Recommendations for 14"/16" chainsaw?

[LD1]

Have you used the PS34/DCS34?

I have used it for several years, and I like it. And I have used a big
expensive Dolmar, too.

I am really liking my just-acquired Shindaiwa. Today I used it to cut up
a 2500 gal polyethylene water tank.

No I actually haven't. And I am sure it is still a better quality saw than you will find at most box stores. But the saw just isn't built for hard use or built to last as long (plastic case). And on paper, it lacks power. The saw is built for "ocassional" use.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well, I won an ebay auction for the Dolmar 420 ($244 plus $20shipping). Waiting now to see when (if ) it arrives.

As noted above, it was my first choice amongst a really good group of saws mostly because of the "prosumer" level case etc and very positive reviews by experienced guys on arboristsite.com. In the end I chose to accept a slightly heavier saw than I was originally looking for to get this extra durability factor. The Dolmar 420 has a 16 inch bar, 42cc engine putting out 2.7hp and weighs 10.5lbs so is a bit bigger than most of the competitive saws I spec'd. I also opted for ebay rather than search for a good dealer as the primary factor in choosing because 1) I am lazy, 2) I would not really benefit much from a local dealer due to my island location, 3) comfort level working with internet sourced parts and advice.

Honestly the process of researching this was very interesting. All of the responders to my original post had thoughtful considerations for me to think about. My main conclusion is that I think each of the main quality manufacturers have great saws in this size/price range and I would have also been happy choosing the Husky,ECHO or Stihl models noted earlier. I would have chosen one of those rather than pay the $329 list price at my local dealer for the Dolmar if I had chosen not to go the ebay route.

In a funny way this process reminded me of "what tractor should I buy in the 30hp range" problem where there really is no single best answer and a lot of excellent choices. And, as it turns out, I had multiple excellent orange choices this time too.:thumbsup:

Thanks again for your insights and recommendations.

 

[peterc38]

Well, I won an ebay auction for the Dolmar 420 ($244 plus $20shipping). Waiting now to see when (if ) it arrives.

As noted above, it was my first choice amongst a really good group of saws mostly because of the "prosumer" level case etc and very positive reviews by experienced guys on arboristsite.com. In the end I chose to accept a slightly heavier saw than I was originally looking for to get this extra durability factor. The Dolmar 420 has a 16 inch bar, 42cc engine putting out 2.7hp and weighs 10.5lbs so is a bit bigger than most of the competitive saws I spec'd. I also opted for ebay rather than search for a good dealer as the primary factor in choosing because 1) I am lazy, 2) I would not really benefit much from a local dealer due to my island location, 3) comfort level working with internet sourced parts and advice.

Honestly the process of researching this was very interesting. All of the responders to my original post had thoughtful considerations for me to think about. My main conclusion is that I think each of the main quality manufacturers have great saws in this size/price range and I would have also been happy choosing the Husky,ECHO or Stihl models noted earlier. I would have chosen one of those rather than pay the $329 list price at my local dealer for the Dolmar if I had chosen not to go the ebay route.

In a funny way this process reminded me of "what tractor should I buy in the 30hp range" problem where there really is no single best answer and a lot of excellent choices. And, as it turns out, I had multiple excellent orange choices this time too.:thumbsup:

Thanks again for your insights and recommendations.

Sounds like you did good, congrats on the new saw. :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Excellent buy at a great price. I think you will be more than happy when it arrives.

Now all you have to do is get us some pics and let us know how she runs. If it's like our 350 (it should be) the AV is amazing. You cant even feel the saw in your hands.:thumbsup:

 

[dfkrug]

But the saw just isn't built for hard use or built to last as long (plastic case). And on paper, it lacks power. The saw is built for "ocassional" use.

Well, I am no chainsaw fanatic, but I have taken apart and fixed many of
them.

I have what is left of a "pro" saw here, a Stihl 066, 92 cc unit. The
chassis with integrated oil and fuel tanks and rear handle is all plastic. I
suspect that any newer pro saw is plastic now in these areas. Plastics are
not all bad, but some areas are better made of Al.

Once upon a time, chainsaws were all-aluminum, but weighed a lot. My
old Echo 451VL used plastic only for the air filter cover.

I have noticed these things about the more expensive saws, big or small:
> the forward hoop handle is aluminum, not plastic (e.g. Al handles: Stihl
066, Shindaiwa 377; plastic handles: Stihl 029, MS170, Husky 455,
Makita DCS34)
> the bar spike is steel. Cheaper small saws have either no bar spike, or
it is plastic and part of the plastic chassis. My first small saw with a
steel spike is my Shindaiwa 377
> ever have a chain come off? There is usually a "chain-catcher" under
the clutch cover. The cheapest have none, and a loose chain can
tear up the plastic
> I don't see a pattern with the carbs...the cheapest and most expensive
saws often seem to have Walbro carbs....maybe Walbro makes pro-grade
and consumer-grade carbs? I don't know and can't tell by looking.

Maybe others have more specifics to add to this...

One thing I have discovered about parts: I can get any Stihl or Husky parts
in a few days by mail (so far, anyway). I still await the arrival of my 1st
Makita chainsaw parts order.

 

[LD1]

Yes most "pro" grade saws do have a lot of plastic.

Most of them have a plastic recoil cover, plastic chain brake cover, plastic top covers, and even plastic chainbrake handels.

But where the differences stop is in the case of the saw. IE: the two halves you pull appart to remove the crankshaft. These are magnesium (similar to aluminum only lighter and stronger). On a consumer/homeowner grade saw, these are plastic as well.

Typically, the two MAJOR things that differ between "pro" and homeowner are pros have the magnesium case, and an adjustable oiler.

Lately, the lines are blurring even more with the midrange saws. It seems most of them are built everybit as well as the pro saws, they even have the mag cases and adjustable oilers. But they just dont seem to have the power to weight ratios as their pro counterparts. Either the mfg's leave them intentionally heavy, or they de-tune them a bit, or both. Mainly for marketing purposes I'd imagine.

It used to be there were two types, homeowner and pro. Homeowners wanted a little better qualitry and longer lasting saw, and was willing to sacrifice the high end performance for a little better price tag. And thus we have several "landowner" mid-range saws now.

 

[dfkrug]

But where the differences stop is in the case of the saw. IE: the two halves you pull appart to remove the crankshaft. These are magnesium (similar to aluminum only lighter and stronger). On a consumer/homeowner grade saw, these are plastic as well.

I have never opened a saw that had a plastic crankcase. Even a cheapo
Poulan WildThing that I have lying here. They all seem to be cast
Al alloy, and they are completely covered by the plastic case halves so
you are not likely to ever see it.

As for Al alloy versus Mg alloy, you can't tell which is which just by
looking.

The chain oiler is adjustable on my Rancher 455, but not on my Makita.
On the Shindaiwa, the manual says YES, but I don't see an adjuster.
I do see a +/- mark.

 

[LD1]

I have never opened a saw that had a plastic crankcase. Even a cheapo
Poulan WildThing that I have lying here. They all seem to be cast
Al alloy, and they are completely covered by the plastic case halves so
you are not likely to ever see it.

As for Al alloy versus Mg alloy, you can't tell which is which just by
looking.

The chain oiler is adjustable on my Rancher 455, but not on my Makita.
On the Shindaiwa, the manual says YES, but I don't see an adjuster.
I do see a +/- mark.

If it has the +/- mark, I would think it would be there somewhere

What model is it??

 

[dfkrug]

If it has the +/- mark, I would think it would be there somewhere

What model is it??

Seems strange to me, too. The parts diagram shows the pump.

I have also noticed that the parts prices for this Shindaiwa 377 are less
than the equivalents for the Makita.

Another thing: there is no primer bulb for the 377, yet it starts easily at 40F.
I do not know the year it was made. Primer bulbs seem to harden up and
crack after 5-7 years of age, possibly due to ethanol in the gas.

When I get a new chain, this saw will be perfect.

 

[LD1]

Seems strange to me, too. The parts diagram shows the pump.

I have also noticed that the parts prices for this Shindaiwa 377 are less
than the equivalents for the Makita.

Another thing: there is no primer bulb for the 377, yet it starts easily at 40F.
I do not know the year it was made. Primer bulbs seem to harden up and
crack after 5-7 years of age, possibly due to ethanol in the gas.

When I get a new chain, this saw will be perfect.

The little Dolmar PS350 we have is the first and only saw we have ever had that has the primer bulb. I have never had any trouble starting any of the other ones unless there was something else wrong with the saw to begin with. I am actually not too fond of the primer. But I guess only time will tell how long it will last.