300cx Repair ??

[foggy1111]

I think I would spray a good penetrating oil where the bar goes into both shoes. Rotate the bar a few turns to loosen it up, then get a brass rod of smaller diameter than the bar and a BIG hammer and pound it thru the shoe.

Yeah.....except there is NO surface where you can place the brass rod to drive the pin. The spreader tube prevents anything to drive on. I already hit from the far side (opposite pin...and that did nothing.....must be a shoulder that prevents driving thru). I'm going to the JD Dealer to pick up my part and get some advice....maybe they have a magic bean.

I WILL get it apart....but I dont want to damage anything with the wrong approach (BTDT). I will post the solution.

 

[Gizmo2]

Did you raise the loader arms and have a look see into the ends of the arms. Trying to figure out what the ring around the bar is between the end of the bar and the pin fastener. Maybe for grease to flow?

 

[Lumberjack1903]

I changed mine, but don't recall any issues. Maybe just pull the carrier off the bar, don't try to push the bar thru the carrier.

That bar is just to keep the carriers in sync with each other. Properly spaced and in the same roll position.

My 300 came with an earlier style carrier that was prone to breakage, even though they never broke the dealer gave me 2 new ones. so I did a little experimenting with the old ones. made a Doctor Seuss contraption

JB

That is awesome! :thumbsup:

 

[Zebrafive]

Yeah.....except there is NO surface where you can place the brass rod to drive the pin. The spreader tube prevents anything to drive on. I already hit from the far side (opposite pin...and that did nothing.....must be a shoulder that prevents driving thru). I'm going to the JD Dealer to pick up my part and get some advice....maybe they have a magic bean.

I WILL get it apart....but I dont want to damage anything with the wrong approach (BTDT). I will post the solution.

By spreader tube, do you part 16 in the drawing? Looks like a solid bar to me. Drilled and tapped on each end with recessed grease fittings and two cross pins to hold it in place and keep each carrier in sinc with each other.

 

[JB4310]

The guy that changed mine said there was no issue at all, just slid the bar out. Gonna have use some persuasion.

JB.

 

[RoyJackson]

The guy that changed mine said there was no issue at all, just slid the bar out. Gonna have use some persuasion.

JB.

Just looked at mine (430 loader).
Looks like once those pins are out, it should slide. However, after several years in service...
So, if you have a brass rod (same diameter as the bar...or slightly smaller), I'd whale at with a 5 lb sledge after a liberal application of a penetrating oil.

 

[foggy1111]

By spreader tube, do you part 16 in the drawing? Looks like a solid bar to me. Drilled and tapped on each end with recessed grease fittings and two cross pins to hold it in place and keep each carrier in sinc with each other.

That is exactly what I have....except.....my solid bar was broken on the right side at the cross pin (about 6" from the end). Thats why I could rotate the bar while the end did not turn. After working the pin on the right side for a while I was able to pull it out of the "shoe" and loader mast end. Then with a 5 lb hammer and a punch I was able to drive the remaining shaft free after working it from both ends with a punch and hammer (after removing the grease zerks). The shaft is smaller diameter in the middle - so just about 6" on either end is a tight fit. Mine had some burrs at the cross holes and where it was broken. The burrs were the retaining means for the broken shaft on the right side. :confused2: Yikes....glad that didnt fall off too!

The exploded drawing in the above post is correct......I became fooled when the part was broken (could rotate) and was so stubborn to remove. For a time.....I thought the bar was a 3 peice affair (with outside pins fitting into a reciever-style center).

The good news is my new "shoe" came in at the JD dealer......the bad news is that he did not have the replacement shaft in stock.....and it will be in on Monday. The shaft cost another $135 IIRC.

I took the grapple (and old JD shoe for a pattern) to a welding shop to rebuild the mounts correctly ( I hope).....because I dont have a torch or abilty to do whats needed. I'm also adding some metal bars to the center of the grapple to prevent branches from going through and getting to my tractor. I suppose by the time I am done this little episode is going to cost me $400 in repairs? and some repair time. The needed gussets coulda prevented most of it. Tho....I'm not too sure this shaft failure was a result of the grapple hook failure.....I (or the former owner) likely snagged the shaft on a stump or ?? Easy to do on this model loader when back-dragging, etc.

Working in timber and stumps is a pistol. I'll be glad when I get done clearing the timber.

 

[Zebrafive]

I bet the grapple twisting off broke the shaft. I could have broke at either side.

I'd ask the welding shop if they could fix it.

 

[foggy1111]

I bet the grapple twisting off broke the shaft. I could have broke at either side.

I'd ask the welding shop if they could fix it.

You could be right about how the shaft broke. I dont beleive it was broke for too long.....or it would have worked free.....to only cause more problems on the opposiste side of my current problems.

I dont think welding this hardened steel shaft is a good idea. I'm not sure the repair would hold up.....and another broken shaft could cost too many bux in repairs IMO. Also the area of the break is machined to a close fit with a casting....so the weld would have to be turned on a lathe...ect. I dont think so.

THat shaft is in a pretty vulnernable spot on these tractors. I gotta remember to watch it when back-dragging.

 

[B58Hustler]

That big hit to corner of the loader may also put the loader booms and mast out of alignment. Check the front brace, it should sit square to the weight bracket and its face should ideally be flush with the face of the weight bracket. The steel brace connected by 4 bolts to the casting brace could be sprung. The bolt head adjusting screws at the loader mast need about the same length of exposed thread. The loader frame could be out left to right as well as up and down. If your new timer rod is not going in easy the frame alignment could be the problem. If things go together ok, but the standard bucket on and adjust per the loader's manual instructions. Good Luck!