Chains vs Rubber Straps for Rotary Cutter

[eastexan]

Chain grade doesn't matter much. It will not be carrying a load at any point. Any cheap 5/16" chain will work.

You may want to consider galvanized if rust puts you off. Even then, the coating will be nicked and point of rust started there as well as where the chain is welded on. Paint will work for a while.

The reason I asked was that I saw an ad for an optional OEM chain guard for a particular mower that advertised the chains were held in place with an easily removable rod for replacing broken chains. So apparently they can break.

I was wondering that if maybe the reason they break was they were a certain hardness like a shear pin that would break before tearing up the bracket they're attached to.

 

[whistlepig]

The reason I asked was that I saw an ad for an optional OEM chain guard for a particular mower that advertised the chains were held in place with an easily removable rod for replacing broken chains. So apparently they can break.

I was wondering that if maybe the reason they break was they were a certain hardness like a shear pin that would break before tearing up the bracket they're attached to.

I really don't know how one could break a 5/16" chain on a chain guard. If something got a hold of a 5/16" chain with enough force to break it a person needs to readjust their mowing style. If you are looking for a tough grade of chain Grade 70 is pretty tough stuff.

 

[Alan L.]

In those conditions you won't have to worry about taking a rubber shield off. It won't last a full day before being ripped off.

My Rhino has rubber. Its 12 years old and has never needed replacing. I've hit many a rock, branch, and limb.

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, when I eventually took the rear chain guard off that five footer, there were a lot of links missing, and even more that were pretty mangled. It's clear that particular cutter would have done better with either sturdier chain or reasonably thick laminated rubber. Probably 1/2" or thicker in some sort of a saw tooth design to minimize clumping.

//greg//

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The reason I asked was that I saw an ad for an optional OEM chain guard for a particular mower that advertised the chains were held in place with an easily removable rod for replacing broken chains. So apparently they can break.

I was wondering that if maybe the reason they break was they were a certain hardness like a shear pin that would break before tearing up the bracket they're attached to.

I've got a pair of Bush Hog 406 mowers that have been used in my commercial mowing operation for 4 years now. I don't keep exact records on the hours of use regarding mowers, but they've logged somewhere in the neighborhood of 8,000 to 8,500 hours in some of the roughest conditions you'll put a mower in. (Enough use to literally wear out both sets of laminated rubber tail wheels...) Not one single chain link has been damaged or missing........I doubt seriously that very many folks could log that many hours of personal use IN A LIFETIME.... With a total of eight 15' batwings, two 6' single spindle, one 7' single spindle, and two 8' dual spindle mowers in high hour operation, I sorta have an advantage of comparing more hours of use in a single days operation than most users would see in years of use.

Buy low quality "junk", get junk results....Buy a well made, high quality mower (along with it's high quality accessories) ...get quality results.


Obviously, SOME PEOPLE can break an anvil with a 2" feather....as evidenced above......

 

[gwdixon]

I'm confused. Your comments made me do a double take. I have a 5' King Kutter "Brush Hog" style mower in the shed. I set a framing square on the flat deck top and dropped it down in front. The blade tips extend about a 1/4" beyond the front edge of the deck. I bought the mower new and have the original blades.

I've noticed other mowers like this and was told that it allowed the blades to slash the thicker stuff before it got crammed under the deck.

Well, I'm not above learning something new. Just never saw it before.

If you don't have a front guard (obviously) then maybe it was left off for some reason. OSHA would have a fit if they knew.

LandPride was going to make me sign a waiver if the RCR2596 cutter was purchased without guards of some sort. I needed the mower immediately so swallowed hard and paid the $300 for F & R chains rather than take the time to make them.

With the arc of travel, the 1/4" blade stick out would only keep about the center 2" from being cut under the deck. Not sure if that explanation adds up.

 

[gwdixon]

The reason I asked was that I saw an ad for an optional OEM chain guard for a particular mower that advertised the chains were held in place with an easily removable rod for replacing broken chains. So apparently they can break.

I was wondering that if maybe the reason they break was they were a certain hardness like a shear pin that would break before tearing up the bracket they're attached to.

Those rods are not really "easily removable" if you've ever tried it. However, for non-welders it is better than nothing.

The "shear pin" idea is a good one but chain is pretty tough stuff. If you snagged it on something that won't break - maybe a chunk of rebar in concrete it may do other damage to the mower's sheet metal or chain mount before things break. It may even grind the tractor to a halt.

Like Farmwithjunk, I've never seen a broken chain and will respect his experience and observations. That said, the mower blade hitting a chain link on a homemade chain guard will eventually snap off a link or two. Don't ask how I know.

 

[eastexan]

Those rods are not really "easily removable" if you've ever tried it. However, for non-welders it is better than nothing.

The "shear pin" idea is a good one but chain is pretty tough stuff. If you snagged it on something that won't break - maybe a chunk of rebar in concrete it may do other damage to the mower's sheet metal or chain mount before things break. It may even grind the tractor to a halt.

Like Farmwithjunk, I've never seen a broken chain and will respect his experience and observations. That said, the mower blade hitting a chain link on a homemade chain guard will eventually snap off a link or two. Don't ask how I know.

I browsed several cutter websites looking for ideas on making my own chain guards. And while looking, I noticed there were 3 or 4 different methods of holding the chains in place. Some had what looked like rebar holding the chains and bent at both ends, and others had smooth rods bent at both ends.
But the one I was referring to that said "easily removable" had about 4 smooth rods holding sections of chain and the rods were held in place with cotter keys.

Apparently FWJ and others probably have Grade 43 or 70 chain. While Greg probably has a softer general purpose grade chain, possibly Grade 30.
I can see the softer grade chain breaking but maybe not by a "pulling" action while snagging on something. It would more likely break by a "snapping" or "whipping" action by a piece of hard flying debris hitting the chain in the middle of its length.

 

[Snaker]

Your cutter is similar to mine. The blades on mine are less than an inch inside the deck.

If you order the OEM chain guard, it extends the deck surface out a few inches before the chain is attached. I plan on making my own up.

If the manufacturer offers that sort of thing then it trashes my arguement. I don't like wood spears smashing into my tractor and tires anymore than the next guy.

For the folks that have never seen blades extend beyond the front of the deck, I tried to post my first internet picture to show this with utter failure. It uploaded to somewhere out there?.

 

[psyched123]

I have had a 6' Mohawk Brave for many years and finally decided to replace it. I bought a CountryLine 5' cutter from Tractor Supply. Compared to the Brave, it was 1/3rd the price and 1/3rd the weight. However, I've found that this is one tough little cutter.

I have been using it to mow my 100+ acre ranch in Texas where it goes through lots of briar and small scrub cedar with no problem. I really like the lighter weight which makes hooking it up so much easier and faster.

I added a great front guard made from a tire tread. Chain guards are too heavy, too expensive, and way to dusty. The typical rubber front guard is made of mud flap material and eventually tears up.

Get an old tire (free). Cut the sidewalls from the tread with a jigsaw (wood cutting blade). Measure and cut the tread with jigsaw with metal cutting blade to get through the steel belting. What you end up with is a front guard that totally safe, eliminates the dust up your back, will last forever, and doesn't cost anything. You'll love the "no dust" that this guard provides.