Connecting up the hydraulics

   / Connecting up the hydraulics #1  

ctgoldwing

Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
555
Location
Central Connecticut
Tractor
L3800HST
Well the Normand blower is all set now :)

I needed the hydraulics hooked up to control the chute rotation (hyd motor) and deflector (hyd piston).

So first the dual valves were mounted on the right rear fender.
1a.jpg


Then the line that fed the backhoe was disconnected at the pump and fed to the valves. The discharge side of the valves now feed the backhoe.

A small plate was clamped to the ROPS and the 2 pairs of control lines were routed through there.
2a.jpg



Here are a couple more shots of the finished product. The best part is it works!

3a.jpg


4a.jpg


5a.jpg



Oh yeah, its snowing now :thumbsup:
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics #2  
Great job! Very tidy!

Just curious, why the extra connectors in-line on the chute hoses?
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics #3  
That looks good! Hope you get enough snow..
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics #4  
Happiness is having rear remotes!!! Looks very, very nice :thumbsup:
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics #6  
Nice work ! Maybe you'll get to try it out this weekend ??
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Nice work ! Maybe you'll get to try it out this weekend ??

good call Ductape :)

We got the best part of a foot of snow last night. It was a double pleasure blowing this morning - the hydraulics work great and there was NO wind :thumbsup:

You guys up north must have been nicked by this storm too?

snow_1-8-11.jpg
 
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   / Connecting up the hydraulics #8  
good call Ductape :)

We got the best part of a foot of snow last night. It was a double pleasure blowing this morning - the hydraulics work great and there was NO wind :thumbsup:

You guys up north must have been nicked by this storm too?

snow_1-8-11.jpg



Very nice job with the hoses; the one thing you will find is they will sag with heat and age but that is remedied by using a rubber bungee or even better a stand off connected to the blower housing with a hook or round stock made into a circle to support the hoses on the end of the stand off.
I am glad to see the hose protection sleeves too.

Do you know what the pressure setting of the relief valve is on the valve body?


Only asking because the motor has a very high torque at low and high pressure.


Not trying to spend your money really ;)just dont want the system pressure and flow to cause any damage to the chute base.

To control the motor speed you can install a needle valve on each hose to the motor to stop it from rotating to fast in either direction- BUT if the motor has flow control with flow restrictors/reducers in the oil ports I will stop yapping :0-
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Very nice job with the hoses; the one thing you will find is they will sag with heat and age but that is remedied by using a rubber bungee or even better a stand off connected to the blower housing with a hook or round stock made into a circle to support the hoses on the end of the stand off.
I am glad to see the hose protection sleeves too.

Do you know what the pressure setting of the relief valve is on the valve body?


Only asking because the motor has a very high torque at low and high pressure.


Not trying to spend your money really ;) just dont want the system pressure and flow to cause any damage to the chute base.

To control the motor speed you can install a needle valve on each hose to the motor to stop it from rotating to fast in either direction- BUT if the motor has flow control with flow restrictors/reducers in the oil ports I will stop yapping :0-

Leonz thanks for the comments. I have been considering the same issues, especially the end of travel of the chute rotation.

When the hydraulics were done I rotated the chute to the end :( I wanted to see if it would stall. Uhhh, no it won't. It tried to continue but there were no more teeth on the chute side. So I was thinking how to reduce the force that the motor produces.

From what I understand about hydraulics (granted, not much) the needle valve will reduce the amount of flow, slowing the motor. When it reaches the end of the travel though the flow will pretty much stop and the pressure to the motor will be the full tractor pressure - putting the same force on the motor. . .

I thought if I put a pressure regulator on both lines to the motor (2 check valves feeding a relief valve???) would slow the motor down and hopefully stall at the end of travel.

But then again, since I'm the only one using the tractor. . .
 
   / Connecting up the hydraulics #10  
Do you have a link to the spool you used?

Surplus Center - Needle valve

I used the 3/8" needle valve, these only need one, it controls flow in both direction and you can dial it down to completely cut off flow or have it wide open. I accidentally had it cut off... Thought that I screwed up something because it was not moving.
 
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