Buying Advice CT230 / CT235 questions

[azop]

I'm looking at getting a CT230 or CT235. The most that I would be doing with it is moving a bucket full of gravel up an down my private drive and clearing up debris. In the winter, I'll use a box blade to move some snow around and the front end loader to clean up larger drifts.

I'm trying to figure out if the extra 4-5HP would do anything useful for me, or if it's worth the extra money.

I'm also trying to decide on a mower (mid-mower, or a 3 point mower). I have a pretty small yard, but I'd move it around to my parents and parents in law to mow their yards.

Here are some of my questions:

Can the mid-PTO mower be connected at the same time that I would be using any other rear PTO accessory, or can only one be connected to the PTO shaft?

How long would it take to remove the mid-mower? It's nice to have installed, but I'll want to remove it and rather not spend hours cussing at it.

Would you recommend the box blade for maintaining a gravel road, or would the Bobcat angle blade (with forks) work just as well?

Do I need rear remotes for any of the things I've mentioned, or are they mainly for larger attachments (backhoes and such)?

 

[94BULLITT]

I'm looking at getting a CT230 or CT235. The most that I would be doing with it is moving a bucket full of gravel up an down my private drive and clearing up debris. In the winter, I'll use a box blade to move some snow around and the front end loader to clean up larger drifts.

I'm trying to figure out if the extra 4-5HP would do anything useful for me, or if it's worth the extra money.

I'm also trying to decide on a mower (mid-mower, or a 3 point mower). I have a pretty small yard, but I'd move it around to my parents and parents in law to mow their yards.

Here are some of my questions:

Can the mid-PTO mower be connected at the same time that I would be using any other rear PTO accessory, or can only one be connected to the PTO shaft?

How long would it take to remove the mid-mower? It's nice to have installed, but I'll want to remove it and rather not spend hours cussing at it.

Would you recommend the box blade for maintaining a gravel road, or would the Bobcat angle blade (with forks) work just as well?

Do I need rear remotes for any of the things I've mentioned, or are they mainly for larger attachments (backhoes and such)?

I have a CT235 the price difference is not that much between the 235 and 230, thats why I went with the 235. Yes you can have something on the mid pto and rear pto (you can run them both at the same time). I have a front mount snowblower for my CT235 and it is fairly easy to take off so I would think a mid mount mower would be easy to take off. If you do not plan on keeping the tractor very long you may want to go with a rear mount mower because it you can use it on another tractor. A mid mount mower is specific to that tractor but easier to use in tight places. A box blade or regular blade will work fine for maintaining a driveway. You do not need rear remotes unless you go with a hydralic angle blade. Like you said rear remotes are for a back hoe, wood splitter or anything that would require hydraulics. One good thing about the Bobcat compact tractor is the loader is very easy to remove. You can take it off in less than 5 minutes which would be nice when you mow. You may want to get the loader with the bob tach if you plan on getting any other attachments for it like pallet forks.

 

[galaxie428]

I have the CT230 and I am plenty happy with it but that being said, if I had the extra money, I probably would have bought the 235. My 230 has not been able to do anything I have asked of it within reason and is the best investment that I have ever made.

I can not speak of the MMM other than when I priced one, it was way more than I wanted to spend. I ended up buying a used 3pt finish mower very cheap.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I am sure that I read on here or somewhere that the 3pt raises and lowers the MMM. If that is the case, I don't see how you would be able to use the 3pt with the MMM.

 

[qed-cat225]

HI, I had the CT225 with the 66" mid mower, it did not have enough power so I upgraded to the CT235 and have no complaints anymore. It takes about 10-15 minutes to attach and reattach the mid mower once you get the hang of it. Yes the 3 pt raises and lowers the mid mower and it can be "pinned" in the full up position and still be able to operate the rear mounted attachments fully but be aware when you do it in this fashion you only have about 4" of ground clearance. My advice having been through the buying to small syndrome is getting the largest tractor you can afford. Go with the 235, if ever your projects expand you will not be disappointed. Weight wise with the mid mower the ground can be pretty soft and no ruts occur especially in the spring time. Mine has the R4 GP tires. a set of rear remotes would come in useful if you wanted to run a snow blade with angling or a box blade with the auto toplink adjustment

 

[Gittyup]

I also say go with the most hp you can afford. But the boxblade won't be great for snow removal. A scraper blade can be angle to push snow to the side. A boxblade can just be used to bulldoze. Put a piece of pipe on the scraper blade edge to keep it from digging into stone. And inexpensive used scraper blades are a dime a dozen; less so for boxblades.

The mmm delemma has kept me befuddled for some time. John Deere has the best system: on/off in just a couple of minutes. I've read where people complain about the difficulties of mmm mounting on just about every other brand. If a rear mower is workable on your property, that might be the way to go.

 

[beltfed]

As others said, get the CT235 if you have any doubts. They are the same size in weight and even the same engine.

I recommend a rear scraper blade as I use that for a 1000' gravel driveway. Both for gravel maintenance and snow removal. Try to get a good blade which is moderately heavy so it won't bounce up off hard pack gravel. Mine is around 400-450 lbs and works well. It is also offsetable which is a benefit. I'm using the Leinbach S06 from everything attachments.

Try to have the dealer throw in rear remotes. If they install them, it will stress you out less. They are a huge benefit for removing snow and gravel maintenance. I only have the side link hooked up but after using it, I wouldn't be without it. I hated climbing down, adjusting the side link all the time. Now I can easily angle the blade at ease.

I got R4's even though I stay off the grass and so far they have been great. If I were to get on the grass with R4's I'd probably do quite a bit of grass damage. Though I have a FEL, Filled tires, 450lb backblade. I'm probably over 5k in weight so if you mow, you'd probably want to remove your FEL and any extra items.

Good luck. Its a great tractor!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Depending on how much road you are going to maintain, I would highly recommend top and tilt hydraulics for your 3pt hitch. That being said, you would need to get both of the rear remotes that are available. It is way easier and typically you will do a better job of grading your drive when the adjustments are at your finger tips vs having to get off of the tractor to make the adjustments manually. A lot of people use a box blade, but as has been mentioned a rear blade is normally better for snow removal and they work very good for working on your road also. If you have a long drive then a land-plane grader blade along with a rear or box blade works best in my opinion.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[azop]

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I'll definitely look at the CT235, your suggestions have been very useful.

@beltfed,

I'm still toying with a Bobcat box blade. I'm going to get the rear blade for snow removal, I'm just not sure if it will handle the (hard packed) gravel on our road. Nobody has touched it in year, besides to throw more gravel on it.

Does anyone know if the the Bobcat box blade will hookup to the rear remotes, or if all of the tilt adjustment is done manually? I'd rather get Bobcat equipment for the initial purchase so I can get better discounts and finance it all.

Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I'll definitely look at the CT235, your suggestions have been very useful.

@beltfed,

I'm still toying with a Bobcat box blade. I'm going to get the rear blade for snow removal, I'm just not sure if it will handle the (hard packed) gravel on our road. Nobody has touched it in year, besides to throw more gravel on it.

Does anyone know if the the Bobcat box blade will hookup to the rear remotes, or if all of the tilt adjustment is done manually? I'd rather get Bobcat equipment for the initial purchase so I can get better discounts and finance it all.

Thanks

All of your front to back and side to side tilt adjustments for a box blade are manual. Those adjustments are with the 3pt hitch, not on the box blade. That would be the reason for getting the top and tilt hydraulics. Bobcat has a heavy duty box blade available, but in my opinion is just a tad bit to big for the CT235.

 

[galaxie428]

I only got one set of rear remotes when I bought mine, I definetly recommend getting two, I wish I had. Then at some point, you can get a hydraulic top and side link to control the tilt and angle of your box blade. That will require two remotes to run. It will save a lot of getting on and off the tractor though to make adjustments.

 

[azop]

Next stupid question.

What would I need besides dual remotes so that I can change the adjustment of the box blade or scrapper blade without getting down from the tractor?

 

[Dmace]

Next stupid question.

What would I need besides dual remotes so that I can change the adjustment of the box blade or scrapper blade without getting down from the tractor?

Just one of these little guys in place of the top link.
Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders

 

[Fred Barbour]

Regarding a box blade for snow removal. I have both a snow blade and box blade but actually prefer the box blade for snow removal. I hate the windrows and the gravel fired up on the lawn over a winters plowing. The box blade pulls everything out to the street and I use my loader to push the snow into the ditch.

The box blade if properly adjusted will NOT pull your gravel out of your driveway. I extend the top link to the max. This lifts the front cutter off the ground by at least two inches. The box blade then drags on the back blade. In the first part of the winter I leave the front blade raised to the max, after a half dozen plows the driveway is now frozen and the snow has been built up because the back cutter has been dragging and packing. I then gradually lower the front cutter to remove the excess and voila, your driveway is perfectly plowed.

I find the box blade indispensible, winter and summer.

Fred (Bobcat CT235, Bobcat 5 ft box blade)

 

[94BULLITT]

You may want to get general purpose tires. They give you a wider stance which is more stable for a loader. They are also easier on the turf and they provide more traction than turf tires. Most compact tractors already have general purpose tires on them. You will also want fluid in the tires which is usually standard for a tractor with a loader.

 

[azop]

After talking to the dealer there is only one tractor left that has the FEL program, a 2010 CT230. I wanted a CT235, but the free FEL was a big selling point. The CT235 would only come with a $2150 rebate.

It already has GP tires, so I guess I'm going to go with that model.

 

[birddriver]

I agree that the free loader is a key item. I went with the 230 and I took delivery in Dec. of 2010. I paid $15, 300 for it. I have really only been using it for snow plowing and right now without a blade or box Iam using the 62 inch bucket that it came with. While not ideal it is getting the job done. The only problem with using the bucket has bene with heavy snow or ice. I need a ballast box or an attachment to keep those rear tires planted. I am going to use the $1500 or so dollars that I would have spent on the 235 to get me a box and blade for the upcoming year. At 3800 pounds with the loader I have been rutting up my grass whenever we get a melt. If I do mow with it I will be getting a used 3PT finish mower. At 2 or 3000 for a new one they can keep it. I do like my machine and good luck with yours.

 

[azop]

II have really only been using it for snow plowing and right now without a blade or box Iam using the 62 inch bucket that it came with. While not ideal it is getting the job done. The only problem with using the bucket has bene with heavy snow or ice. I need a ballast box or an attachment to keep those rear tires planted.

Thanks!

How many inches of snow have you used the tractor with? I imagine I'll just have to try it out and see, but I'm hoping that a decent six inch snow won't be a problem if I have a rear box blade on it.

 

[Canada_CT230]

I have a CT230 and use it for cultivating my 7 acre field, tilling and snow removal (blower and bucket). I've never had any problems with its power or capability. Get it and enjoy.

 

[birddriver]

I live in N.E. Ohio and have moved as muck as 14 inches of snow at a time. When it is powder it is not a problem. We had an ice storm and had 2 inches of snow and 2 inches of ice. The tractor and the bucket did fine with it. The problem was traction. I need to add a ballast box or an attachment to lift the heavier loads because my tires are not filled. I have not really needed chains on the machine but my land is flat. With hills you might need them.

 

[70stang]

I did not have much time but I stopped at the Bobcat CT235 and CT335 for the first time. I like the smaller size of the CT235 but I have never driven a tracotr with teh toe/heel control and brakes on the same side.
I like the CT335 controls which are just like Jdeere.

Any Comments on these?

Price for CT235 $16,900 with FEL
Price for CT335 $19,800 with FEL

I also looking for a backhoe. Delaer had a used BH to fit the CT335.

CT335 with Used 8TB BH, tax & Delvery = $26,818
CT235 with New 7TB BH, tax & Delvery = $26,335


Just unsure of the size of the CT335 -- sitting side by side that CT335 looks BIG.

I have been to JD & Kobuta dealers who are nervous just letting me run the tracotr around the parking lot. The Bobcat dealer told me to stop in when I had more time and I could take them both up to the dirt pile out back and play.
Has anyone heard of this?

How do you guys like the hel/toe and brake on same side.

Does the CT235 have seperate brakes, how do you use it with only one foot?