Water In Oil

[Soundguy]

imho.. if you are opening it up to apply the jb weld.. go ahead and have the part brazed instead. the metal will at least expand and contract more similarly to the original metal.. vs the jbweld..

i try to hit the popular boards..

soundguy

 

[NCMau]

Since you live in NC, do you use much antifreeze in your coolant? Antifreeze/water coolant can leak through small cracks and hose joints easier due to the lower surface tension of the liquid. Plain water has much higher surface tension thus does not easily leak through cracks. For an interim solution, you can reduce your antifreeze content to around +10F freeze point. If the tractor does not run that much, your greatest concern is the build up of coolant in the oil. Periodically, you could loosen the oil pan drain plug (but not remove) and allow accumulated water to leak past the threads. I have found this works on my John Deere B in the transmission where water seeped in. Just loosening the drain plug was sufficient to allow the water to drain with almost no lubricant lost. Finding a coolant hose that will not be easily damaged by kerosene will not be easy. Plus, the engine was developed using a glycol/water coolant. Oil cooled engines have much different coolant passages and radiator tube sizes to accomodate the heat transfer requirements.

After using almost all the available block sealers, the coolant leak in oil still exist. Draining the coolant from the oil, as you suggested, in my case would be a weekly chore whether I use the tractor or not. I understand the risk involved in using oil for coolant, but for the sake of a discussion, if I would so choose, what would be the most suitable oil I can use?
I did a quick search and a 5W Fork oil is available. Is there something better? About Hydraulic fluid or ATF?

 

[fieldserviceengineer]

After using almost all the available block sealers, the coolant leak in oil still exist. Draining the coolant from the oil, as you suggested, in my case would be a weekly chore whether I use the tractor or not. I understand the risk involved in using oil for coolant, but for the sake of a discussion, if I would so choose, what would be the most suitable oil I can use?
I did a quick search and a 5W Fork oil is available. Is there something better? About Hydraulic fluid or ATF?

IF you used a light oil, it still will dilute the crankcase oil thus reducing viscosity and may well result in further damage to the crankshaft. Use of an ATF or other very light oil would be like having diesel fuel going into the lube oil. Eventually you suffer the consequences. Use of a coolant that is not water based, will create problems with the hoses. They are not suitable for any hydrocarbon based coolant. Butyl and EPDM hose will come apart releasing pieces (shreds) into the sytem and plug radiator tubes. More repairs. Use a silicon rubber lined coolant hose will stand up to oil in coolant. Do not know if it will work with straight oil. Your water pump seal assembly is enclosed in a rubber bellows. It may well come apart resulting in a really big external leak.

Back to water as a coolant, keep the pressure cap loose so there is no system pressure build up while in use. This will slow the leak. Have you put in water only yet? Has the leak slowed any?

 

[NCMau]

Yes, I did remove the antifreeze and use just plain water, but the leak still there. I guess for now I'll remove the water component periodically until a permanent fix. Thanks for the input.

 

[J_J]

If you run non detergent oil, any water that does get in will settle to the bottom. If you use detergent oil and the pump picks it up and circulates it through the engine, the oil and water will emulsify and become milky and lose lubricating functions, plus make new compounds that are harmful to the engine.

 

[tcartwri]

If you suspect the crack is in the bottom of the water jacket, you can partially fill the block with concrete grout. They sell a specific product to the race car crowd for doing this. It would never leak again.

 

[NCMau]

Unfortunately, The crack is between cylinder walls. That means taking the sleeves out and I assume you can braze it, like soundguy suggested, or apply some appropriate filler.

If you run non detergent oil, any water that does get in will settle to the bottom. If you use detergent oil and the pump picks it up and circulates it through the engine, the oil and water will emulsify and become milky and lose lubricating functions, plus make new compounds that are harmful to the engine.

Thanks JJ. That's a good input.

 

[jonyyuma]

Personally I believe the brazing is best, it worked longer on the head than JB weld. Liquid glass, kw blockseal will work in some cases, seems to have hair properties...Jy.

 

[deerefan]

Personally I believe the brazing is best, it worked longer on the head than JB weld. Liquid glass, kw blockseal will work in some cases, seems to have hair properties...Jy.

On a 8N my father pulled down, there was a crack between the cylinders. He applied JB weld and it is still going strong 6 years later. Cheap fix, but imho have it done professionally (brazed or better) and you won't have the worry of the JB weld letting go.

 

[Soundguy]

a crack between cyls on a sleaved engine also give you a few more options for repair.. but in the end.. i'd choose brazing over jb weld any day..

soundguy