Block Heater working but not working

[greg0145]

The block heater in my 5-year-old TC40D is drawing current (300-400 watts per hour) but is not effective this season. It has worked great in previous winters. My coolant level was also low, requiring nearly a gallon of antifreeze/water to fill the reservoir, and I was curious if the low water level may have damaged the block heater or made it not effective.

 

[Craig Clayton]

If the element is a block heater type and went dry it is a 50/50 whether you damaged it or not. Check with a Ohm meter between the black and white for you resistance value and then check between the black and or white to the ground pin and or the engine block. You should have infinity to the engine block and or ground pin.

E=IxR 120 V 2.5I 48 Ohm / Watts 120V x 2.5I = 300 W

If you want to test the current and you have NO test equipment you can plug and unplug the block heater in to clear type cord end in the dark and look for a tiny spark.

Craig Clayton

 

[TO_Bud]

Greg can you supply the group with a little more info on your problem. How did you determine the block heater was using the wattage you stated? Wattage is a unit of Power determined by volts X amps as CC has stated. If your wattage read is correct it sounds like the resistance of the block heater is somewhere near 40ohms, which is a tad high, but is doesn't sound like the heater has been ruined by low coolant. Is the glow plug circuit working correctly, and is the engine turning over quickly enough (good battery) to facilitate a successful start?

 

[RickB]

Greg can you supply the group with a little more info on your problem. How did you determine the block heater was using the wattage you stated? Wattage is a unit of Power determined by volts X amps as CC has stated. If your wattage read is correct it sounds like the resistance of the block heater is somewhere near 40ohms, which is a tad high, but is doesn't sound like the heater has been ruined by low coolant. Is the glow plug circuit working correctly, and is the engine turning over quickly enough (good battery) to facilitate a successful start?

It is supposed to be a 600 watt element.

 

[greg0145]

First a small correction, the tractor is a 2002 TC40D.

To determine the wattage I have a device called Kill A Watt EZ I purchased on Amazon. You can plug in a device, let it run for a number of hours, enter in your electricity cost per kilowatt, and it will display how much electricity the device used and how much it costs to run that device per hour, per day and per year. The meter indicated that the block heater consumed 8.7KW over a 21 hour period or about 414 watts per hour. I spot checked just now and it indicated 420 watts and 3.4 amps. When I plug in the block heater I can faintly hear it sizzle and this is normal from previous years. I measured the resistance at the three pins of the heater. They are not labeled. The resistance between the outer pins is 34 ohms. The resistance between the outer pins and the center pin or the block is infinity or open.

The glow plug circuit is working normal, the battery is new and indicated just over 12 volts (Red Optima with 800 CCA) The engine is not turning over quickly, that is the problem. It has been so cold, sub zero, that the engine will need to be heated in order for the engine to turn over quickly enough to start. In the past that only required the block heater to be plugged in for a few hours.

Just now I touched the heater itself and it felt warm but not hot after being connected for 10 minutes. I have never touched it before so an not sure if this is normal.

 

[RickB]

First a small correction, the tractor is a 2002 TC40D.

To determine the wattage I have a device called Kill A Watt EZ I purchased on Amazon. You can plug in a device, let it run for a number of hours, enter in your electricity cost per kilowatt, and it will display how much electricity the device used and how much it costs to run that device per hour, per day and per year. The meter indicated that the block heater consumed 8.7KW over a 21 hour period or about 414 watts per hour. I spot checked just now and it indicated 420 watts and 3.4 amps. When I plug in the block heater I can faintly hear it sizzle and this is normal from previous years. I measured the resistance at the three pins of the heater. They are not labeled. The resistance between the outer pins is 34 ohms. The resistance between the outer pins and the center pin or the block is infinity or open.

The glow plug circuit is working normal, the battery is new and indicated just over 12 volts (Red Optima with 800 CCA) The engine is not turning over quickly, that is the problem. It has been so cold, sub zero, that the engine will need to be heated in order for the engine to turn over quickly enough to start. In the past that only required the block heater to be plugged in for a few hours.

Just now I touched the heater itself and it felt warm but not hot after being connected for 10 minutes. I have never touched it before so an not sure if this is normal.

After 10 minutes, you should not be able to keep a fingertip on the heater. They should get REAL hot, to the point of almost raising a blister. Time to R&R the element.

 

[Craig Clayton]

It sounds like the block heater is producing 400 watts. I do not know how big it should ie 300,400, or 600watts. How cold is it and how many HP is the engine Ie the size of the block?
Craig Clayton

 

[greg0145]

I'm not sure about the size of the heater. It worked before, but does not seem to be transferring enough heat now.

The temperature has been 15-20 most of the day today but it was minus 5 during the night. The engine is a 40 HP diesel.
(If I put a 75 or 100 watt trouble light under the hood overnight and cover it with a blanket, the tractor will start if the temperature is in the teens)

If parts are involved, does anyone have a favorite online dealer?

 

[Craig Clayton]

RickB is sure it is 600 watts. And according to the math you are only producing 420 watts. Here are the options
Clean the pins that I believe are the terminals on the block heater because if they have some corrision that is resistance and that will reduce your current ie WATTS.
The cord that pushes on the pins could have a dirty oxided connection ie reduced watts.
As suggested by RickB tear it out R+R.
Put on a lower rad hose heater but I do not know about 600 watts rating.
The 400 watts you PRODUCING SHOULD WARM IT UP it just will be slower to heat.
Wait until it is warmer and R+R.

I am all out of race track, the choice is now yours.
Craig Clayton

 

[TO_Bud]

RickB is the authority on all things NH so I would go with his recommendation. 600W on the heater works out to 24 ohm resistance on the element. Your readings indicate about double that at 40+ohms so the element is suspect. I'm still worried about the starting circuit though, I have a TC40D and it has been single digit temps here the last week or so. I don't have my heater plugged in and I still start up with no problem. I do cycle the glow plugs 3 times before turning it over but it fires right up. There is some rpm hunting for a few seconds but it smooths out quickly. So if you are turning over slow I would check for poor connections both positive and neg at the starter and battery or have the starter tested for high amperage draw. Lastly and more simply what weight oil are you running? If it is 15w-40 then you will need a fully functioning block heater to warm it even if all other items mentioned here are in good order.

 

[shaley]

600 wats sounds high. My 45hp 2120 uses a 400 watt and so does my TC55. Heck my dodge only has a 750 watt. Sounds like it is something else. Have you checked the resistance of the glow plugs? Are they working? Got any cetane boost in the tank?

 

[greg0145]

I have a TC40D and it has been single digit temps here the last week or so. I don't have my heater plugged in and I still start up with no problem. I do cycle the glow plugs 3 times before turning it over but it fires right up.

Mine is only turning over once and then the starter gives up with the clicking sound (kind of like with a weak battery)

Because the battery is only a year old and I spray coated the terminals with the red greasy stuff that protects them from corrosion when I installed the new battery, I never considered problems in the starting system but I will investigate everything from the battery to the starter. I will also replace the block heater because it seems suspect.

Thank you to everyone who contributed!

 

[Jerry/MT]

First a small correction, the tractor is a 2002 TC40D.

To determine the wattage I have a device called Kill A Watt EZ I purchased on Amazon. You can plug in a device, let it run for a number of hours, enter in your electricity cost per kilowatt, and it will display how much electricity the device used and how much it costs to run that device per hour, per day and per year. The meter indicated that the block heater consumed 8.7KW over a 21 hour period or about 414 watts per hour. I spot checked just now and it indicated 420 watts and 3.4 amps. When I plug in the block heater I can faintly hear it sizzle and this is normal from previous years. I measured the resistance at the three pins of the heater. They are not labeled. The resistance between the outer pins is 34 ohms. The resistance between the outer pins and the center pin or the block is infinity or open.

The glow plug circuit is working normal, the battery is new and indicated just over 12 volts (Red Optima with 800 CCA) The engine is not turning over quickly, that is the problem. It has been so cold, sub zero, that the engine will need to be heated in order for the engine to turn over quickly enough to start. In the past that only required the block heater to be plugged in for a few hours.

Just now I touched the heater itself and it felt warm but not hot after being connected for 10 minutes. I have never touched it before so an not sure if this is normal.

How long did you plug the heater in before you tried to start it? 2 hours should be long enough to heat up the water jacket if it's working correctly. You hear it sizzling so it's working somewhat.

If it's supposed to be 600 watts, and your reading 420 W then the element is probably breaking down and needs replacement.
Generally if you get the water jacket warm, the engine will turn over fine because the oil on the piston rings/cylinder walls is warmed up and it's viscosity is reduced.

 

[TO_Bud]

Mine is only turning over once and then the starter gives up with the clicking sound (kind of like with a weak battery)

There is a lot of internet chatter on the Optima batteries being problematic, I've never had one, but it is sounding battery related to me. Here is a link to proper charging procedure for the optima ... Click here. You didn't say what weight oil you are running, it can be a big factor at low temps, you need to get that engine spinning good to get it to ignite the fuel. Put a charger on that battery if you can. If not, pull it and have it tested at your local autoparts store.

Not sure if my link made it so try this Charging an Optima or AGM Battery : Batteries Are Us

 

[moship]

greg0145,

Did you check to make certain your coolant did not end up in the oil pan? That is a lot of fluid to consume and not notice.

 

[CurlyDave]

...The glow plug circuit is working normal, the battery is new and indicated just over 12 volts (Red Optima with 800 CCA) The engine is not turning over quickly, that is the problem. It has been so cold, sub zero, that the engine will need to be heated in order for the engine to turn over quickly enough to start. In the past that only required the block heater to be plugged in for a few hours...

12 volts is too low for a battery. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead紡cid_battery

Click on the graph of voltage vs. charge to enlarge it. You should have over 12.5 volts at full charge.

Low battery voltage can be caused by cold, and in cold enough weather a battery will sometimes not take a charge.

I would try jumping the battery with heavy jumper cables and from a running vehicle before I got too carried away with fixing the block heater which might be OK.

 

[greg0145]

I plugged in the block heater and connected a battery charger for 90 minutes and the tractor started.

The battery, although fairly new, may not have the capacity to get the job done in really cold conditions.

The block heater is putting out some heat but may not be as effective as previous years.

The oil level is normal. There is no sign of coolant in the oil. I don't recall the viscosity of the oil but I am mindful when I change the oil that it will need to be appropriate for cold weather. I do recall it was a fully synthetic oil formulated for diesel engines. The oil on the dipstick doesn't seem overly viscous so I don't think that was the problem.

I do see evidence of coolant leaking from a fitting. I don't know what the fitting is called. The fitting is located on the right side of the block a few inches northeast of the oil filter. The fitting has a small diameter hose connected to it and the hose continues to the bottom of the radiator. Another project for another day.

Thanks for all the insight and suggestions.