Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $

[Coyote machine]

Sorry, won't happen again.

No Problem, just wanted to make you aware of it for future reference. Basically one ought to be contributing to the thread originator's query, or asking them any questions that may come up - or as stated, if you want to diverge the conversation ask the person you want to speak to to carry on a private discussion; or start a new thread about your tractor, for instance, and ask what you want to know.

FWIW, I noted you were asking about pallet forks in another thread. I have a pair that are made by Woods under the brand Alitec. The are QA type and work great. They are good for pallet work but won't lift 20 sheets of 3/4 ply because the loader's lift capacity is rated at the pins not out several feet from the loader. I also think you will likely be using both sets of rear remotes. One should be working your grapple and the other your Bush hog, yes? What model did you get?
I'm buying a Woods BB72X.

Note: I'm allowed to digress my own thread!?

Enjoy your new tractor.

 

[rswyan]

Coyote machine,

Thanks for the report on the grapple - looks like an interesting design, heavy-duty yet relatively low weight. Keep us posted on how it's working out for you ... and post some pics when ya get a chance.

 

[mtr1950]

BB72X.

 

[IslandTractor]

So I'm back on the thread I started, which was/is about a grapple for my DK-40SE/HST, and the best bang for the buck.

.....

I'm happy to report that I have awesome lift capacity for whatever I grab; and today was the first day of use and I burned about 1/3 of a tank in use throughout the day. Basically nonstop use, moving huge trees, long log lengths, carrying six sections of stockade fence to my burn pile in ONE bite! :thumbsup: and moving, digging out, and lifting rocks of all sizes, from HUGE to relatively small.

All expert opinions aside, the space between the grapple 'tines' on the lower section were and are very adept at picking up things like rocks, by using the clamp down of the top jaw to grab almost any sized object by wedging it between the lower and upper jaws. The closed loop of the upper jaw makes for very good strength and clamping force on whatever the object may be. Brush is also NO problem whatsoever to scoop up, and then, to bring the upper jaw's full clamping force to bear upon the pile, which further scoops the brush into the confines of the space between upper and lower jaws.

I give this unit a full fledged rating of 10!

....

It is unquestionably one of the best, most productive tools I have EVER owned, and trust me, I do not give frivolous reviews of any tool I've owned/used, and I use all of them to their absolute maximum capacity and then some.

I wholehearted disagree with the rants, arguments and endless opining of the benefits of heavy duty vs. light/medium duty, and vice-versa.

This particular log grapple is clearly designed to be and IS heavy duty in construction and function. I defy ANYONE to break a tine off this unit without first breaking their loader, regardless of how much horsepower one may put behind the grapple. Lateral force, asymmetrical force, anything short of thermo nuclear is not going to bend or break anything on it.
AND, it does NOT compromise lift capacity at all. I lifted and moved rock the size of which I'm sure my excavator will be asking me tomorrow how I lifted/moved them without his gigantic 703 with bucket hyd thumb.

If it could be broken I'd be the one to do it. I traded in my DK-35 with 350 hours in less than a year because the loader was too weak to do what I need it to do. The KL-401 loader is just strong enough to take on this grapple, and the potential trouble one could easily get into with it.
The grapple's weight is nominal for what it is: 359+lbs.

FWIW, I appreciate all those who contributed to this thread and made suggestions, etc.

.

Glad you like your grapple. A rule of thumb here on TBN (very few if any exceptions) is that everyone loves whatever grapple they own. Any grapple is WAY better than no grapple and they are amazing tools.

That said, I have to disagree with your global conclusions based on one days work with one grapple. The grapple you have is a specialty grapple. It is ideal for someone doing forestry work and can certainly be used for many other tasks but it is also clear that it is not a general purpose grapple. I am sure from the photos and your review that someone doing mostly tree removal, log transport, and general moving of long items would be very well served by this grapple. If I were running a logging operation it would be at the top of my list of possible grapples. However, your protests not withstanding, there are compromises that make this style less ideal for many other general purposes. Here are a few examples. You can clearly wedge a rock between one of the tines and the upper jaw and obviously can handle a large rock that spans both lower tines, however, if you needed to move a dozen 12 inch slabs of field stone it would take you precisely 12 trips to do. No way you can get two rocks into that grapple at once. You pick up rocks like a hand picks up a stong with thumb and forefinger....it works but one at a time. A standard grapple picks up stones more like a hand with four fingers scaping into a pile and then inverting to hold them in the palm using gravity rather than the thumb(upper jaw) to secure the load. A standard grapple with lower tine spacing of 5-8 inches can literally be filled with rocks and make such a task in one trip. Same story with cut firewood. No way to carrry that with the logging grapple except once piece at time. To be fair, the standard bucket is about as good an implement as any for firewood and field stone, but these examples point out the disadvantage of two very strong bottom tines in lieu of six or more. A standard grapple can be used to dig up field stone just by root grappling. A logging grapple won't trap and "rake" the uncovered stones but just dislodge them.

I don't doubt for a minute that you can pick up piles of brush. I always argue with the clamshell grapple advocates that you don't need a wide upper jaw to hold brush as it is naturally "sticky" and self tangles. I do wonder how effective the logging grapple would be in capturing brush still in the ground. A standard grapple will stick several tines under a plant and you don't really need to aim, just set the grapple with lower tines slightly below the surface and drive into the brush (blackberry, briar etc). The logging grapple would need to be more carefully positioned to get one of the two lower tines under the middle of the brush roots. That would certainly work but the problem is that with most brush you cannot see the root area easily from the tractor seat as the branches obscure the view. I imagine that some other technique might be worked out (allowing the brush to be unrooted by the tractor FEL QA mounting plate like a bulldozer and then just using the grapple to carry it away for example). I haven't tried such a method with a logging grapple but it is not so efficient with a 4n1 bucket which needs to be used the same way. Easier to pop a bush out of the ground than to push it over.

I don't mean to knock the logging grapple and it certainly looks like a heavy duty build with a very moderate weight and price. For you it works well but I'd just caution other potential grapple purchasers to consider the type of work they will do before opting out of a standard light duty grapple configuration.

Regarding the construction and damage resistance of the logging grapple, it certainly does look stout. I would caution though that the rules of physics still apply and asymmetric lifts or pushing is not what these things are designed for (neither are the FEL arms). Grapples are damaged not by breaking tines off (that is almost impossible on any grapple) but rather by twisting the grapple out of true, bottom or top. I doubt the grapple or loader would survive undamaged if you twisted it for example by catching one end of a long log against a tree while traveling at moderate speed. It is a stout grapple to be sure but don't tempt fate or the principles of leverage.

You do owe us photos, don't think we will let you off the hook on that point!

 

[Coyote machine]

Island Tractor,
So noted, and all you stated makes sense. I can't argue with your formidable grapple knowledge, however I can say that one day for me is like a thousand years for the average person.:laughing: I worked for years as a tree expert in an large tree and crane service, when I was younger, and that gave me the unique opportunity to work with some of the best tools and their counterparts. We broke everything made; saws, cranes, trucks, bulldozers, you name it someone, not me, on the crew smashed or destroyed about every fine tool made by man.

So yes, the 9/16 thick steel of the grapple's lower tines will not likely bend or break before something else less strong like the FEL gives way due to physics and brute force exerted by OP error. I agree, it is fully a specialty tool and certainly has its limits. I took the comment of a landscaping pro who said she bent/broke tine(s) on her grapple.
Ideally, from my point of view in an ideal, expense is no object world, one would have three or four tractors with various equipment setup to stay on the particular tractor to accomplish specific jobs without the down time associated with swapping out PTO driven implements for instance.

Unfortunately , most of us with limited funds and family who shake their heads and say when a new mower arrives without prior notice, why do you need so many mowers?!

Obviously, if they are asking THAT question they just don't get it, and trying to explain it or justify why I don't sell what I already have is futile... agreed?

So for now I have one tractor I really like and various tools of destruction.

One thing I find holds true for most applications of tools is one size, type, (grapple, as but one example) does not fit all needs or everyone's applied use of the same tool.

You seem to be caught up in endless brier patches and such, which makes sense on an island. I am caught up in endless rocks, boulders, and myriad species of overgrown trees and let go over time pastures/fields.

One question aside the topic: do you encounter Japanese Knotwood at all? Also know as fake bamboo, it is an invasive species known to choke out other indigenous plant life, and native species of ground cover. It is becoming a problem in certain areas here in VT.

CM out.

 

[IslandTractor]

I agree CM the best option is to have one of each type of specialized implement. My CFO thinks I have already reached that point.

If you have a bunch of rocks to deal with my advice would be to take your grapple to Bob at MIE and see what kind of either permanent or removable cross linked extra lower tines could be fabricated. About 5 inches between tines is a pretty good rock collection distance. It will add so
E weight but will not interfer with anything the grapple does now and would make rock picking and brush or root digging much easier.

I haven't knowingly dealt with the Japanese plant you have. I have mostly what we call bull briar, blackberry, choke cherry and a few other invasives.

 

[Coyote machine]

I agree CM the best option is to have one of each type of specialized implement. My CFO thinks I have already reached that point.

If you have a bunch of rocks to deal with my advice would be to take your grapple to Bob at MIE and see what kind of either permanent or removable cross linked extra lower tines could be fabricated. About 5 inches between tines is a pretty good rock collection distance. It will add so
E weight but will not interfer with anything the grapple does now and would make rock picking and brush or root digging much easier.

I haven't knowingly dealt with the Japanese plant you have. I have mostly what we call bull briar, blackberry, choke cherry and a few other invasives.

I'd go to MIE if I was anywhere near them, but I'm not. I have people here who can do whatever I need, when and if I decide to add something to the grapple.