I have an 8N and I am currently looking at different hay balers for it. I understand the low hp will greatly limit my choices and I will need to look for fairly old machines. I am thinking along the lines of a New Holland 65 or 273 or a John Deere 14T or 24T. Anyone have any experience with an 8N and one of these balers? Anyone have experience using a baler on an 8N using a Sherman or Hupp in under-drive? I am thinking with one of the under-drive units would allow for maximum engine power at 540 PTO speed making use of a baler more practical. I have seen a few members on here are baling hay with similar sized tractors and would appreciate any input.
Best hay baler for an 8N
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Carykong
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check out this youtube clip 1950 8N baling hay
YouTube - Baling Hay with the 1950 Ford 8N & NH Hayliner 68 Baler
YouTube - Baling Hay with the 1950 Ford 8N & NH Hayliner 68 Baler
flusher
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My neighbor has an 8N and ran an IH57 wire-tie small square baler without an over running clutch on the pto shaft. Bad mistake. He got the baler working OK but when he tried to stop it, he twisted the pto shaft inside the tractor into a corkscrew. That flywheel has lotsa inertia and you need that over running clutch to protect your pto system.
My baler is a Massey Ferguson 124 two-twine small baler that I run with my Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD, gear tranny). The recommended hp for the 124 is 35 pto hp, but you could run it with a smaller tractor like your 8N. The spinning flywheel would jerk an 8N around quite a bit.
Good luck with your baler search.
sweettractors
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If you go that route, Be sure to have plenty of ballast on the tractor and if the baler does not have override on the flywheel, you will probably want one on the tractor. Definitely would not operate on hilly fields. Be Careful !! Ken Sweet
nybirdman
Super Member
When we baled with an 8n,9n we used a baler with its own motor,I wouldn't even try it any other way.NO live pto.......baler is going to stop everytime you push the clutch in,or its going to drive the tractor...either way NOT GOOD.
MikeInEburg
Veteran Member
Years ago we tried to bale with 8N. We had to knock it out of gear every time we wanted the baler to "catch up". We'd then have to clutch, reverse a bit so the baler wouldn't have anything to eat for a couple of feet, the start forward again. That was on fairly flat ground. Can't imagine this combo on a hillside. Go significantly larger or have someone bale for you. 8N is perfect for running an old hay rake.
Mike
Mike
Soundguy
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yep.. i'd get one with a wisconsin engine.
the N's non live pto is more of a detriment than it's hp..
soundguy
the N's non live pto is more of a detriment than it's hp..
soundguy
How close would the New Holland 65 and 273 be in hp requirements? I would definitely be using an ORV and the land around here is extremely flat. Lack of a live PTO wouldn't be much of a problem as long as I don't make the windrows to heavy to avoid plugging. I would be baling only a few acres and dropping the bales to the ground. Any one with experience using a Sherman or Hupp in under-drive to get a bit more hp? (I wonder why Ford geared the PTO for 540 at 1500 engine rpm?)
Soundguy
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plugging is the MAIN concern. once it starts to plug you either stall out plugged, or you have to clutch, shift out of gear and unclutch in a split second to allow it to clear when you have a non live pto AND low hp.. 
mefyj
Member
With no live PTO you would be best to get a baler with it's own power source. All the early balers had seperate power. I do remember a neighbor that had a ford he used on the baler but it was one with selecto-shift. Likely 10 to 20 hp more than your tractor.
sixdogs
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I have baled a lot of hay and owned an 8N and 9N and think this idea is not a good one.
Maybe OK if you had a baler with an engiine on it.
A baler would "drive" the 8N forward and it would plug continuously.
Unplugging can entail a measure of risk and a careless moment hooked to an 8N can leave your hand and wrist in the bale chamber.
It's not as impossible as it sounds.
Just my two cents.
Maybe OK if you had a baler with an engiine on it.
A baler would "drive" the 8N forward and it would plug continuously.
Unplugging can entail a measure of risk and a careless moment hooked to an 8N can leave your hand and wrist in the bale chamber.
It's not as impossible as it sounds.
Just my two cents.
Soundguy
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not with an ORC installed. I believe the owner mentioned using one. still.. I'd get a seldf powered machine.. OR a *6* or *71/*81 ford or better
soundguy
sixdogs
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Thanks.--- I understand.
This is for other newer people that may not be as savvy...Anyone who has owned an 8N or 9N lnows it's 1948-1952 technology and stuff goes wrong that isn't supposed to.
For example, mine was going fine until one day the PTO didn't disengage at an important time. Had I been less careful it would have had an unhappy ending.
Sometimes the clutch would not desengage. And what brakes? The hand throttle could stick.
We both know they are great tractors for what they are. I loved my 8N but finally sold it after a couple scary close calls and traded up. After all, the technology is now 60 years old. We wouldn't use a doctor or dentist with 1950's tech.
They are classic and beautiful tractors and I would buy another --but would be more likely to use it for something fairly docile. Hope I'm not being too offensive with this.
If you have to use it, get a baler with a motor and call it good.
Just my two cents.
Soundguy
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I honestly wouldn't buy anything later than a 53 model ford. IE.. no 9-2-8n unless it was practically free. I've passed on several 700$ units in operating condition just beacause. I like the 8n and 2n I have.. but.. too few options as stock.. I much prefer the better hyds, OHV engine and other improvements the 53+ has.. and really.. the 55-64 if getting particular. IMHO.. just as easy to work on as the 39-52 units.. and 2x the otions available. I havn't found a single task my 8n did well that my 660 didn't do better at. turn radius is near the same as is weight.. hp is higher on the 660 and has a live pto and 28% faster hyds with easy ways to get remotes via a 4-bolt on valve..
add to that.. better rear hubs too.
as far as technology. once you hit the 55's it's not bad. see the same stuff used in the 000 series and x600. not untill you hit the xx10 series do you see a big jump in hyds and a few other things.
if I wanted a diesel mind you.. it would be 65+ though.. and a gasser as stated.. 53-64.. etc.
soundguy
add to that.. better rear hubs too.
as far as technology. once you hit the 55's it's not bad. see the same stuff used in the 000 series and x600. not untill you hit the xx10 series do you see a big jump in hyds and a few other things.
if I wanted a diesel mind you.. it would be 65+ though.. and a gasser as stated.. 53-64.. etc.
soundguy
whodat526
Veteran Member
get a nh compact 66 baler if u can find one cause that is about the only size baler the 8n can run
I ran an 8N with my International 37 without any problem at all. However you need to get one of those PTO thingamagigs that allows the baler to free wheel when you push in your clutch or else it will push you right through through your fence, ditch, barn, etc when you go to stop and the baler keeps running. NEVER leave anything running when working on any hay equipment....just plain stupid. I prefer today doing my hay in my cabbed 4520 but the 8N wasn't without its charms...just don't be in a hurry.
sixdogs
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Even not running they are dangerous.
Any movement of tractor in gear or movement of baler flywheel moves all the parts as well.
Knives, gears, etc. all claim victims.
TravisTractor
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same goes for me,been there done that
tessiers
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I say horse ****, I have baled a lot of hay with a ford NAA and even more with a Farmall H, neither one live PTO. The H is only 24 hp drawbar. I have a new holland 67 baler and it works excellent. You learn to rake a windrow the tractor can handle and you don't need to let the baler catch up. I use the low range first gear on the ford but I often use 3rd on the Farmall. I do not haul a wagon, I just drop them on the ground. It may take a little longer with an old ford but it will get the job done if you learn to work with the tractor.
