OK to push trees over with a box blade?

[Chilly807]

I was a tad cranky when I discovered that my rear blade power angle wouldn't work with the blade reversed, so I was limited to either pulling with it or pushing gently with the curve of the blade to tidy up. Then I started reading about damage to lift arms and casings and decided I could live with it the way it was.

After reading this thread I've decided I'm really OK with using it the way I do.

About the only implement I've seen that was obviously designed to push back with is a rear bucket or "scoop", or a rear blade that's reversible. Having read a few threads about damage, it's becoming clear they have to be used with care.

It's easy to underestimate the amount of pressure a tractor can exert, enough to uproot a tree and break cast iron like it was pine.

Some of the threads that describe pushing over trees with the loader bucket raised 5 or 6 feet off the ground have me scratching my head too. They're really not designed for that, it's an easy way to twist a loader out of shape.

If I'm into jobs like that, I'll cut the tree off 5 or 6 feet above the ground, then wrap a chain around the top of the stump and pull it over. Leave lots of stump for leverage, they'll come out, especially if you can weaken the root system on the opposite side from the pull. Lots of folks use a single moldboard plow or a subsoiler to rip the roots loose.

Sorry to hear about the damage, though, it's a tough way to learn what they won't stand up to.

Sean

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Just broke one last month on my L3130, Case, Brake RH TD020-28622 is about $400, but got lucky as the dealer had a burned L3400 and the part was the same and got it for $200. You have to take off the axle casing, the Rops and in my case the backhoe sub frame . Then you need to take the brake case off and transfer all the parts to the new one. will be doing this at the 400 hour service am at 395 hours right now.

Broke the casting because I had the backhoe on and one of the chains holding the arms up out of the way came off while I was backing up and the arm dropped and got twisted to the side breaking the pin and casting off.

Will attack this project when things dry out as we are having quite a spring with all the rain and It was snowing this morning at 950 feet elevation.

Davidf Kb7uns

 

[jake98]

I'd have to drive over the virgin snow before blading it off the driveway.

They work really well in forward pulling snow, I pull to a pile and then push the pile off backwards. Man, I can't take this heat, when's winter comming?

 

[k0ua]

Alright Bep, I know this may be a sore or at least sensitive subject, but for the good of the rest of us who have pushed with our blades backwards, tell us how fast were you going when you hit the stump going backwards with the boxblade? So that we might know just how delicate they are, because a lot of us have done or are doing more or less the same thing. Thanks

James K0UA

 

[beppington]

Alright Bep, I know this may be a sore or at least sensitive subject, but for the good of the rest of us who have pushed with our blades backwards, tell us how fast were you going when you hit the stump going backwards with the boxblade? So that we might know just how delicate they are, because a lot of us have done or are doing more or less the same thing. Thanks

No ramming at all. That is the truth. I fairly gently (seriously) put the box blade against the tree, then put a little more backward pressure on it, with the tractor in Low range & my HST+ turned on, & while pushing it hard, lifted the 3PH at the same time. Same thing I've done successfully many times over the past few months. Pops the tree & its root ball right up out of the ground ... until the 3PH breaks that is. I can guarantee I won't be doing it that way anymore :thumbsup: Now it's likely that the tree wasn't perfectly centered on the box blade, & that caused the right side lift arm to take the brunt of the forces.

If I had been ramming trees this way, I'd fess up ... What do I have to lose at this point.

Did I mention I will not be doing it this way any more?

 

[k0ua]

No ramming at all. That is the truth. I fairly gently (seriously) put the box blade against the tree, then put a little more backward pressure on it, with the tractor in Low range & my HST+ turned on, & while pushing it hard, lifted the 3PH at the same time. Same thing I've done successfully many times over the past few months. Pops the tree & its root ball right up out of the ground ... until the 3PH breaks that is. I can guarantee I won't be doing it that way anymore :thumbsup: Now it's likely that the tree wasn't perfectly centered on the box blade, & that caused the right side lift arm to take the brunt of the forces.

If I had been ramming trees this way, I'd fess up ... What do I have to lose at this point.

Did I mention I will not be doing it this way any more?

Thanks, for letting us know. I have done my last "push backward trick"
cause that broken casting does not look pretty.

James K0UA

 

[DAY]

It appears that I am not the only one to use the rear blade as a snowplow! I also have a walk behind blower and the Yella Fella when things get serious- and that is the problem for many of us in areas of the country where we don't often get enough "serious' snow for us to buy "serious" equipment- AKA a front mount blower, plus 4WD, cab, chains, etc. (we DO own Long Johns)

So we complain and break things- and them you tell you-all about it, for your edification and merriment!

 

[RoyJackson]

It appears that I am not the only one to use the rear blade as a snowplow!

Nope, a lot of folks use those rear blades for plowing. I'd guess the majority plow in reverse too (I used to...did for about 4-5 years).
I've also plowed running forward.
But now I just use the loader bucket...maybe not quite as quick as the rear blade, but quick enough for me.
Like you, I don't get enough snow (normally) to purchase a blower or other dedicated snow removal device. Every few years we (in south central PA) do get a Nor'Easter the dumps 2 feet or more. But that's not that common, and my drive is only 150'...so a bit more work every few years is the price.

 

[Reg]

I'm in the "some don't" category as of last night at ~9 pm. Crud. I wish it was only the arm(s) that bent ... snapped the cast housing pin holding piece right off. I didn't notice the arm was bending.

Anybody care to see pics?

Why do box blades have a blade on the back?

Dang - I hate this kind of "live & learn" lesson.

Youch !!!
I was about to express exactly the thought that you would be lucky to get away with folded lift arms, but busting them into the axle could co$TYa.
Getting lugs welded back on is gonna be "tricky".

Box blades have blades on the back for back filling, i.e. for pushing LOOSENED dirt and fill around.
Also for some front smoothing, i.e. top link extended to keep the front blade a couple of inches off the surface.

The rear blade is NOT for digging, cutting, pushing things down, etc.
AFAIK, BICBW,,,

 

[Reg]

I'm gonna half-way heed this advice, so maybe I'll be the next one breaking the casting. It works too good pushing snow to not use it, but I'm gonna definately take it slower. Famous last words...
Maybe when I hear what it cost Bep I'll rethink that tho.

I do it with my little tractor.
SLOWLY ...and when I get to the snow bank it just rides up.
This is with the concave face of the blade facing forwards, so the conVEX face is what I push the snow with when backing.
I don't hit curbs with the rear blade, I do enough of that with the loader bucket's cutting edge.