Killing Stump Roots

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I just recently cut a hedge apple (some people call them bodock or mock orange) tree in a fence row. I know from past experience that they have a strong tendency to sucker. I have previously cut limbs on this tree and the offshoots around the cut area are quick to return and quick to grow. I want the roots killed on this thing. Will putting roundup full strength on the stump kill it? If not, what should I use?

 

[jbooth]

I cut lots of hedge apple/bodok/osage orange. I like Tordon for the stumps. Need a license for the "potent" full strength Tordon in KS., but the "ready to use" is fine for small amounts. I have also had pretty good luck with pasturegard. Generally only use the pasturgard because I already have it on board for other spraying I expect the round up will do it but don't have the experience with it on tree stumps.

The hedge is very good firewood but pops a lot and can damage some wood stoves due to high heat content.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have recently used Roundup with pretty good results. I used it on a freshly cut chainsaw surface applied full strength with a paintbrush less than an hour after cutting.

I thought about drilling some 1/2" holes in the top surface, but didn't go to that much effort.

 

[Western]

I have used diesel and salt after drilling a few 2" holes . =dead.

 

[jcliburn]

I second Curly Dave's method. It works very well for me on sweetgum, oak, hickory, and privet.

Jay

 

[Ford850]

Whatever chemical you decide to you, you only need to coat the outer rim of the stump near the bark (on the cut surface). The thin Cambium layer just inside the bark layer contains the only cells that transfer nutients or moisture up and down from tree to roots. You waste chemicals by applying to the sapwood, pith, or heartwood. No need to drill into those woody areas either. This holds true for killing a stump.
When you hear of people drilling the woody areas, it is to apply other treatments to decompose the stump.

 

[clemsonfor]

Round up sprayed imediatly after cutting will kill it as it will uptake the glyphosate (active ingredient in roundup, or the generic name if u will). This is as the mixed rate of 3oz to the gallon, there is no need to brush full consentrate onto it, all your doing is wasting chemical. There is a dosage rate for a reason. Thats one of the things they stress when you get your license, follow the labeled recomendations, not doing so is technically illegal as your not following its aproved use. Cause it says 3oz/gallon for brush dont meant that 9 will kill 3 x faster!

 

[merrickvilleguy]

I've always cut a cross across the top of the stump and salted it ... seems to die and rot quickly that way?

 

[jbooth]

I've always cut a cross across the top of the stump and salted it ... seems to die and rot quickly that way?

There is no way I will be around to say I told you so or to have anyone tell me I was wrong, but I will personally guarantee the osage orange stump will still be there 50 years from now if it had any size to it. I set some osage orange posts in 1960, the year I graduated from high school, and just this year I noticed most of the bark has fell off the posts. No visible rot to the wood. About the only thing that will destroy them is fire.

Back on subject, my forestry rep has always recommended gettin the chemical on the stump, to prevent suckering, within minutes of cutting the tree down. Even if it does resprout folar spray will kill the sprouts. I spray hundreds of stumps a year and weather elements seem to have a big effect on how well the herbicides work. If it's dry I kill most, not as good during wet times.

 

[clemsonfor]

There is no way I will be around to say I told you so or to have anyone tell me I was wrong, but I will personally guarantee the osage orange stump will still be there 50 years from now if it had any size to it. I set some osage orange posts in 1960, the year I graduated from high school, and just this year I noticed most of the bark has fell off the posts. No visible rot to the wood. About the only thing that will destroy them is fire.

Back on subject, my forestry rep has always recommended gettin the chemical on the stump, to prevent suckering, within minutes of cutting the tree down. Even if it does resprout folar spray will kill the sprouts. I spray hundreds of stumps a year and weather elements seem to have a big effect on how well the herbicides work. If it's dry I kill most, not as good during wet times.

Yep rotting the stump and killing are two different things. A rot resistant species although dead may persist for years. Thats where once dead and dry you drill some 1" holes and soak with diesel and then burn it.

If it is to dry it sometimes will not kill as the herbicide is not taken up by the plants as they are not very actively growing!