From the front of the tractor, how far (inches) should the bucket be if the bucket was sitting flat on the ground? Measuring from the back of the bucket to the front of the tractor frame.
Thanks
Loader Wheel Horse Loader, install on Yanmar
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From the front of the tractor, how far (inches) should the bucket be if the bucket was sitting flat on the ground? Measuring from the back of the bucket to the front of the tractor frame.
Thanks
Gary Sweat
Platinum Member
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I started to write out a long suggestion but then deleted it and will go with this.
Something to decide, do you want the loader to do more lifting or digging and pushing?
If you want it to lift and haul, then have the loader arms (horizontal arms) go about even with the front end of the tractor and a couple of inches below the top of the hood and set the bucket out far enough so the cross brace tube clears the front of the grill by a few inches. That will determine where to cut the bucket arms.
If you want to do more pushing and digging then drop the angle of the loader arms down to as much of a straight line as you can get by with and still let the cylinders work. Either way, the loader arms should not extend past the front of the tractor grill if possible. If you have looked at the heavy equipment loaders, they all tend to keep the arms as straight in line with the bucket arms as possible.
One method will give more lift height and the other gives more strength.
I do more digging and pushing grading down high spots and digging up dirt so I made mine with a lower arm angle. It has worked great so far as I have not broken any welds, bent arms and have not seen any stress showing up on the tractor yet. The trade off was the lift height. It is only about 5.5 feet. I also kept the bucket arms as short as possible to allow the cross brace to clear the front of the tractor.
Don't scrimp on the brace arms going to the front of the tractor. They are the key to transferring the strain to the tractor frame and protecting the upright arms.
Gary Sweat
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Thanks, but there was a BIG learning curve for me. I envy the fact you can build and sell the loaders for the price you ask. Mine cost me more to build than you sell them for. It's a lot of work and I have no desire to build another one but it has been a real big help to me and I wish I had done it a few years ago. Some like to go with the biggest loader they can find but I wanted a loader that would match the tractors strength. So far they look to be well matched. Hopefully the loader will give or break before I do damage to the tractor.
I like the looks of your loader as it better matches the capability of the compact tractors for strength and added weight. Every where I read, they all just about said the same thing, "you will not like the hard steering with the loader on a two wheel tractor". So far I steer just fine with the speed knob and one hand with a loaded bucket. My loader and bucket are smaller compared to the professional ones but it matches the tractor much better.
Will do.... I'll try and make the best mount I can with my limited welding skills.
I have some good steel to work with and a Buzz Box to melt some rods with
More pics for your inspection, I really do appreciate all of the comments..
I pulled the loader back as far as I could and still clear the front of the tractor with the cross member.
And just for Grins, an old pic when I had to rebuild the steering...
Gary Sweat
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Looking good! Angle of the arms and bucket placement look right from the pics. The sub-frame doesn't have to be overly beefy but it needs to be strong enough to take side to side twisting. I've seen some fairly small frames work though. Be sure to tie it to the part of the frame the engine is mounted to also. Keeps a lot of pressure off the bell housing if that is where you wind up attaching the frame to. Here are some pic's of the arm brace on mine. It is 2" square tubing and 12 gauge if I remember correctly.
From the looks of it so far, I think you are going to have a good loader setup.
From the looks of it so far, I think you are going to have a good loader setup.
Attachments
Just messing around with 3dMax since it is raining and I haven't got the ends of my shop closed in yet... so wind keeps blowing rain in on meeee.
Here is my first concept of a sub frame since I have to thread the front drive shaft through the sub frame.
Coldwater
Advertiser
you are do good. f15 is a wide tractor i did not think you could get that loader that far back. the loader looked to narrow.but it looks good.i love my old buzz box.i got one that is a 1958 same as me.i was 13 when my dad put me on a buzz box welding 7024 ac flat 8 hr a day i loved it.
Coldwater
Advertiser
you know i love my 2 wheels with loaders 1500 1700 2000 and 1600 and 1900.they steer good. yanmar are the best steering tractor in 2 wheel. the cost of a loader is a lot less when you buy parts a 100 at a time.i see a lot of nice tractors fx26d 24d ym2620d but i am old school so give me a 2x4 ym2000 and i am good to go.we know what runs like a yanmar
Gary Sweat
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2010
- Messages
- 519
Just messing around with 3dMax since it is raining and I haven't got the ends of my shop closed in yet... so wind keeps blowing rain in on meeee.
Here is my first concept of a sub frame since I have to thread the front drive shaft through the sub frame.
Nice design and should work fine. I would make the front supports to the frame as strong as space will allow to keep stress off the engine to bell housing point. Post pictures as you go along. Looks like you are putting a lot of thought into it.
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
after seeing a better photo of the side profile, it looks to be more suitable to the tractor than originally thought:thumbsup:
one other thing you might think of, but only if you find you need to cut down the towers, the part I'm talking about is what connects to the sub-frame, think about going ahead and converting to a saddle type or pin type mount system, One that can allow a simple remove of the FEL if ever need be.
just a suggestion
here is a link of a video to what I'm suggesting do,:thumbsup:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...=G&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1&ei=mUOTTcvVIbOJ0QHg37nNBw
one other thing you might think of, but only if you find you need to cut down the towers, the part I'm talking about is what connects to the sub-frame, think about going ahead and converting to a saddle type or pin type mount system, One that can allow a simple remove of the FEL if ever need be.
just a suggestion
here is a link of a video to what I'm suggesting do,:thumbsup:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...=G&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1&ei=mUOTTcvVIbOJ0QHg37nNBw