3-Point Hitch 169D 3 point hitch is weak

   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#61  
After 6 pages I encourage you to go back to post #6 and try this test. Based on the suddenness of your problem I do not believe your problem is your fluid and screen. Not saying it doesn't need to be addressed. I have read more than 1 thread of a sheared pump key and the friction between the pump coupling and drive shaft turning the pump enough to put up just a little flow. I cannot see how you can do harm if you try my suggestion. :thumbsup:

I would have never thought of that. :confused2: i will have to check that out. thanks! :thumbsup:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Well, i am getting ready to go work on my YM169D here pretty quick and have yanmar going through my mind since I just finished drawing a YM1610D and scanned it onto my computer. :thumbsup: i will let y'all know how it goes. :)
 

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   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #63  
Well, i am getting ready to go work on my YM169D here pretty quick and have yanmar going through my mind since I just finished drawing a YM1610D and scanned it onto my computer. :thumbsup: i will let y'all know how it goes. :)

Nice drawing. :thumbsup:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#65  
I just got back from the farm from working on my tractor. The first thing I did was I drained out the hydraulic oil which hadn't been changed in a while and then commenced to remove the hydraulic pump. Once I pulled off the pump I noticed that it is not a keyed pump, it has a long bolt on the end and turns with the engine. So i put it all back together. By then, all the hydro oil had been drained so I pulled the rear wheel off and got out the hydraulic filter. It has residue from gasket maker on it and it did have some metal shavings. Part of those shavings are from the hydraulic dip stick but the rest i don't know. :(:confused2: So i washed the filter in a coffee can of Diesel and used the air compressor and blew it clean. Then I reinstalled it and put in the new hydraulic fluid to test the hydraulic pressure i was getting. We first hooked up the gauge to the hydraulic port under my shift lever and found that there is 0 psi with the 3 point in float and 500 psi under no load. We got it to 1000 psi with 450 pounds on it but it would not lift the weight. Then we hooked the gauge to the line that feeds into the cylinder and got 3000 psi so that means the pump is good. :) That also means I have a seal out in the cylinder so now I have a general idea where to start really taking stuff apart. :eek:
 

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   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #66  
How did you get the 3000#? You pretty much had to have something dead headed to do that.:confused:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #67  
If he put the gauge on the pressure line from the pump to the valve he did dead head it as there is no bypass, in that setup! :eek:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#68  
How did you get the 3000#? You pretty much had to have something dead headed to do that.:confused:

Yes, it was dead headed. On the hydro ports we got up to 1000 psi under load.
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #69  
How did you get the 3000#? You pretty much had to have something dead headed to do that.:confused:

If he put the gauge on the pressure line from the pump to the valve he did dead head it as there is no bypass, in that setup! :eek:

Yes, it was dead headed. On the hydro ports we got up to 1000 psi under load.

I just got back from the farm from working on my tractor. The first thing I did was I drained out the hydraulic oil which hadn't been changed in a while and then commenced to remove the hydraulic pump. Once I pulled off the pump I noticed that it is not a keyed pump, it has a long bolt on the end and turns with the engine. So i put it all back together. By then, all the hydro oil had been drained so I pulled the rear wheel off and got out the hydraulic filter. It has residue from gasket maker on it and it did have some metal shavings. Part of those shavings are from the hydraulic dip stick but the rest i don't know. :(:confused2: So i washed the filter in a coffee can of Diesel and used the air compressor and blew it clean. Then I reinstalled it and put in the new hydraulic fluid to test the hydraulic pressure i was getting. We first hooked up the gauge to the hydraulic port under my shift lever and found that there is 0 psi with the 3 point in float and 500 psi under no load. We got it to 1000 psi with 450 pounds on it but it would not lift the weight. Then we hooked the gauge to the line that feeds into the cylinder and got 3000 psi so that means the pump is good. :) That also means I have a seal out in the cylinder so now I have a general idea where to start really taking stuff apart. :eek:

Your pump was good! Is it anymore? Did is shear?
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Your pump was good! Is it anymore? Did is shear?

No, it did not shear. The tractor was shut off after 2 seconds of running. The main objective was to see if the pump was working as it should. :thumbsup:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#71  
Okay, yesterday we dismantle my tractor to get the hydraulic problem fixed. I printed some pages off my manual and noticed that there are only 2 O-Rings in the cylinder, so locating the bad one was not to bad of an issue. So we removed the ROPS, seat bracket, lift arm, 3 point hitch, and the cylinder housing and took a look at what the problem may be. We pulled the cylinder head out and noticed that the O-ring had a small divot on the edge and had slightly collapsed over time of use and wear. I was really surprised at how simple the hydraulic system is on this tractor. So then we went on the search for a new O-Ring. Napa and John Deere did not have them but luckily Kubota had some in stock. Continued....
 

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   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#72  
So after i got my O-Ring, I reassembled my hydraulics and tested the hitch. It lifted good, so we put the ROPS and other parts back on. Finally, I had it all in one piece. Since the farm I had it on has a lot of big machinery, I pulled up next to one of the John deere's, a 4255 i believe, and got a size comparison picture. Not much of a comparison though. :laughing::p Since there were no smaller implements there, I tried lifting the tongue of a 12' dist but only lifted it about 1 foot. Then i tried to lift the hitch end of a manure pit stirrer but couldnt since it was for a category 2 quick hitch. So I drove back to my grandpa's after seeing if those Skid steer R4's would fit (2" to small so no go) and hooked up to my tiller which is the heaviest implement I have used on it. Picked it right on up. :thumbsup: So i hooked it up to my rake and can now focus on the smaller things like maybe getting a new seat, fixing the SMV sign, cleaning up the fenders, fixing the front and back right side tires, and wiring in new flashing lights. :thumbsup:
 

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   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#73  
I am very lucky on this repair as it only cost about $10 in the end with the new O-Ring and some gasket maker. :thumbsup:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #74  
Well alrighty! Nice pictures, might help the next guy. Glad your on the road again. :thumbsup:
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Well alrighty! Nice pictures, might help the next guy. Glad your on the road again. :thumbsup:

Thanks! I just graded 3 arenas with my tractor and it did very well, I did slightly smell some burning rubber when I was working it so does that mean that the fan belt is loose or is it time to replace? :confused: Other than that i had no problems to note. :)
 
   / 169D 3 point hitch is weak #76  
Thanks! I just graded 3 arenas with my tractor and it did very well, I did slightly smell some burning rubber when I was working it so does that mean that the fan belt is loose or is it time to replace? :confused: Other than that i had no problems to note. :)

No idea? Smell with your nose all over till you find the spot its coming from.
 

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