Bx25 use on a steep hill

[Ken45101]

I added ballast by having the rear tires foamed filled and noticed an immediate improvement all around... more stable, better traction and better loader dynamics...

I was going to suggest having the rear tires filled although I was going to recommend Rimguard. Loaded tires will help provide stability.

Unfortunately, from what I've heard, there is little or no warning if a tractor starts to tip. I've heard people say that before they knew what was happening, they were overturned Be careful!

Ken

 

[radioman]

Thank you for asking this question. I have a BX24 and have asked the same question on another forum. I was given the same info as here. 30,000 tractors guys can't be wrong right?

I guess not. :thumbsup:

 

[Volfandt]

re. BX (or any tractor being operated on steep hills).
As been posted, go up / down and avoid going sideways. Don't traverse sideways on a steep incline. A small rock can be all thats needed to flip ANY tractor in this situation, whether it's carrying a load or not.

You'll get the most braking control in 4wd. Make it a habit to engage and stay in 4wd whenever you operate on an incline.
The footbrake on the BX25 is much improved over the previous models but you'll get your best control (and braking) using the HST and 4wd to control your speed.

The std BX has a low center of gravity but when you add an FEL & BH you've raised it above the axles which will make it VERY tippy when loaded w/material.
Anytime your transporting an FEL full of material, keep it as low to the ground as possible as this effectively lowers your center of gravity.
Even if your operating on flat ground, a full FEL raised high can flip a tractor by running over something as small a a slight hole (depression) or rock.

Loaded rear wheels (rimguard is the best IMHO) will help to keep the rears down on the ground. Wheel weights are also good.

I've had my BX23 teetering on 2 wheels before, even when I've followed all the rules, so you also need to have your situational awareness on high any and everytime you operate a tractor of any size. A BX TLB may be small but it can also be VERY dangerous.
Be careful
Dave

 

[radioman]

sounds like you haven't done a dry run yet. Usually it will tell you all you need to know.

 

[ultrarunner]

I was going to suggest having the rear tires filled although I was going to recommend Rimguard. Loaded tires will help provide stability.

Unfortunately, from what I've heard, there is little or no warning if a tractor starts to tip. I've heard people say that before they knew what was happening, they were overturned Be careful!

Ken

Definitely err on the side of caution... I've had family members wanting to "Try" my tractor. I always say it wouldn't be a problem if my land was flat... the only flat sections are the ones I've made...

 

[leonz]

I live on a hill and I need to move lots of dirt /rock to river bank?
How does the bx25 work on hills?
Thanks stevee

The safety guideline and recommended rule is anything above 15 degrees you back up and drive down no matter the circumstance.

You should invest in a tilt meter as it is a wise investment for your safety.

Having the rear tires loaded with windshield washer fluid or rim guard is a must as calcium will rust the rims if the tube develops a hole in it.

The issue is traction and more traction as you only have so much tire tread touching the ground and only so much lug tread touching the ground at any time.

The minute it get wet its a case of zero traction and zero control if you start sliding loaded or unloaded.


It may be better for you to contact the Mattracks folks to invest in a set of
tracks for your tractor as you intend to move this material from the elevation to the river bank if this is something you seriously intend to pursue or enquire how much it would cost to rent a tracked loader for a day to accomplish the same task.

A set of "Mattracks" will provide you with more traction but as they are a smooth track it wil affect traction and perhaps a set of Bridgestone Polar tracks for the Mattracks may be in order.

The other thing to keeep in mind at all times is they will slide on a slope as the smaller cleats will act like sled runners.


The easier method would be to build a road to reduce the incline by making several switch back turns which in turn will provide you with a lower incline or decline and the tractor speed will be very slow in either direction.


You will have a longer path but a safer traverse of the slope to transport material.

 

[steveintn]

thanks everyone. yes steep is a relative term. i will try to post a picture.

 

[Ken45101]

Just to emphasize what others have said about keeping it in 4wd:

We have a hillside in our yard. One time while mowing (up and down) with the B2701, I had it in 2WD. Slid right down the hill, brakes useless because (unlike a car), they only apply to the rear wheels in 2WD. I hit the field fence, cracked one post and popped the staples out of another.

This was just an unloaded tractor with a mid mount mower.

It's a funny feeling when you stomp on the brakes and it has zero effect :confused2:

Ken

 

[Tom_H]

I won't repeat all the good advice already given, but will just make a couple of quick points.

When I move material like this, I travel very slowly, maybe two inches per second. As the terrain changes, adjust the FEL very delicately, trying to keep it one inch off the ground. If tipping does begin, you are more likely to sense it and the FEL will bottom out as soon as any wheel begins to lift.

What tire type do you have? Ags are definitely the best choice for this application.

What are the soil conditions like in terms of friction and how well the tires will be able to grip or slip? Do you have dry dusty clay, sand, gravel, exposed solid rock, dry grass with roots intact in soil? How much moisture is in the soil? Is it packed or are there soft spots along the route you plan to take?

Someone mentioned skidding down a hill with useless brakes. I haven't done this, as my slopes are not long enough runs to get into a runaway situation, but if your run is that long, you might trail the bh with the boom straight and the bucket curled, teeth down. If you loose traction and start to slide, be ready to pull the lever and impale the bh teeth to get some drag. You can also drop the FEL and let the bottom scrape. I would do the bh first though in order to have the resistance in back of the tractor rather than in front of it. It would seem you are more likely to put the chassis into a slow spin with greater drag in front. Once you go into a spin, a roll could follow. A lot of what I am saying is speculation based on having lived at Tahoe for a few years and having driven on black ice on hills in a rear wheel drive pickup. I rode out more slow skids and 360s than I care to remember.

 

[ultrarunner]

^^^ Slow and easy is the way to go... you're not on the clock and remember it's not supposed to be work.