Foton 254 starting problem

Rich Waugh · Feb 27, 2011

That's good news, Cory! You got off easy, it sounds like. Now you know to keep the little weep hole in the bellhousing bottom clear and you've learned about starters. While it was certainly an annoyance, it didn't require new parts and you learned some things - not bad at all!

succor · Mar 2, 2011

Looks like it's going to have to stay in the garage till it completely dry's out. Had it out the other day, left it there and guess what, FREEZE! The tractor must sweat inside when it warms up and we are still in this cold snap.

Cory

Diamondpilot · Mar 2, 2011

succor said:
Looks like it's going to have to stay in the garage till it completely dry's out. Had it out the other day, left it there and guess what, FREEZE! The tractor must sweat inside when it warms up and we are still in this cold snap.

Cory

You have something else going on. Are you sure there is nothing plugging the drain hole in the bell housing? Take off a loader mount or a inspection plate if you do not have a loader and take a look inside the bell housing. I usually take off my left one, seems easier.

Something is not right here.

Chris

Gene :^) · Mar 2, 2011

Are you still losing coolant?

Gene :^)

succor · Mar 6, 2011

So far I'm just keeping the tractor inside after I move snow. I wiggled around the peep hole on the bell housing and got a few drops of water, that's about it. I haven't removed the loader yet as it it too cold outside and not enough room inside the shop. For now this works. As for the coolant, the only time I could get it to leak was when I plugged in the rad hose heater to warm up the block. It never happened before till now. In the shop, I can't get it to leak when I plug it in; just outside when it's cold. Still looking into the issue.

succor · May 1, 2011

Hey everyone, now that the weather is finally warming up here, just thought I'd give an update about the starting problem with my foton 254. It's a combo problem!! As Greg and others pointed out, the voltage drop is down to 7 volts intermittently to the solenoid so wiring is one problem and also there wasn the ice problem down in the bell housing! the screwdriver trick to the starter starts the tractor 100% of the time but not the key due to wiring!

Thumbs up to this forum!!

Cory

succor · Aug 5, 2011

Hey everyone, another update. I decided to remove the wiring harness in behind the fuel tank and check wiring. Diesel fuel that was spilled when filling corrodes the wiring connections so I redid everyone that was bad. I do not like foton's grounding; 4 - 16 gauge wires tapped to 1 - 16 gauge wire tapped back to 3 is silly! This is sloppy wiring so I fixed this. I also took out the starting relay and clutch safety switch as this was part of the problem for my low voltage to the starter! When you simplify wiring it's amazing how the unit will start every single time!! I'm NOT having winter troubles again!

Gotta like a Foton

Cory

Bob Rooks · Aug 5, 2011

succor said:
I also took out the starting relay and clutch safety switch as this was part of the problem for my low voltage to the starter! When you simplify wiring it's amazing how the unit will start every single time!!

They are there for a reason. Now you have high current going through your key switch. Curious why you removed them instead of replacing them (if they were in fact the problem).

Diamondpilot · Aug 5, 2011

Taking out the clutch safety switch is a personal decision but taking out the starter relay will burn up some wiring and switches real quick causing more issues in the long run.

Chris

succor · Aug 5, 2011

Let me be more specific; the starting relay should actually be called the solenoid relay which requires alot less current to energize than an actual starting relay to the starter. This relay was connected to the clutch safety switch which was connected to the key switch which energized the relay to actuate the solenoid. I'm not a big fan of relays as I've had 3 in 2 years fail due to starting issues. The dealer had installed an aftermarket starting relay to this unit only to have it fail quite quickly so out it comes, no problems. Even the manufacturer agreed on this one. The more high current contacts you have, the more carbon buildup thus resistance you have which leads to more failures. The key tumbler on these units are actually quite beefy compared to some models of the past. Wire sizes are decent for the most part but bad grounds are apparent in this unit as well.