Is the lower radiator heater cord shot??

[dourobob]

Had some rad problems and discovered a leak at the lower rad hose heater.
Fixed the leak - a couple of loosened clamps - but now the heater is not working.

I took some pictures (worth many words I think) and am wondering if anyone knows whether it might be the cord that is faulty. The other end of the cord is plugged into a 120 circuit.

If not, how can I check the heater element?

Ideas welcomed.

Two more pics on next entry

Thanks Bob

 

[dourobob]

Two more photos

Just a reminder - the other end of the cord is plugged into a 120 circuit.

Thanks again

 

[Willl]

Here's my guess Bob.

Using your pic #2, top 2 spade terms are your klixon/temp controller, center peg your ground term and bottom 2 pegs your heater terms.

Power comes in off your cord to one of the top spades. If your temp control is closed, it continues out the other spade thru plug and into one of the bottom heater terms, thru your heater element, out the other bottom term and out the cord.

Is your 'temp control' closed ?

Edit add on; Take an ohm reading between the top 2 spades, this will tell use if your control is closed. It'd be useful to know what temp it activates at. Maybe it's too warm to 'click' on ?
Take another ohm reading between bottom 2 pegs. Not sure what it's supposed to be, but should get 'something'.
And while your there, a reading from heater base to each of the bottom pegs one at a time. That reading should be zilch (or no reaction from meter).

 

[Willl]

Unplug your cord and using your ohm meter you can verify who's who between plug ends.

 

[Willl]

It'd be useful to know what temp it activates at.

You might be able to Google that number on your temp control and find what temp it activates at.

 

[dourobob]

Take an ohm reading between the top 2 spades, this will tell use if your control is closed. It'd be useful to know what temp it activates at. Maybe it's too warm to 'click' on ?

Take another ohm reading between bottom 2 pegs. Not sure what it's supposed to be, but should get 'something'.
And while your there, a reading from heater base to each of the bottom pegs one at a time. That reading should be zilch (or no reaction from meter).

Hi Will
Thanks for the detailed advice
I hope to get some time at this later today.

Doubt if it is too warm for the control to "click on" :laughing: - it was -15C (about zero Fahrenheit) in the barn when I checked it yesterday.

Full report later.
Bob

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Yep the round gizmo in the first picture is your thermostat. That should read a very low resistance when the temperature is cold enough. That will conduct the electricity through the heating element and warm your tank. My first guess would be the heating element has opened up.

 

[dourobob]

Well, I got a couple of minutes this morning and here is what I found.

I don't have a lot of experience using the meter for ohm readings - I set it at the lowest range which is 200 and took the recommended readings three times just to try and be sure

Take an ohm reading between the top 2 spades, this will tell use if your control is closed.
It read 1.1

Take another ohm reading between bottom 2 pegs. Not sure what it's supposed to be, but should get 'something'.
This read between 44.1 and 44.7

And while your there, a reading from heater base to each of the bottom pegs one at a time. That reading should be zilch (or no reaction from meter).
The meter did not change so I assume that is "zilch"

Now that I have these numbers, what do they mean?
Defective cord?
Defective heater element?
or ???

Thanks for your patience and knowledge.

Bob

 

[Willl]

Sounds like your control. With it being that cold, that control should be closed.

Recheck it with your ohm meter just to double check.
You should be getting the same exact reading as you would touching your meter probes together. 0.0 ohms.

 

[dourobob]

Sounds like your control. With it being that cold, that control should be closed.
Recheck it with your ohm meter just to double check.

Tried it again and got the same readings with the same meter.

Also tried it with a different meter (again just to be sure) - this one has its lowest scale at 2000 ohm (not 200 ohm like the other one) but it also has what it refers to as a "continuity beep".

While the meter went from showing "1" to showing "0000" between the two spade connectors on pic 2 and between the two posts at the bottom of pic 2, there was a audible beep.

I believe that means there is continuity where there should not be.

If I understand your analysis Will - the heater element is toast and needs to be replaced.

Am I correct?

Thanks
Bob