Adding a cylinder mount to rear blade

[Chilly807]

I won't say it's impossible, but the hoses are rated for 5000 psi. I doubt the 3400 can generate enough force without sliding sideways to get that high, at least at normal working speeds. Hooking a tree at 15 mph isn't in that category..

I tried it with the old cylinder bracket moving some sloppy mud behind the barn. I hooked into a couple of stumps solidly enough to slew the tractor around and nothing moved except the old bracket, which bent slightly.

And, if I find I'm into some really heavy going that might cause problems, I can still drop the original pin into the holes and effectively lock out the hydraulics.

Sean

 

[Craig Clayton]

To LD1
I was checking around and I found your question.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/165965-homemade-hydraulic-angle-rear-blade.html
I believe it is a 2.5" x 10 " stroke tie rod cylinder import grade.
Based on the simple setup that I have it must be strong enough, in the winter I can bring the tractor to a halt with all wheels spinning. I have not tested to wheel spin in the summer.
Craig Clayton

 

[LD1]

To LD1
I was checking around and I found your question.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/165965-homemade-hydraulic-angle-rear-blade.html
I believe it is a 2.5" x 10 " stroke tie rod cylinder import grade.
Based on the simple setup that I have it must be strong enough, in the winter I can bring the tractor to a halt with all wheels spinning. I have not tested to wheel spin in the summer.
Craig Clayton

Thank you for the info.

Just a few more questions if you dont mind.

What is the distance between the blade pivot and where you have the cylinder attaches??

And what is the size of your blade?

 

[Craig Clayton]

To LD1
I do not know I only built it one saturday, readjusted the cylinder and have not measured it since. I was plowing with it this past weekend. It is standing in the machine shed, and it is too cold to get the tape measure out.I do not mind any question, I will see what I can do.
Craig Clayton

 

[LD1]

the reason I was wondering is because a 2.5" cylinder has about 56% more force.

Using the example earlier, IF you are running 2000psi, and IF you have a 6' blade, and IF your cylinder is 8" from the pivot, it would take over 2100lbs of pressure on the far edge before you exceeded that 2000psi as opposed to only 1400lbs with a 2" cylinder.

But just something as simple as your cylinder mounted 10" away instead of 8" in my example wounow give you over 2700lbs at the edge. And further suppose you are running 2500psi w/a 10" mount, that would now make it over 3300lbs.

 

[nwltruck]

Don't want to hijack the thread but I have had the idea of using a worm drive gear box, and orbit motor attached to the top of the pivot point. this would give you the ability to rotate the blade 360 degrees, and the worm drive would not allow the blade to spin itself. sorry should have started my own thread but saw this and had to add my $.02. Good looking job though!!!!:thumbsup:

 

[Craig Clayton]

To LD1
I am at home now and I have a some time to think. In looking over all the posts there is a big concern about the developed hydraulic pressure under grading conditions. To the best of my knowledge a open center 3 way ( NON MOTOR ) spool blocks the 2 work ports when the spool is in the neutral position. That is why on mobile hoisting equipment they have lock valves on the cylinders, so if a hose bursts the boom will not fall. If the steel hydraulic cylinder pops the whole shooting match is coming down.
I think my blade is 5' and I went with a 10" stroke because prototype1was 10" and Princess Auto had them on sale.
There is a whole lot of fun vector geometery that happens when you try to plow the maximum snow at 45Degrees and the tractor would rather go along crab style. When I move the blade to a lesser angle it stops pushing so badly sidways. The game is between wet snow, rock hard ice banks and powdersnow.
When I get to the end of the drive I quickly swing the blade forword so that I do not drop the load on the inside of the curve.
Interesting point of hind sight, I have spent more time typing up how I built the blade than I did in the fabricating of the blade.
With the angling blade you can sculpt your work and never get out of the seat.
Craig Clayton

 

[rjmack]

Interesting point of hind sight, I have spent more time typing up how I built the blade than I did in the fabricating of the blade.

i know what you mean.:laughing:

 

[Chilly807]

I used mine a bit a few days ago on frozen ground leveling the surface. It hooked a few times on old stumps, etc. At low ground speed nothing has broken yet. I'd like to have mounted the cylinder end further out on the blade to reduce the leverage the blade has over the cylinder, but unless I cantilever the cylinder mount out there's nothing that far out to attach to.

Sean

 

[wdchyd]

Are you sure that this will vent in the center position? Usually the relief valve is on the supply side, not on the output port. I think you are in danger of blowing it up under load as LD1 has stated.

Think "Cushion Valve" or "Crossover Relief Valve" .....When using force from an induced load (your tractor).... you will get more potential pressure in that cyl when control valve is in neutral position and it meets resistance (rock, curb ect)..thus resulting in damage that will not be desirable....

Plows have the same problem.....If in doubt use a portopower hand pump with a guage to see if pressure bypasses ....you have "work port reliefs " if you have the right setup on your control valve ......Best to check it before bent/wrecked parts happen.....:thumbsup: