Recommendations for 14"/16" chainsaw?

[tsteahr]

Well, after lots of internet research, I think I have narrowed the choices down a bit.

Leading contender:
Dolmar 420 at $265 delivered via ebay or $330 locally

Also considering:
Dolmar 350 at $250
Husqvarna 440e at $289
Stihl MS180cbe at $230 and MS210cbe at $290
Echo cs370 at $265

From what I have read these are all excellent 14 or 16" saws with many happy owners. I'm sure I'd be happy with any of them. They are all fairly lightweight (at about or under 10lbs) so should be good for cutting up brush and delimbing trees.

I'm leaning towards the Dolmar 420 due to the magnesium construction and "prosumer" rating while the others at similar price points are more clearly fine consumer grade saws. Against the Dolmar is the potential for service hassles though I did finally discover there is a dealer in Eastern MA. I am unimpressed with the Dolmar USA operation though. Their website dealer locator is broken and a phone call to headquarters to find a local dealer went to an answering machine. I get the impression they have a just as good a dealer network as Kioti does.:laughing: Still, I am used to that by now and the combo of internet and UPS is something I have gotten quite comfortable with for service.

Now I need to decide whether to buy one sight unseen via internet based on reputation or whether to dedicate next weekend to visiting dealers.

Any others I should think about in this price/performance range?

Perhaps at this point it would be wise to choose the best local dealer from the brands you are interested in. You have narrowed your list down to a selection of all good units. What may be more important than the finer points between one model and another is the service of your dealer.

I have chosen to get all my outdoor power equipment (saws, trimmer, blower) from a good local dealer. In addition I bought my protective gear, pruning sheers, etc from this dealer as well. In doing so I have established a relationship where I walk in and the owner greets me by name. I have had a problem on a Saturday morning and the owner with his mechanic stayed past closing time to get my problem fixed and get me up and running. For me, that kind of service is more important then subtle differences between what are all top quality brands.

I picked a dealer that many of the local landscape guys around here use. Not the fanciest showroom, but stocks the entire product line and keeps a good selection of spares on hand.

So my 2 cents are to pick your dealer and use him. If you don't get the service you are looking for then move on. If you do, then you know you have a keeper, even if the brand down the road gives you the same specs for a few dollars less.

Best of luck!

 

[IslandTractor]

If you do decide to go with Stihl, I'd skip both those models in favor of the MS211 which can also be had for under 300 clams and is a superior saw to both the MS180 and MS210.

As best I can tell the MS211 is the same as the MS210 except for some carb modifications. Stihl seems to have added a single digit to almost all their model numbers to reflect the new environmentally kinder carberator use.

 

[ultrarunner]

As best I can tell the MS211 is the same as the MS210 except for some carb modifications. Stihl seems to have added a single digit to almost all their model numbers to reflect the new environmentally kinder carberator use.

My understanding too...

 

[IslandTractor]

Perhaps at this point it would be wise to choose the best local dealer from the brands you are interested in. You have narrowed your list down to a selection of all good units. What may be more important than the finer points between one model and another is the service of your dealer. !

Good point. I've thought about this issue too. My situation is that I use the saw on an island so can literally never run down to the dealer for help or parts and get back the same day. As such, relying on the internet and UPS for parts has become my routine for both tractor and other tools. Still, I know that for Stihl saws I will need to find a local dealer and haven't ruled anything out at this point.

 

[LD1]

You wont be disappointed with a PS420. And at $265, It will save you some money over some of the others you mentioned.

 

[dfkrug]

And the PS34 is at the bottom of the dolmar barrel. As mentioned, it is a cheaper homeowner grade saw. If the only experience one has with dolmars is a PS34, I can see why they wouldn't think they were a good saw.

Have you used the PS34/DCS34?

I have used it for several years, and I like it. And I have used a big
expensive Dolmar, too.

I am really liking my just-acquired Shindaiwa. Today I used it to cut up
a 2500 gal polyethylene water tank.

 

[IslandTractor]

I did consider the Dolmar PS34 but they have been discontinued so they are hard to come by. The Makita version is available. In looking into this whole thing I did come to see the advantage of the slightly larger 350/420 but felt the PS34 was every bit as much saw as the smaller Stihl 180/192 or the Echo 310. I've just decided to go up one rung on the size.

 

[KubotainNH]

I bought a small Echo from Home Depot for $199. My friend talked me into it, he said it's what all the linemen used for the power company his father worked for. Love how light it is and easy to start. Hasn't let me down in the 6 or so years I've had it. It's not a powerhouse but I was looking for lightness not power. I use my FIL's monster saw when I need more power. The Echo still looks brand new.

 

[alaskakubota]

I have three saws and my favorite is the ms180 stihl. Half the weight of my 18 inch saw and cuts nice. I paid 180 bucks for it two years ago. Not one problem.

 

[peterc38]

As best I can tell the MS211 is the same as the MS210 except for some carb modifications. Stihl seems to have added a single digit to almost all their model numbers to reflect the new environmentally kinder carberator use.

Not quite. MS 211 has improved air filter and anti-vibe. Also, MS210 has a worse power to weight ratio as it is built on MS250 chassis whereas MS211 is built on MS181 chassis (In fact I believe MS210 has worst power to weight ratio of any Stihl but not sure).

Specs are:

MS210 35.2 cc, 2.0 HP, 9.9 .lbs

MS211 35.2 cc, 2.3 HP, 9.5 .lbs

 

[LD1]

Have you used the PS34/DCS34?

I have used it for several years, and I like it. And I have used a big
expensive Dolmar, too.

I am really liking my just-acquired Shindaiwa. Today I used it to cut up
a 2500 gal polyethylene water tank.

No I actually haven't. And I am sure it is still a better quality saw than you will find at most box stores. But the saw just isn't built for hard use or built to last as long (plastic case). And on paper, it lacks power. The saw is built for "ocassional" use.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well, I won an ebay auction for the Dolmar 420 ($244 plus $20shipping). Waiting now to see when (if ) it arrives.

As noted above, it was my first choice amongst a really good group of saws mostly because of the "prosumer" level case etc and very positive reviews by experienced guys on arboristsite.com. In the end I chose to accept a slightly heavier saw than I was originally looking for to get this extra durability factor. The Dolmar 420 has a 16 inch bar, 42cc engine putting out 2.7hp and weighs 10.5lbs so is a bit bigger than most of the competitive saws I spec'd. I also opted for ebay rather than search for a good dealer as the primary factor in choosing because 1) I am lazy, 2) I would not really benefit much from a local dealer due to my island location, 3) comfort level working with internet sourced parts and advice.

Honestly the process of researching this was very interesting. All of the responders to my original post had thoughtful considerations for me to think about. My main conclusion is that I think each of the main quality manufacturers have great saws in this size/price range and I would have also been happy choosing the Husky,ECHO or Stihl models noted earlier. I would have chosen one of those rather than pay the $329 list price at my local dealer for the Dolmar if I had chosen not to go the ebay route.

In a funny way this process reminded me of "what tractor should I buy in the 30hp range" problem where there really is no single best answer and a lot of excellent choices. And, as it turns out, I had multiple excellent orange choices this time too.:thumbsup:

Thanks again for your insights and recommendations.

 

[peterc38]

Well, I won an ebay auction for the Dolmar 420 ($244 plus $20shipping). Waiting now to see when (if ) it arrives.

As noted above, it was my first choice amongst a really good group of saws mostly because of the "prosumer" level case etc and very positive reviews by experienced guys on arboristsite.com. In the end I chose to accept a slightly heavier saw than I was originally looking for to get this extra durability factor. The Dolmar 420 has a 16 inch bar, 42cc engine putting out 2.7hp and weighs 10.5lbs so is a bit bigger than most of the competitive saws I spec'd. I also opted for ebay rather than search for a good dealer as the primary factor in choosing because 1) I am lazy, 2) I would not really benefit much from a local dealer due to my island location, 3) comfort level working with internet sourced parts and advice.

Honestly the process of researching this was very interesting. All of the responders to my original post had thoughtful considerations for me to think about. My main conclusion is that I think each of the main quality manufacturers have great saws in this size/price range and I would have also been happy choosing the Husky,ECHO or Stihl models noted earlier. I would have chosen one of those rather than pay the $329 list price at my local dealer for the Dolmar if I had chosen not to go the ebay route.

In a funny way this process reminded me of "what tractor should I buy in the 30hp range" problem where there really is no single best answer and a lot of excellent choices. And, as it turns out, I had multiple excellent orange choices this time too.:thumbsup:

Thanks again for your insights and recommendations.

Sounds like you did good, congrats on the new saw. :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Excellent buy at a great price. I think you will be more than happy when it arrives.

Now all you have to do is get us some pics and let us know how she runs. If it's like our 350 (it should be) the AV is amazing. You cant even feel the saw in your hands.:thumbsup:

 

[dfkrug]

But the saw just isn't built for hard use or built to last as long (plastic case). And on paper, it lacks power. The saw is built for "ocassional" use.

Well, I am no chainsaw fanatic, but I have taken apart and fixed many of
them.

I have what is left of a "pro" saw here, a Stihl 066, 92 cc unit. The
chassis with integrated oil and fuel tanks and rear handle is all plastic. I
suspect that any newer pro saw is plastic now in these areas. Plastics are
not all bad, but some areas are better made of Al.

Once upon a time, chainsaws were all-aluminum, but weighed a lot. My
old Echo 451VL used plastic only for the air filter cover.

I have noticed these things about the more expensive saws, big or small:
> the forward hoop handle is aluminum, not plastic (e.g. Al handles: Stihl
066, Shindaiwa 377; plastic handles: Stihl 029, MS170, Husky 455,
Makita DCS34)
> the bar spike is steel. Cheaper small saws have either no bar spike, or
it is plastic and part of the plastic chassis. My first small saw with a
steel spike is my Shindaiwa 377
> ever have a chain come off? There is usually a "chain-catcher" under
the clutch cover. The cheapest have none, and a loose chain can
tear up the plastic
> I don't see a pattern with the carbs...the cheapest and most expensive
saws often seem to have Walbro carbs....maybe Walbro makes pro-grade
and consumer-grade carbs? I don't know and can't tell by looking.

Maybe others have more specifics to add to this...

One thing I have discovered about parts: I can get any Stihl or Husky parts
in a few days by mail (so far, anyway). I still await the arrival of my 1st
Makita chainsaw parts order.

 

[LD1]

Yes most "pro" grade saws do have a lot of plastic.

Most of them have a plastic recoil cover, plastic chain brake cover, plastic top covers, and even plastic chainbrake handels.

But where the differences stop is in the case of the saw. IE: the two halves you pull appart to remove the crankshaft. These are magnesium (similar to aluminum only lighter and stronger). On a consumer/homeowner grade saw, these are plastic as well.

Typically, the two MAJOR things that differ between "pro" and homeowner are pros have the magnesium case, and an adjustable oiler.

Lately, the lines are blurring even more with the midrange saws. It seems most of them are built everybit as well as the pro saws, they even have the mag cases and adjustable oilers. But they just dont seem to have the power to weight ratios as their pro counterparts. Either the mfg's leave them intentionally heavy, or they de-tune them a bit, or both. Mainly for marketing purposes I'd imagine.

It used to be there were two types, homeowner and pro. Homeowners wanted a little better qualitry and longer lasting saw, and was willing to sacrifice the high end performance for a little better price tag. And thus we have several "landowner" mid-range saws now.

 

[dfkrug]

But where the differences stop is in the case of the saw. IE: the two halves you pull appart to remove the crankshaft. These are magnesium (similar to aluminum only lighter and stronger). On a consumer/homeowner grade saw, these are plastic as well.

I have never opened a saw that had a plastic crankcase. Even a cheapo
Poulan WildThing that I have lying here. They all seem to be cast
Al alloy, and they are completely covered by the plastic case halves so
you are not likely to ever see it.

As for Al alloy versus Mg alloy, you can't tell which is which just by
looking.

The chain oiler is adjustable on my Rancher 455, but not on my Makita.
On the Shindaiwa, the manual says YES, but I don't see an adjuster.
I do see a +/- mark.

 

[LD1]

I have never opened a saw that had a plastic crankcase. Even a cheapo
Poulan WildThing that I have lying here. They all seem to be cast
Al alloy, and they are completely covered by the plastic case halves so
you are not likely to ever see it.

As for Al alloy versus Mg alloy, you can't tell which is which just by
looking.

The chain oiler is adjustable on my Rancher 455, but not on my Makita.
On the Shindaiwa, the manual says YES, but I don't see an adjuster.
I do see a +/- mark.

If it has the +/- mark, I would think it would be there somewhere

What model is it??

 

[dfkrug]

If it has the +/- mark, I would think it would be there somewhere

What model is it??

Seems strange to me, too. The parts diagram shows the pump.

I have also noticed that the parts prices for this Shindaiwa 377 are less
than the equivalents for the Makita.

Another thing: there is no primer bulb for the 377, yet it starts easily at 40F.
I do not know the year it was made. Primer bulbs seem to harden up and
crack after 5-7 years of age, possibly due to ethanol in the gas.

When I get a new chain, this saw will be perfect.

 

[LD1]

Seems strange to me, too. The parts diagram shows the pump.

I have also noticed that the parts prices for this Shindaiwa 377 are less
than the equivalents for the Makita.

Another thing: there is no primer bulb for the 377, yet it starts easily at 40F.
I do not know the year it was made. Primer bulbs seem to harden up and
crack after 5-7 years of age, possibly due to ethanol in the gas.

When I get a new chain, this saw will be perfect.

The little Dolmar PS350 we have is the first and only saw we have ever had that has the primer bulb. I have never had any trouble starting any of the other ones unless there was something else wrong with the saw to begin with. I am actually not too fond of the primer. But I guess only time will tell how long it will last.