Please help me pick the right welder.

[Shield Arc]

If an engineer is bored by theory, he shouldn't be an engineer :thumbsup:

Ever heard the term "been there done that"?

 

[AKwelder]

I think the class is a good idea, and if it is a good class it should at least show you the different processes.

If you ask the teacher he may give you a good word of who to buy from. Most of those teachers are in tight with one parts house or another, and you may get a deal. Also they know who in the area may be selling something you want

Good luck, and keep us posted

 

[k0ua]

One more for the stick and the bandsaw. I bought a cheap welder, Everlast PowerArc 160 it is just like Shields except a little smaller. but I spend some money on a Grizzley bandsaw. I am not sorry about either. The bandsaw is worth the money. A lot of guys on here hate the Chinese Welders, I like mine so far. I have build several projects with it. You can do scratch start TIG with it. No HF start, no pedal to taper off, and post flow of gas is up to you to time.
Also will not do Aluminum. it is DC only. so steel only. but for your sawmill you need stick. and having a welder you can put on your shoulder and carry around ( about 25 pounds) might be handy for you in the field. The sawmill sounds like big thick steel to me.. a MIG will to do that size steel will be quite a bit of money. and then there is the gas outside thing., You can use flux core wire to get around that though and not need gas. The bandsaw is so much better than a Sawzall, I know that was all I had for many years also. You cannot make straight cuts with a sawzall. you can whack things off, but you cannot do fitups. I can make precise 45 degree mitres (or any degree for that matter) with my Grizzley bandsaw. It is just like using your table saw to make woodworking projects, only steel.. No loud noise, no sparks, very little heat. It is the way to go. All that said, I am a hobbyist steelworker, and I have opinions like everyone else, but you should pay more attention to the more professional guys on here, like 4shorts, and ShieldArc. and Mark from Everlast has a lot of experience too. course he sells Everlast welders. I dont weld for a living, (I am an engineer) but this is what I think you should do, get a good stick welder, for starters, and get a bandsaw.
James K0UA

 

[rjmack]

Edit: I forgot budget...whatever I save by not having someone else do it. I like the challenge of DIY. Somewhere in the 500-1500 range for all equipment seems reasonable. This includes helmet, startup consumables, clamps, gloves etc.

the items in this picture (and what you can't see in that tool box) will probably set you back more than $1500.00 and you don't even have a welding machine yet.

if you want some throw away junk welder for cheap... they are flogging them right here... i think i'll even buy one myself.

if you want something decent that you will be able to get parts for in 20 years...

a structural engineer shouldn't have much trouble finding out which are the two brands to buy, or being able to afford them..

 

[crazyal]

So you stick guys, how would you weld Aluminum or stainless for boiling sap? I'm not a big stick guy so I'm not up on all the things they can do.

 

[crazyal]

How long does a blade last on those portable bandsaws without being water/oil cooled?

I use a new Milwaukee hand held band saw. It's more powerful and cuts at a faster blade speed. The blades last a long time. Buy in bulk though. They sell them in single and three packs or you can buy them in unpackaged form from people on ebay and on the net. I think I paid about $3 each for Milwaukee 14/18 variable tooth blades.

I've noticed they don't usually dull. What happens is teeth break off and get stuck in what your cutting. You have to remember what dulls blades is cutting harden steel or cutting in a back and forth motion like a hacksaw or sawzall. When you pull the blade back you are in effect trying to cut with the back side of the teeth. If you do break a tooth off and you keep trying to cut you can break more teeth off until you end up with sections of blade with no teeth. If you stop and cut from a different direction you can get more life out of the blade.

My guess is maybe only 1 blade but it could take two or three to cut all the steel needed for small sawmill. Your sawzall will work but it will take quite a bit longer and will not be as accurate as the bandsaw.

 

[k0ua]

So you stick guys, how would you weld Aluminum or stainless for boiling sap? I'm not a big stick guy so I'm not up on all the things they can do.

Al. the results I have seen with Aluminum rods, is not good. Stainless some better with a stick machine.. but TIG with a proper HF Tig machine or MIG with proper wire/Spoolgun for Aluminum would be better.. As with all things and expert can get good result where the average person might not, but I have never seen any good beads with stick on Alum. Stuck together yes, but not pretty.
James K0UA

 

[dstig1]

My current need is to build a small sawmill. This involves lots of 1/4" HSS etc. There will be a lot of welding, so the cost of consumeables is important to me.

Well I ain't no expert here (by far...) but you said HSS...to me that means High Speed Steel. Which really isn't even all that close to steel with all the alloying elements added. You seriously looking to weld a sawmill from HSS? Or am I missing something? Of course I am a materials engineer, so HSS may mean something totally different to you...

Assuming I'm missing something here.... Consensus seems to be that for outdoor work, stick or flux core is the best route. You can find cheap stick welders if you are patient. I found a nice AC/DC Lincoln tombstone for $150 or thereabouts. You can do a lot with something like that. Certainly will work for any typical 1/4" weldable steel. SS rods are available, but the alum rods sound like a very much "emergency" sort of thing to use. So I'd say take the class, and start searching for a used stick welder (AC and DC, if you can). That will get you started for sure, and on the cheap. Then figure out if you need TIG or MIG for the rest of your work. You'll always have the stick for outdoor work, heavy stuff, etc.

my 2 centums

 

[General Lee]

My first career, I was a steel fabricator. Left that to pursue my dream career. Anyway, I'm not gonna give advice on which machine to get (stick or wire fed) because to me they both have their advantages. I will add this: Mig welders with argon are not user friendly outdoors. The slightest breeze and your weld is crap. For outdoor projects I would prefer a stick machine with low hydrogen rods. Although there is a learning curve with them, they give you the ability to weld upside down, vertical and flat. For nice looking welds when welding flat, I love the "jet rods" They are easy to learn with. I think they are 7024's. Low hydrogen is 6018 I believe. (Its been over 10 years) I do love a nice mig welder when working indoors. Once you get the hang of it, either machine will do as long as it has decent temp ranges to penetrate the steel. I don't like the flux core machine, would rather just pic up a stick welder. If you do choose a mig, get argon.

 

[tuolumne]

the items in this picture (and what you can't see in that tool box) will probably set you back more than $1500.00 and you don't even have a welding machine yet.

if you want some throw away junk welder for cheap... they are flogging them right here... i think i'll even buy one myself.

if you want something decent that you will be able to get parts for in 20 years...

a structural engineer shouldn't have much trouble finding out which are the two brands to buy, or being able to afford them..

...except that the structural engineer moved away from Big City and is trying to make a go of homesteading and odd jobs! I do have angle grinders, wire wheel and a place to work.

Folks keep talking about putting these welders on your shoulder and walking off. Just how long of an extension cord do you have!