pdp11
Silver Member
revitupfaster said:
That's about right, which is why I like that the 62D deck comes off so easily. Of course I also like the independent lift and diverter valve that others seem to disagree on the need for
2520 62d mower lift arms drag
- Thread starter Kep
- Start date
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That's about right, which is why I like that the 62D deck comes off so easily. Of course I also like the independent lift and diverter valve that others seem to disagree on the need for
megaboz
Platinum Member
I guess I am just picky and not real thrilled with the way it all works. Must admit that for a $2700 mower deck that there isn't a better fit and finish.
My solution to avoid $175 JD kit cost: I just bought a small "D" shaped clevis and mounted it through a hole that already exists in the steel fender support just above the MMM 3 point lift bellcrank. Then buy the right sized turnbuckle to reach a clevis pin that you put through the holes in the MMM 3 point lift bellcrank with a hitch pin to lock it in place. You connect the turnbuckle between the "D" clevis and the hitch pin. Leave the turnbuckle permanently hooked to the D ring and then hook it to the clevis pin down below while the 3 point arms all the way up, snug up the turnbuckle. This setup works just like the JD lock-up kit and will hold the MMM arms up as high as possible but it will only cost you $15. When you want to release the MMM arms you just put the 3 point arms up high, unscrew the turnbuckle a bit, and pull the hitch pin to remove the clevis pin and detach the turnbuckle. I leave the turnbuckle hanging there but to avoid it unscrewing I just shorten it up all the way until tight. I intend to eventually find just the right length of chain where I can use a fixed length chain in place of the turnbuckle. This would eliminate the need to turn anything and you can't lose a chain hanging from the top D ring. Need a picture? I could get some if desired.
danedgington
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 69
I'd like to see thos pics...
Not sure if I know how to post the pic but here goes.
Explanation, the clevis at the top is installed through a hole that already exists in the steel fender support that attaches to the axle housing and up to the fender. The bottom of the turnbuckle is connected to a pin that goes through the two holes in the top of the mower lift piece that rides on the 3 point arms. The pin is held in place with a small spring pin through a crosswise hole. I think all holes in the machine, the one in the fender mount and the two in the lift piece are the same holes used for the JD lockup kit. The parts required are a small D clevis, a turnbuckle, and a clevis pin with holes for the hitch pin. These can all be bought at any hardware store. I did have a little trouble finding the correct length turnbuckle. The way I use this mechanism is that while mowing these the turnbuckle is disconnected at the bottom and I leave it hanging from the clevis and I leave the pins in place on the lift mechanism on the bottom. In order not to lose these parts you have to screw the turnbuckle all the way to its shortest until tight and you have to leave the lower clevis pin in place with the spring pin installed. After I remove my deck I simply lift the mechanism up all the way using the 3 point hitch, unscrew the turnbuckles a few turns until long enough to reach the pins on the bottom, slide the bottom pins half way out after pulling the spring pins that hold them in place, slip the pin through the bottom of the turnbuckle and replace the spring pin, then snug up the turnbuckle. This whole setup cost about $6 per side. If you'd like pictures of all the individual parts layed out on a table I could do that.
Explanation, the clevis at the top is installed through a hole that already exists in the steel fender support that attaches to the axle housing and up to the fender. The bottom of the turnbuckle is connected to a pin that goes through the two holes in the top of the mower lift piece that rides on the 3 point arms. The pin is held in place with a small spring pin through a crosswise hole. I think all holes in the machine, the one in the fender mount and the two in the lift piece are the same holes used for the JD lockup kit. The parts required are a small D clevis, a turnbuckle, and a clevis pin with holes for the hitch pin. These can all be bought at any hardware store. I did have a little trouble finding the correct length turnbuckle. The way I use this mechanism is that while mowing these the turnbuckle is disconnected at the bottom and I leave it hanging from the clevis and I leave the pins in place on the lift mechanism on the bottom. In order not to lose these parts you have to screw the turnbuckle all the way to its shortest until tight and you have to leave the lower clevis pin in place with the spring pin installed. After I remove my deck I simply lift the mechanism up all the way using the 3 point hitch, unscrew the turnbuckles a few turns until long enough to reach the pins on the bottom, slide the bottom pins half way out after pulling the spring pins that hold them in place, slip the pin through the bottom of the turnbuckle and replace the spring pin, then snug up the turnbuckle. This whole setup cost about $6 per side. If you'd like pictures of all the individual parts layed out on a table I could do that.
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megaboz
Platinum Member
Neat idea, might have to steal the concept!
glc24
Platinum Member
Very nice bz1
I know what I'm getting at Tractor Supply today.
I agree. It will make the setup even better.:thumbsup:
Greg
I know what I'm getting at Tractor Supply today.
I agree. It will make the setup even better.:thumbsup:
Greg
glc24, thanks for reminding me about that. I think a chain would make this so much better and more like the factory lockup kit but still very cheap. I think chain is cheaper than the turnbuckle. Problem is if you want the linkage to be locked up pretty tight to it's highest possible position the chain pitch and number of links needs to be exactly right to get the exact correct length. That's why I've avoided doing this so far. Might be just trial and error to get it right. My first try would be to measure my turnbuckle length when tightened up and then a trip to the store and measure each size chain to see which one can be made to equal that measurement with a fixed number of links. I also suppose if you find a length of chain that is about right but a little long you could also squash a link or two a little shorter until you get the length you need. All it takes is a bigger hammer.