
