2520 62d mower lift arms drag

[Gobblin Tom]

I'm gonna have to take a closer look at mine, my bungee cord does not keep them up all the way....

 

[pkav32]

I'm gonna have to take a closer look at mine, my bungee cord does not keep them up all the way....

I was in the woods with my 2520 the other day. I had the zip ties holding it up. Well safe to say I will be taking it off from this point on. The bar that holds the mower deck went from a straight piece to a "c" shaped piece. Another trip to jd today to waste money bc I am lazy.

 

[Gobblin Tom]

I was in the woods with my 2520 the other day. I had the zip ties holding it up. Well safe to say I will be taking it off from this point on. The bar that holds the mower deck went from a straight piece to a "c" shaped piece. Another trip to jd today to waste money bc I am lazy.

Ouch!! Yeah I looked at mine before and it only looks likeke 4 pins to take it off?? Don't know about the black brackets on the back if I should remove them also?? I was thinking it might be easier to remove them then worry about bending them up...

 

[ttammag]

bz - You offered to post a photo of all your parts laid out on a table. While that would be very nice, a description of the size clevis, turnbuckle, and hitch pin that you used would be just as good.

 

[bz1]

I'll try to get some measurement of the parts and pictures. It was rather hard to find just the right combination since there are many makes and styles of these parts out there.

 

[scottrh]

glc24, thanks for reminding me about that. I think a chain would make this so much better and more like the factory lockup kit but still very cheap. I think chain is cheaper than the turnbuckle. Problem is if you want the linkage to be locked up pretty tight to it's highest possible position the chain pitch and number of links needs to be exactly right to get the exact correct length. That's why I've avoided doing this so far. Might be just trial and error to get it right. My first try would be to measure my turnbuckle length when tightened up and then a trip to the store and measure each size chain to see which one can be made to equal that measurement with a fixed number of links. I also suppose if you find a length of chain that is about right but a little long you could also squash a link or two a little shorter until you get the length you need. All it takes is a bigger hammer.

I use a 1/4 piece of chain on each side attached from an existing hole near the rear wheel gear assembly routed under the 62D frame cross link and then up through the hole in the frame arm that is used for the drive-over attachment pin. I just put a linch through the chain end so it does not go through. Not the exact tightest but pretty close. I wold post a pic but the 2520 is at the dealer for the rear tire rubbing design issue.

The above turn buckle idea looks great - makes me think this calls for a simple custom piece of steel with 2 holes in it.

 

[bz1]

Great idea Scottrh, a custom made aluminum stap with the holes the right distance would work great. The only advantage to the turnbuckle is you can tighten it up and pull the linkage up to its highest possible point. The linkage geometry is such that if the turnbuckle is just a tiny bit too long the lower arms hang down proportionally much more. But I think you are right in that a custom made piece of metal is a better idea than finding the correct length of chain. I like that.

Here is a pic of my hardware if anyone is still interested. The dimensions of the parts are:

Clevis: 1.4 inches long on the inside from the cross pin down to the inside of the curve

Turnbuckle: the most important dimension is the shortest it can be made. Mine is 7 and 1/16 inch from inside surface of one eye to the other, i.e. the longest inside dimension when the turnbuckle is screwed all the way to it's shortest position. Mine is an aluminum turnbuckle made by National. It was hard to find one that was beefy enough and could be screwed in short enough. When this one is cinched up tight on my machine there are only one or two threads left before it would bottom out. So it works fine but just barely short enough.

Pin: 7/16 diameter, 2 inches long

 

[bz1]

Not sure what happened to my pic, so here goes again.

 

[scottrh]

Not sure what happened to my pic, so here goes again.

BZ1 - I assume your turn-buckle approach works to hold the frame up with the MMM attached or not attached. My chain-through-the-frame-hole approach is only for when the MMM is not attached. Correct ?

 

[glc24]

makes me think this calls for a simple custom piece of steel with 2 holes in it.

DITTO!

After playing around,I just couldn't get the chain to fit just right. I wanted it to be as rigid as possible. So I just made a bar with two holes.

I used a piece of 1/2" thick x 1-1/4 wide with 1/2" holes spaced 8-5/16".

I angle cut the bottom to match the lower bracket position when raised.
I need to remove the left and right hand bottom brackets,and drill them out to 1/2". The top frame holes are fine,but these were just slightly under for some reason.
I'll take some pics when I get them installed.


Greg