Please help me pick the right welder.

[Shield Arc]

stainless rods don't need to be baked.

According to the Lincoln Bible.

"Stainless-steel shielded metal-arc electrode coverings are of the low-hydrogen type and must be protected from moisture pickup. Normally, electrodes packaged in hermetically sealed containers can be stored for several months without deteriorating. However, after the container is opened the coating begins to absorb moisture and, depending on the ambient air conditions, may need to be reconditioned after only four hours of exposure.

Usually, redrying at 500 degrees F for 1-hour restores the electrode to its original condition, and storing in a holding oven at 300 degrees F is satisfactory. Due to difference in material and processing, the supplier should be consulted if large amounts of electrodes are involved."

That being said: I have never stored Stainless Steel electrodes in an oven. The rods I have, I got when working in a Chevron refinery. I haven't done any real stainless work since the late 1970's.

 

[MBDiagMan]

To the OP. I would recommend that you get in some practice with your stick welding paying particular attention to the puddle seeing that you tie in well. Once you learn to move the puddle around you will be ready to stick weld with confidence.

A stick welder is cheap and versatile. With some practice you will gain confidence and be able to put things together to look good AND stay put. For the purposes you describe, stick with a stick.

My $0.02,

 

[Shield Arc]

Shield, I would also be very interested in what you can do with SMAW on stainless with all the info on what you used and what settings and technique etc. I have actually never tried it.
James K0UA

WHOA! Can sure tell these rods are old!
3/32 inch 316-L-16. DCEP, (used the 7018 lug on the PowerArc 200) 80-AMPS.




Had to beat the heck out of the slag to get it off of this fillet weld. This is very unusual, generally with stainless steel SMAW the slag will come off before you finish welding. You should always wear safety glasses when welding, but most especially when welding this, it will pop right off and get you in the eye, bet on it!

 

[k0ua]

Sheild, I am impressed, OMG rods as old as Methusala and some outstanding welds! I knew you were the guy for this test.. Thanks
James K0UA

 

[k0ua]

Shield over on the Miller site, there is a guy claims you can stick weld alum and make it look like TIG.. all the Alum welds I have seen with stick, were not airtight, and look like he**.. what say you? Have you ever run any of that Alum rod, and made it look like anything? here is the link.

How to Stick weld Aluminum

James K0UA

 

[Shield Arc]

Yes I know him, John McCracken, pipeliner from Northwest Arizona.

I've only tried aluminum SMAW a couple times, last time was about 1985. I never had any luck with it.
I would like to see an aluminum SMAW weld that looks just like Tig aluminum myself. Any aluminum Tig weld that has as much splatter as SMAW has, something is very wrong with it!:laughing:

 

[k0ua]

Yeah, that is kinda what I thought. You sure did good with that stainless tho. Maybe you just have to hold your mouth right to get that alum rod to run. I have tried to torch weld alum. with bad results also, but I have seen on U-tube some guys do a great job with that. With proper flux and technique it can look great. (and proper goggles to hide the sodium flare) I welded up a hole in my airtank that had rusted through,, but it wasn't aluminum tho:laughing: If it was aluminum, I would have JB welded it:laughing:
James K0UA

 

[Shield Arc]

If those aluminum SMAW rods weren't so darn expensive I'd buy some and give it another go.
I've never done much aluminum work, being a structural weldor, 90 to 95% of my welding has been gas less flux core.
Here's a couple of my aluminum Tig welds.