18' trailer price check

[lostcause]

My concern was more about getting 3 or 4000lbs. of downforce on my hitch. My tractors run 6-7000 lbs with an attachment on the three point. If you get 6-7000 lbs of tractor up on a long lever between the back trailer axle and the hitch, its going to be pushing down pretty hard on the back of my truck.

i can't say i know anyone with a tilt equipment trailer, but i'd assume it works about like the thousands of tilt snowmobile trailers around here, though they are generally all single axles.

i believe that as you start loading the trailer the deck will start dropping. i don't think it could work any other way. you're never going to have any more than normal tongue load on the hitch. once you start to get the load past the axle group the springs and axles will start to equalize and the trailer will work toward its normal loaded stance. the highest tongue load will be at the final point where you park the tractor as you drive forward.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

That Hull quick tilt looks a little scary to me. All the weight looks to be on the rear trailer axle and the frame hitch when it is tilited. 9900 lbs. is alot of vertical load to be splitting between one trailer axle and my truck's frame hitch.

The tilts that keep both axles on the ground look alot more appealing to me.

It's on a 55/45 bias and we have only 50,000 (Fifty thousand) on the road. You're way off on this one. by the numbers, the axle is a whole whopping 10.8" further forward on an 18 foot deck as you would find on a dovetail 18 foot trailer.... really.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

i can't say i know anyone with a tilt equipment trailer, but i'd assume it works about like the thousands of tilt snowmobile trailers around here, though they are generally all single axles.

i believe that as you start loading the trailer the deck will start dropping. i don't think it could work any other way. you're never going to have any more than normal tongue load on the hitch. once you start to get the load past the axle group the springs and axles will start to equalize and the trailer will work toward its normal loaded stance. the highest tongue load will be at the final point where you park the tractor as you drive forward.

Wrong... go check the site... even has a video. tilts up, stays up until you tilt it down. Loads twice as fast as a pullout ramp trailer, which we also sell a few of. But, once you run one, you'll never touch a ramp again.

 

[lostcause]

Wrong... go check the site... even has a video. tilts up, stays up until you tilt it down. Loads twice as fast as a pullout ramp trailer, which we also sell a few of. But, once you run one, you'll never touch a ramp again.

ah, interesting. from the picture that looked like a damper but it's actually a long ram hydraulic jack, like on an engine hoist. i can see why the electric upgrade would be popular.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

ah, interesting. from the picture that looked like a damper but it's actually a long ram hydraulic jack, like on an engine hoist. i can see why the electric upgrade would be popular.

it is... but it's like power windows. If you use your trailer 3 times a day, get the E/T very quick and powerful and goes up and down in about 8 seconds. if you use it 3 times a year... get the manual. takes about 45 seconds to tilt it up on level ground, which is still much faster than pulling out and locating a pair of ramps. Plus, when you are done, you just let it down in about 5 seconds, trip the tongue latches and go. with ramps... you still have another couple of minutes to heft them back up and put them away.

So.. twice as fast to load or unload. did a comparison test many times and it ALWAYS wins.

 

[lostcause]

i kind of got sidetracked by shiny pictures & stuff. it's the crow in me coming out. but anyways, one other thing about the initial trailer you posted pictures of:

make sure to determine which camp you are in when it comes to tires and wheels. that trailer uses 14.5" tires and open center rims, often called dayton rims. many people are content with those tires and wheels, but there are many who think that they are the work of satan himself. being a hudson trailer those are obviously commercial trailer axles and not recycled mobile home axles, but even still, a lot of people have issues with that whole style of wheel and hub. before you commit, make sure that you won't be bothered with that, because it's not anything you can change easily.

 

[JFS2295]

I do not care of it has 5 miles and the tires look brand new its going to need new ones. Trailer tires take a beating compared to car and truck tires. 60% the cost of new max but if its not long enough do not wast your time. Remember, you need room to balance it and chain it down. Those flop up ramps also severly limit what you can haul.

Chris.

And some get concerned when it has 14.5" tires.

Me, I'd be fine with it, but some won't and the tires for OTR will be expensive.

 

[George2615]

The trailer guy is right. My 20' tilt H&H stays up until I let it down. The H&H like the Hull uses hydraulics to keep it up. The gravity tilt trailers basically use a shock absorber type cylinder to gradually let the bed tilt up or down. In fact my H&H looks just like the Hull trailer. Was even made in Braddyville, IA. Maybe Hull bought out H&H. Here's a pic of mine when purchased in late 05 with manual jack. Second pic is my friends street rod I picked up. With my electric/ hyd. setup it took me about a minute to load it and about 8 minutes to chain it down. A trailer with ramps is fine but for as much as I use mine the manual jack was replaced about 2 months after purchase and I installed my own electric / hydraulic system and piston for quick up and down time. I'll never go back to using ramps again. And as others have said, trailer pricing is a local thing. Basically supply and demand. There are no trailer building companies where I am so prices are higher. Local trailer dealers ship trailers in from out of state and have to tack on shipping charges. I had to buy mine out of state and pick it up to save a few bucks.

 

[milkman636]

It's on a 55/45 bias and we have only 50,000 (Fifty thousand) on the road. You're way off on this one. by the numbers, the axle is a whole whopping 10.8" further forward on an 18 foot deck as you would find on a dovetail 18 foot trailer.... really.

So how far is it from the front of the deck to the centers of your axles? Does the 55/45 bias mean that the axles are centered 55% (118.8") behind the front of the deck on your 18' trailer?

 

[Piston]

Wow!
This thread has DE-RAILED!!!

Thanks to everyone who posted pertinent information