Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $

   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #91  
Coyote machine said:
Why not use fiberglass for the repair- wouldn't it stick to the ABS like material?

Not from what I can find on plastic repair. Methylacrylate type bonding agents are recommended but I need some filler material and cannot find it except in industrial quantities.

Still, the sunshade is fine just don't whack it under branches! I believe the current models are made of ABS which would be much easier to repair.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #92  
The example of the bramble thicket supports my suggestion of a pin-on upper jaw. You can rake through brambles, but the two teeth on the Gator grapple won't grab them (unless they are REALLY thick!). If the upper jaw sort of clamped down on things (ie, with shallower/finer teeth), rather than just stabbing them, then the smaller/looser items could be captured and held much easier. I'm visualizing something like a downward-facing toothbar with tooth spacing of 6" to 8" across the width of the grappple...or even a jaw with teeth shaped like the teeth on a sickle bar mower...only stronger!
For logs and big rocks, the existing arrangement works fine, and, as Island suggests, a wider upper jaw would likely increase the risk of twisting the grapple when moving heavy loads.
BOB
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #93  
rd_macgregor said:
The example of the bramble thicket supports my suggestion of a pin-on upper jaw. You can rake through brambles, but the two teeth on the Gator grapple won't grab them (unless they are REALLY thick!). If the upper jaw sort of clamped down on things (ie, with shallower/finer teeth), rather than just stabbing them, then the smaller/looser items could be captured and held much easier. I'm visualizing something like a downward-facing toothbar with tooth spacing of 6" to 8" across the width of the grapple

Interesting difference in our experiences with briar and brambles. I understand that driving the grapple in then clamping and backing out might leave you with just a few stringy bits in the grapple jaw. When I do this type of clearing I tend to drive the grapple forward until the tractor cannot move further then I curl to rip and then I close the grapple on a full load. The stuff sticks together so when I back out I am dragging material that is not even inside the grapple. Alternatively I will "dump" at the end of my push and then close the grapple jaw to scape along the ground. Both techniques work well for me with my two tine upper jaw. I don't doubt that a multiple tine upper jaw would get even more but I get enough in one full bite that I cannot see to drive forward so I've never seen that difference as a deficiency. The area my grapple doesn't do so well with is grasping things like hanging vines or single small cut firewood pieces and stuff like that.

I do like the idea of a pin on upper jaw extension in theory but I rarely go after just brambles and I'd be concerned about twisting the upper jaw if it was installed. Maybe we need a hydraulically controlled extension!
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #94  
Steve, thanks for the advice, lots to think about, leaning toward your's and Islands direction, for sure need a grapple, how do you like your KB2485 BH?

I really like the KB2485 BH, but apparently not as much as my friends and neighbors. Get a lot of requests from them to borrow it. Of course that's a no-no (borrowing that is), so I wind up going and doing it myself. Sometimes, if I'm lucky, they'll even pay me with a fill up on diesel. Seriously, it is very handy. My only complaint is I have to keep tightening the bolts on the subframe braces. If they loosen too much, during a hard dig the seat will be pushed into the back of the cab. There have been some on here who have actually welded these connections. I'm considering doing that myself.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #95  
Islandtractor, ANBO gave me a price today for the 72" GR-M with a valve kit and shipping included $4000.00, still on the hunt, my mind is still not made up on the length. Most of what we will be doing is brush work, very little rock moving, some cut off log salvage for firewood. I do like that top shade and will get one.
Steve, thanks for the info, I'm looking at the Woods BH90-X with either the optional hydraulic or mechanical thumb. Just looking right now, I like what I read of both the Kioti and Woods backhoes.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #96  
mtr1950 said:
Islandtractor, ANBO gave me a price today for the 72" GR-M with a valve kit and shipping included $4000.00, .

I'm surprised they can charge that much given it is their medium duty model. Obviously it is your decision but I am quite confident you would not move much extra brush with that than with a simple $1000 48" Gator. The Gator will clearly move more small trees or logs in a single bite too. Just compare the open space from the side with grapples closed. Both are strong and properly operated they will both last a very long time. Wide Anbo's can be bent just as easily as narrow mild steel grapples. More complicated to fix too.

Bottom line: Everybody loves whatever grapple they buy. Some of us just pay a lot less than others. Good luck with your decision
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #97  
I've never seen curved bottom tines except on the Millonzi. I know Gator has straight bottom tines and I believe WRLong does too. Kinda odd. I'd love to know why these companies used straight tines. I cannot think of an advantage of straight over curved but I've never actually used a straight tined grapple.

I like the curved bottom of the Millonzi also-but sadly when I had $$ to buy one they where gone so I got the Markham/Gator. The only reason I can think for the straight bottom is less wasted material.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #98  
kennyd said:
I like the curved bottom of the Millonzi also-but sadly when I had $$ to buy one they where gone so I got the Markham/Gator. The only reason I can think for the straight bottom is less wasted material.

I thought about that trio but with a CNC system and plasma or other high tech cutting there really shouldn't be much difference. I wonder if these little grapple manufacturers are using equipment like that but they must be. It is too expensive for amateurs but a pro fabrication shop just has to have that capability. I suspect the builders are not users and they just don't think about all these details.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #99  
IslandTractor, I'm having trouble finding the Markham Gator web page, could you post the link. No matter what the length ANBO products are a lot of money, so I'm still on the hunt. My Kioti dealer and I are going to get together and go over what he is able to order, so far he has been straight with me, told me the DK40SE was just as good as the DK45SE and a lot less money, but had my mind made up on the 45. This Grapple is a not going to be something needed soon, so plan on taking my time and get the most for my money. So any and all ideas are welcome. Like I said this is my first tractor so lots to learn.
 
   / Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $ #100  
An often unappreciated fact by new buyers is that the dk40se, dk45se and dk50se are literally identical except for the bore of their engines and therefore piston size. Obviously people are willing to pay thousands of bucks for "bigger" engines but IMO your dealer is right. If running an A/C in a cab I can see getting the bigger engine but there are not many other reasons. All loader work would be identical. Few people buy bigger than six foot mowers or box blades or tillers etc and the 40 runs all of those easily. I think it must be the typical American and Russian love of bigger things. Why buy a F150 to drive to work or shop at Costco when you can spend more for a F250 or F350 to drive the same unloaded miles and use more fuel while your at it? I'm not meaning to dissuade you, just commenting on a very common phenomenon. IMO it boils down to the 40 plus, for the same money, a couple or three bonus extra high quality implements that will really help you get work done better and faster or spend the money on a few extra phantom horsepower you will rarely use.

Sorry for the rant. To answer your question, the Gator website has been down for "maintenance". Lord knows what that means. It is a small business so I'd suggest trying to call. Otherwise, WRLong sells very nice grapples of both types and you can order them through your dealer. Everything Attachments is another place to try. Good company too but their grapple is a bit pricy for what it is. Dehner welding is now building a grapple similar to Gator/Markham too. They sell via eBay.
 

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