gerard
Veteran Member
Still can't hurt to put a little RV anti freeze in there. Should stop any future concerns for those cold spells you seem to get in florida every 100 years or so!! 
Water in rear tires may have frozen? Is this bad??
- Thread starter beppington
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WayneB
Elite Member
Last year (January) I was skidding logs and one of my rear tires let go and dumped the ballast calcium chloride out. I pulled the wheel/tire and took it to a local tire place and they checked the tire all was fine and then re-loaded it using a product called Rim Guard.
Rim Guard is a nontoxic, biodegradable, non-corrosive fluid that we use instead of calcium chloride. This product is roughly 11 pounds per gallon and will not corrode the rims.
The place I took the tire is an industrial tire place and deals with a large number of earth moving equipment and they are setup to work on tractor tires. They actually removed the tire cleaned the rim and the put on a sealant before reinstalling the tire and filling it with the stuff.
Wasn't cheap but at least I will not have to worry about rust of the rim or the tire for a while.
Getting the wheel and tire to them was pretty easy, but when I picked it up it took four rather large men to load it into my truck. They used a ramp and ran it up into the bed. When I got home I was able to leverage it up and then rolled it out of the back of the truck. Naturally, it took off in a big way and rolled about forty feet.
The rest of the year I had no problems with either tire and no flat spots!
Rim Guard is a nontoxic, biodegradable, non-corrosive fluid that we use instead of calcium chloride. This product is roughly 11 pounds per gallon and will not corrode the rims.
The place I took the tire is an industrial tire place and deals with a large number of earth moving equipment and they are setup to work on tractor tires. They actually removed the tire cleaned the rim and the put on a sealant before reinstalling the tire and filling it with the stuff.
Wasn't cheap but at least I will not have to worry about rust of the rim or the tire for a while.
Getting the wheel and tire to them was pretty easy, but when I picked it up it took four rather large men to load it into my truck. They used a ramp and ran it up into the bed. When I got home I was able to leverage it up and then rolled it out of the back of the truck. Naturally, it took off in a big way and rolled about forty feet.
The rest of the year I had no problems with either tire and no flat spots!
gerard
Veteran Member
Yep - good stuff. Had my 12.2 24 rears done for $180 then kicked myself for waiting 8 years before I had it done! More stable, less tippy on slopes, better traction, and can do loader work with nothing on the rear if I want to.
funwithahoe
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2010
- Messages
- 376
This all seems like a lot of work and worry to avoid just throwing some antifreeze type solution in there! My dealer used windshield wiper fluid saying that CaCl will rust the rim out.
shaley
Platinum Member
Mine were filled to the top wth washer fluid. 3psi of pressure. The side walls sure did seem mushy until I let the fluid out down to the valve stem and put in 10 psi of air. Don't fill the tire past the stem at 12 oclcok.
Don87
Elite Member
Your post is worth a million dollars.
I have seen so many posts on here where people swear that you must lower the air pressure in the tire after filling it with fluid..............that is wrong information.
The tire must still have the proper amount of air in it, after being filled with liquid.(and/or the tread must be in full contact with the ground, best to judge on a hard surface like concrete)
Low air pressure in the tire can cause 'tire slippage' on the wheel..........especially when filled with fluid, because the fluid can seep through the bead with low air pressure, causing a slippery surface for the tire to 'slip' on.(not to mention the extra weight involved)
EDIT: Especially with Rimguard, it is slippery when wet..........but when it sets up, it is tacky, yet hard(if that makes sense).
funwithahoe
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2010
- Messages
- 376
I agree with 90% of your post but it is my understanding that the tire should be filled just past the valve so that the rim is always completely immersed which gives the rim rim less opportunity to rust. I think the air in the tire is vital so it allows the tire to "give" when you run over something as the air compresses (which liquid will not do).
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!
mcd176
Gold Member
Last winter in good old West By God Virginia I screwed up and didnt empty the water outta my tires and after a week of below freezing temps my tires froze solid, yes solid! I had to take the tires off and put them in my garage for a week at 70 degrees and drained them out, It was a royal PITA!!!! I have since had them filled with -20 windshield washer fluid.
Dead Horse
Platinum Member
Also 3psi is not enough to keep the tire from rolling off the rim in turning and loaded circumstances........ Doing that with a loaded tire is a major PITA.
Even the antique tractors use 7psi in the rear tires at the tractor pulls. Andi i agree, there is a LOT of win in that single post!
Don87
Elite Member
That would actually depend on the style of rim, and location of the valve stem, but yes, the correct fill for a tire would be enough so that the rim is totally immersed in the fluid to keep the rim from rusting.
Merry Christmas
