JD 4310, Front Axle Leak?

[JB4310]

Found a good size oily wet spot running down my right front wheel, enough to make a 5" dia stain on the floor.

I've heard of axle seal leaks here, but not sure what I'm up against.

Anyone able to direct me me where to start?

Thanks, JB.

 

[Zebrafive]

Search JD 4300, I think there are several posts that apply

 

[om21braz]

This what you're looking for? This is from the JD parts site - 4310 front diff. - Sorry but evidently you cannot copy/paste a link to a particular page on their website anymore. Maybe this is of some help.

 

[JB4310]

Search JD 4300, I think there are several posts that apply

I'll try it, but have never had luck searching on this site, partly because I rarely ever try.

This what you're looking for? This is from the JD parts site - 4310 front diff. - Sorry but evidently you cannot copy/paste a link to a particular page on their website anymore. Maybe this is of some help.

Thanks, that's the right schematic, but no part descriptions?
Also never had any luck on the JD parts site, looks like I need to learn.

I was hoping to here from someone who has had the same problem before.

JB.

 

[beenthere]

JB
Go to jdparts and register (it is free) and you can go to the model 4310 to see all the schematics with part numbers (for any JD tractor or item made, it appears).

Go to kennyd for a primer if you don't figure out how to do it, or ask here. Glad to help you get on board for a world of info on Deere.

 

[reasley]

Found a good size oily wet spot running down my right front wheel, enough to make a 5" dia stain on the floor.

I've heard of axle seal leaks here, but not sure what I'm up against.

Anyone able to direct me me where to start?

Thanks, JB.

Same problem, here, KB. Picked up the parts yesterday from the local John Deere dealer -- two seals (both left and right sides), were Spicer brand, large seals (~$28 each), and you also need their "flange sealant" which is Permatex 515 ($15). Should be a fairly easy job *if* the bearings are not the tapered ones (I don't think that mine are). If I do it over the weekend, I'll let you know how it goes . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

 

[Verticaltrx]

Found a good size oily wet spot running down my right front wheel, enough to make a 5" dia stain on the floor.

I've heard of axle seal leaks here, but not sure what I'm up against.

Anyone able to direct me me where to start?

Thanks, JB.

When we had a 4400 I replaced the front axle seals a couple times. It was only about a 30-40min job IIRC, wasn't too bad. If you are mechanically inclined it's pretty self explanatory how to replace them, just tear it apart and you'll see how it works.

 

[JB4310]

JB
Go to jdparts and register (it is free) and you can go to the model 4310 to see all the schematics with part numbers (for any JD tractor or item made, it appears).

Go to kennyd for a primer if you don't figure out how to do it, or ask here. Glad to help you get on board for a world of info on Deere.

I know I registered once before and got lost in there somewhere in the thousands of models they have I've seen kenny's link to the tutorial, I'll have to check it out.

Same problem, here, KB. Picked up the parts yesterday from the local John Deere dealer -- two seals (both left and right sides), were Spicer brand, large seals (~$28 each), and you also need their "flange sealant" which is Permatex 515 ($15). Should be a fairly easy job *if* the bearings are not the tapered ones (I don't think that mine are). If I do it over the weekend, I'll let you know how it goes . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

Do you know what part the seal is in this blow up? 22 maybe? because mine dripped on the outside of the wheel I think it must be coming from the end somewhere? Let me know what you find, what model do you have?

thanks

When we had a 4400 I replaced the front axle seals a couple times. It was only about a 30-40min job IIRC, wasn't too bad. If you are mechanically inclined it's pretty self explanatory how to replace them, just tear it apart and you'll see how it works.

Thanks, I am at least mechanically inclined, so yeah I should be able to do the job, I would like to have the right parts when I start. The dealer is only 8-10 miles away, but not sure if they stock the parts.

JB.

 

[beenthere]

I know I registered once before and got lost in there somewhere in the thousands of models they have I've seen kenny's link to the tutorial, I'll have to check it out.

Just have to enter the model number (i.e. 4310) and select the CUT from the list to get access to your tractor. The 4310 beet harvestor also shows up


Do you know what part the seal is in this blow up? 22 maybe? because mine dripped on the outside of the wheel I think it must be coming from the end somewhere? Let me know what you find, ......?

The seal is 22 and the part number is LVA16814. AXLE OUTPUT W/INSTRUCTIONS, (SUB FOR LVU10836)

Hope this helps, my reply in bold letters.

 

[om21braz]

JB,
Part # 22 is listed as a "seal" on that drawing - it has a JD number of LVA16814. The only other part shown there is #33 - which is'nt where I would think your leak is. I attached a link below directly to the JD parts page - just enter 4310 in the model block (left upper portion of page) then scroll down and pick the 4310 tractor.



John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[JB4310]

Hope this helps, my reply in bold letters.

JB,
Part # 22 is listed as a "seal" on that drawing - it has a JD number of LVA16814. The only other part shown there is #33 - which is'nt where I would think your leak is. I attached a link below directly to the JD parts page - just enter 4310 in the model block (left upper portion of page) then scroll down and pick the 4310 tractor.



John Deere - Parts Catalog

Thanks guys, Have not looked into it any further, yesterday there was not much leaking? Have not checked today. Machine has around 600 hours.

I don't get to excited about a little wet around a seal/gasket, but this got my attention when it left a spot on the floor. I'm sure I'll have to address the mater sooner than later.

JB.

 

[beenthere]

Least you can do is check the dip stick to keep oil in the axle housing.

Has it dropped? Or is it empty, and that is why it has stopped leaking so much?

 

[reasley]

Just finished one side on this job, taking a lunch break. The job is not too bad, but If one is not a moderate/advanced DIYer, I would not recommend it. I ended up *not* having the tapered bearings (which is a more difficult job). A hydraulic press is required to do the job properly -- would not touch it without it.. Harbor Freight had their middle one on sale today and, with the 20% coupon, came out to be a little bit more than $100. The thing that makes the job more difficult is that the instruction sheet that comes with the seal specifies a .060" rise above the housing. I have depth gauges, so I was able to measure it precisely. I assumed that JD must be having problems with these seals because 1) they have been updated and 2) they have a precise depth for the seal. Now, of course, the reason for the precise depth is that the new seal also has a "flange" that "rides" on the hub facing the tire (in addition to the "typical" sealing surface) -- hence the precise depth measurement. During assembly, when I put the outer bearing in and seated it, the hub had a little more resistance than I was comfortable with when turning to check it, but I assumed that this was because of the additional mating surface for sealing. However, by the time that I had installed the inner bearing, the turning tension was less.

For those that are uncomfortable doing this job, the removal of the hub from the axle is *easy* and, if done by an owner that is not putting the seal in, this would enable you to take the hubs to any repair/machine shop and have the seals installed without taking the tractor.

More later if I have any additional observations . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

 

[JB4310]

Least you can do is check the dip stick to keep oil in the axle housing.

Has it dropped? Or is it empty, and that is why it has stopped leaking so much?

I thought about that myself, But really we are talking about maybe a couple of ounces so far. Every time I've ever checked it, it's been right on, but since it's been a few months I will look today.

Just finished one side on this job, taking a lunch break. The job is not too bad, but If one is not a moderate/advanced DIYer, I would not recommend it. I ended up *not* having the tapered bearings (which is a more difficult job). A hydraulic press is required to do the job properly -- would not touch it without it.. Harbor Freight had their middle one on sale today and, with the 20% coupon, came out to be a little bit more than $100. The thing that makes the job more difficult is that the instruction sheet that comes with the seal specifies a .060" rise above the housing. I have depth gauges, so I was able to measure it precisely. I assumed that JD must be having problems with these seals because 1) they have been updated and 2) they have a precise depth for the seal. Now, of course, the reason for the precise depth is that the new seal also has a "flange" that "rides" on the hub facing the tire (in addition to the "typical" sealing surface) -- hence the precise depth measurement. During assembly, when I put the outer bearing in and seated it, the hub had a little more resistance than I was comfortable with when turning to check it, but I assumed that this was because of the additional mating surface for sealing. However, by the time that I had installed the inner bearing, the turning tension was less.

For those that are uncomfortable doing this job, the removal of the hub from the axle is *easy* and, if done by an owner that is not putting the seal in, this would enable you to take the hubs to any repair/machine shop and have the seals installed without taking the tractor.

More later if I have any additional observations . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

Richard, do you have the exact same model as me, 4310?

I thought I could handle a seal replacement job no problem, plus the guy that works for me is a pretty good mechanic. I have every tool possible except the press, and I have at least a few friends that have presses.

But I admit alot of what you are describing makes me a little uncomfortable, I thought it would be a straight forward part replacement, but sounds like there are some variables.

I know I can handle the hub removal and maybe when I see it all apart I'll figure it out, but if I have to bring it to the shop to be done right, it wont hurt my pride any. I would probably bring it to the JD dealer as they may be familiar with any quirks with the specs.

Thanks for the experience.

JB

 

[reasley]

Richard, do you have the exact same model as me, 4310?

I thought I could handle a seal replacement job no problem, plus the guy that works for me is a pretty good mechanic. I have every tool possible except the press, and I have at least a few friends that have presses.

But I admit a lot of what you are describing makes me a little uncomfortable, I thought it would be a straight forward part replacement, but sounds like there are some variables.

I know I can handle the hub removal and maybe when I see it all apart I'll figure it out, but if I have to bring it to the shop to be done right, it wont hurt my pride any. I would probably bring it to the JD dealer as they may be familiar with any quirks with the specs.

Thanks for the experience.

JB

Good evening, JB --

I have a 4300 but I reviewed a few previous posts on the site and I would bet that your hub is the same as mine.

A little more discussion on the seal: it is not the "traditional" one-piece seal, where the sealing surface "rides" in the surface of the hub, instead, it is a two-piece seal and the second part of the seal is attached fro minside the housing after the outer seal ring is installed on the housing. Also, the second part does *not* rotate on the surface of the hub; instead, it is "fixed" to the surface of the hub (read: a resistance fit, not bonded) then, as the hub rotates, this inner seal rotates against the "outer" seal (the one pressed into the housing.

I have done a lot of automotive work through the years and had never encountered one of these before. After doing a little web research, apparently they are quite common in heavy-duty applications and quite common in the trucking industry.

After doing the job, I agree that, if you don't do it yourself, I would take it to the JD dealership and let them install it.

If you do end up doing it yourself, the seal installer from John Deere is just $30. The part number is JDG11067.

Note that I have posted the procedure on a new thread called " Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals," so that it can be found easily if needed . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

 

[JB4310]

Good evening, JB --

Note that I have posted the procedure on a new thread called " Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals," so that it can be found easily if needed . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas

OK thanks again,
I'll check out your other thread.

The thing stopped leaking, not even a drop now :confused2: checked the level and it was right up where it should be and looked clean as honey.

JB.