Clamp vs Screw electrode holder

[Haywire]

What's the pros and cons as you fellas see them?

If I had to list a gripe about the PA200, it would be fiddling around with that screw head changing electrodes. I think when I lengthen the cables, I am going to get a clamp type electrode holder.

Ian

 

[gwdixon]

My PA200 came with the clamp type. And I lengthened the stinger cable like you plan to do. It will be expensive. You can replace the entire cable or use the original for a whip so it won't cost so much.

A Fortney clamp type was used to replace the OE Everlast clamp. Probably doesn't make much difference but I'm so cheap that I burn the rods right down to a nub and scorch the plastic insulation. It is nice to have a back-up.

 

[crazyal]

I like the screw style. I started off with a clamp but if the rod stuck while trying to strike an arc all too often the clamp would slip off requiring me to stop, break the rod free, then clamp it again and start over. I'm guessing if I used it more and was better at striking an arc it wouldn't matter as much.

 

[Haywire]

Yes, I plan on getting some 2ga butt splices and just adding onto the original cables. Replace the electrode holder with a clamp type and crimping a new terminal onto the cable to reuse the work clamp.

Al, I was using some 3/32 tonight and stuck a rod. The rod wouldn't let go (just bent back and forth like a noodle) and I couldn't just release the rod from the holder in a quick manner, It just got hotter and hotter. That was what made me decide to change it out.

Ian

 

[rankrank1]

....The rod wouldn't let go (just bent back and forth like a noodle) and I couldn't just release the rod from the holder in a quick manner, It just got hotter and hotter. That was what made me decide to change it out.....

Ian

I prefer a good clamp style stinger for this reason as you can quickly unclamp from a stuck rod to let the rod cool and break it free. You can usually save most of the rod this way too. I simply use side cutters to cut off any portions lacking flux or portions where the flux is severely burnt.

The clamp style stinger's ability to release the rod quickly is also better in my opinion if welding with a marginal supply power sources. (e.g. Using a dryer outlet that has a 30 amp breaker to feed a 50 amp welder. Actually works fine on lower welder settings that pull 30 amps or less as long as you do not stick a rod. With the clamp style stinger you can easily release the stuck rod before you trip the circuit breaker. Also, if I was going to ever try emergency welding with 3 car batteries hooked in series then I would only use a clamp style stinger for safety reasons in case I ever stuck a rod. I do not believe welding would hurt the car batteries in any way. However, I do believe sticking a rod would not be good on the batteries if you had no way of quickly releasing from the stuck rod. Prolonged stuck rod could create a stiuation where even more hydrogen gas is expelled from a battery causing a battery to explode - not good for the battery or me).

 

[travis potter]

I only use a clamo because you can damage the welder if the rod sticks and you can't un hook in a hurry. A old lincoln tombston it won't hurt but a inverter can burn the boards in a hurry, don't ask how I know..................

 

[mrmikey]

Own preference but I prefer the shortstub (screw type)....Mike

 

[RickB]

My Miller Thunderbolt came with a clamp type, but I miss the screw style that my ex-partner always insisted on when we were farming. I don't weld enough these days to let it bother me.

 

[Haywire]

I suppose if I had thought about it, pulling the ground clamp off would have worked just as well.

Ian

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

The tong type would be my choice as well and I have registered my opinion about it several times. The stub holders stink. But that is a 10.00 fix.