New Kohler Command 20 HP Cub Cadet

[Leo Rabon]

I just purchased a new 2011 GT 2142 Cub Cadet with bagger. $4,200 I have read quite a bit about under hood heat issues with the older CDs and the Kohlers. Does anyone know if CD has corrected this problem? I am sort of a "super maintance" individual and since the temperatures around here are above 90 degrees most of the summer, I am concerned about going 50 hours without an oil change on this air cooled engine that costs $1,600 to replace. I would prefer to change the oil (only) every 5 hours or so until I get a good break-in on the engine and obviously the filter at 20 hours or so. Can anyone tell me what oil (brand and viscosity) Kohler puts in the engines from the factory? Also, I have read about external "oil coolers" that significantly reduce engine oil temperature. Does anyone have any experience with the oil coolers and if so, do you think they are worth the money?

With all of the questions, you may wonder why I purchased the Cub but my extensive research just pointed me to the Cub Cadet as the best buy for what you get. All of the brands have some issues but the Cub still looked like the best.
Thanks
Leo

 

[RandyT]

Kohler uses there own brand of oil made by quacker state in the 10w30 weight. overheating is not normally a engine problem unless the cooling fins get plugged. most overheating problems on mowers is due to the shielding installed by the mower manufacturer obstucting air flow to the engine.

 

[Carl in CT]

Congrats on your new purchase! I had a 1998 Toro/Wheelhorse with a 18hp Kohler Command that ran terribly hot all the time to the point where it melted the plastic coating on the choke and throttle cables and they were routed where they belonged away from the muffler. I always tried to keep the cooling fins clear but it didn't seem to matter. Sometimes I think the hood itself fit too close to the engine and restricted airflow. I never was able to resolve it but other than the cable issues it still ran ok. It did bend 3 of the 4 push rods but I don't know if that had anything to do with the heat. I got the push rods replaced and I put in a whole new fuel system and it ran great so I sold it for a good price.

My new tractor has a Vangaurd engine with an oil cooler which definitely runs cooler. Excessive heat can really mess up a motor so if I were you I would consider getting an oil cooler if they it's not too expensive. Maybe I'm paranoid, others may say they don't do much but if a cooler is cheap it's good piece of mind.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Carl:
Thank you for your thoughts. I just don't like excessive heat in equipment. It will destroy or severly damage it over time. After paying that much money for the CUB and also entering retirement with less $$$$, I don't want to face an engine replacement due to something I could have avoided. Maybe CD and Kohler have rectified some of these issues on the new models since it appears to have been an ongoing issue for a few years. I certainly hope so. The weather here in SC, 6 miles away from Myrtle Beach is generally HOT, HOT, HOT. 98 Degrees this past Sunday. Most likely, I will get the oil cooler at around $150.00 and install it.

Thank You Again
Leo

 

[JTKub]

..I had a 1998 Toro/Wheelhorse with a 18hp Kohler Command that ran terribly hot .

I've used my neighbor's mid 1990's super heavy-duty Garden-Way built Troy-Bilt GT with an 18hp Command and it's the same on that machine. The engine runs SCORCHING hot under the hood and has some seal seepage and oil burning due to this (it's only got ~550hrs).

Leo, I also understand your concerns. My metal hooded 2005 model year 2544 ran hot too, but not to the point of melting stuff under the hood.

I personally do not run regular passenger car oils in my small air cooled stuff. I run heavy-duty, diesel or motorcycle oils ONLY. I personally go "out of the box" and run 15w40 or 5w40 if extreme heat is a concern, but at a minimum, I'd run the Kohler branded 10w30. Supposedly it's a 'motorcycle' type oil.

Joel

 

[micman32]

I use the Kohler brand oil. Seems to work fine. Never had anyproblems and I am at 540+ hours. I blow the fan and fins off regularly.

Michael

 

[JTKub]

I use the Kohler brand oil. Seems to work fine.

From what I understand, the Kohler branded engine oil is excellent stuff. Supposedly it's formulated like a heavy-duty/air-cooled/motorcycle engine oil.

Joel

 

[micman32]

I usually get the "Tune Up" kit for Kohler Command Engines when I get ready for the season.

Michael

 

[DJinAC]

Does anyone use synthetic oil in the engines? I use it in everything I own and with the new tractor coming tomorrow I plan on running synthetic in it once the break in period is up.

 

[rcbe]

Does anyone use synthetic oil in the engines? I use it in everything I own and with the new tractor coming tomorrow I plan on running synthetic in it once the break in period is up.

prolly best to chk your ENGINE manual for recommended oil types/viscosity/etc. It should also tell you if syn oil is OK and when (how many hrs of run time) to use.

 

[savageactor7]

Leo I use Shell Rotella I think it's 15-40 and still looks clean at 50hrs. A lot of the small tractor guys use it...it's highly regarded.

As far as the over heating goes... this is my experience as long as your running along mowing the engine is being air cooled. Heat build up can and did warp engine cowlings when they were shut down and static.

Since I read about one catching fire I always raise the hood on mine when I turn it off. Also once a week or more depending on the pollen count I'll hose down the engine with compressed air, blow out the air cleaner too.

You'll be alright, enjoy your tractor.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Thanks for your reply. I think all of the newer engines run hotter. Currently, I run mine at full throttle while mowing and then when I finish mowing, I open the hood and let it run at 1/2 throttle while running my leaf blower on the engine for 2 or 3 minutes for a good cool-down before shutting the engine off. So far, I have not detected any "hot smell" from the engine at all. The engine itself seems to have quite a bit of cowling around it and will need to be kept well maintained and clean to have a reasonable life and keep the overheating from being a problem. Between my leaf blower and air compressor, it should not be a problem. I sure do love my "CUB".

Leo

 

[savageactor7]

Hey Leo let me ask you about that leaf blower. Do you use it to blow the grass off the top of your deck...is it strong enough to do that?

That's one of the few toys I don't have because I'm not a leaf raker, we jsut cut 'em up here.

However in another forum I read where quite a few guys use their leaf blowers to blow dust of their engines the way we might use canned air to clean the dust from the inside of our computers.

I can't imagine a leaf blower having more concentrated force that an air compressor but truthfully... I dunno. So what's the skinny on that? Thanks

 

[Leo Rabon]

Hello Savage:
I call it a "leaf blower". Mine is "hand held" not the "back pack" and I use it also to blow my concrete drive ways after cutting grass as well as keeping my porches free of leaves and dust. Mine is 170 MPH Wind Speed (2 cycle gas) "at the tip" and yes it will clean cutting decks of the grass in just a minute. I blow off the entire tractor with it and also clear the fan screens along with cooling down the enigne (2 or 3 minutes with the tractor engine running at 1/2 throttle) after a hard run. It works great. If you don't want to get another gas product to deal with, they make some 110 volt electrics that are powerful also (don't purchase battery operated, not enough volume ) from the big box stores. The 110 volt electrics are $50 to $60 and gas "hand held" can go anywhere from $115 up to $200 or so. I would get the highest "wind speed" I could get for the money I wanted to spend. I also use my air comressor for blowing off the tight areas of the tranny and other areas that may not be as accessible with the leaf blower. 90% of the time, I don't even have to get the air compressor as the leaf blower does the job. The leaf blower will not have the "concentrated force" of an air compressor but the total "volume" of air from the leaf blower is more than adequate to do the job. The leaf blower is a "must have" for me.

Take Care
Leo

 

[rcbe]

Savage - Ditto Leo's comments on leaf blower. I have/use one all the time - an electric 120v rig - has plenty of cleaning power for all parts of the tractor.
If you should look at 'em in the stores, chk for highest CFM amoungst the offerings.

 

[Combustix]

have been converting everything over to synthetic. Using Castol's edge, all syn oil. 10-30 so far. After talking with local oil service guy, I'm gonna give it a try. CC 1045 will be next at end of summer.

 

[Gator6x4]

I purchased a 2084 Cub Cadet in 1993. Brought it home mowed the yard one time and changed the oil to Mobil 1. Has mowed the yard at least one time a week in the summer every since. The governor malfunctioned one time and it really got hot. The synthetic oil in my opinion saved the engine. If you have an old hot plate and two old pans, put regular oil in one pan and synthetic oil in the other and set the pans on the hot plate, watch the oil and see which one you think will perform best in an engine that runs on the hot side.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Gator: Thanks for the reply. I am giving that some serious thought. I will probably wait until break-in is done, 50 hours or so. I do think the synthetics have a lot of value.

Take Care
Leo

 

[savageactor7]

Hey thanks for the input on the leaf blowers...I'm gonna get the highest hand held, gas, cfm husky makes then, from a dealer.

I suppose I can use it to blow the wet leaves out of all our swale holes too. Right now I rake 'em ...an don't mind doing it but the torn rotor cuff in taking it's toll.

...very flat ground here so vigilance is demanded.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Savage: IMHP. You might want to try a friends blower first (torn rotor cuff). The hand held can get a little heavy after a while (plus the vibration). They make some small lightweight back packs that may be better for you. With a back pack all you are holding (with the hands) is the blower tube.

Take Care
Leo